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Old 09-06-2012, 08:17 AM
  #7576  
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
Looks like a picked the wrong time to ask about turnbuckles.
Yes, if you change the ballcups you need to change the ballstuds. I can't say one way or the other if the turnbuckles are long enough, but after pricing some stuff out and chatting with a few other racers about it, the consensus was that the best route is the lunsford kit as they have done the design work already- it's a bolt on kit. If you want to measure and source some stuff on you own you may be able to save a few bucks though. We're running the stock stuff still.

On to the gearing. It's something I noticed running 17.5 blinky. Running 75/27 I had more snap off the line than with a 72/26- numerically almost the same. The conclusion I made was that a larger spur drove with more torque than the smaller one due to more leverage. Maybe it's the minute difference in fdr, but either way what I noticed doesn't change- for the same ratio (or as close as possible) a larger spur has more torque and a smaller spur drives smoother with slightly more top end. So while my reasoning may have been off (and sorry if it was), the end result is exactly what I stated.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by discgolferlee View Post
I am going to be running on carpet and was given a setup from a friend and wanted to doublecheck that my used buggy came with stock springs.
the suggested setup for our track was
Heres me and my car 9 months ago.

Sorry about the quality its a bit hard to watch. I will be getting better indoor video this season

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mx-2SLhKZMo&feature=plcp

Im using David Poulters astro setup which I found really good.

Sorry can't get the link to petitrc to work for the setup
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Keeping the same ratio with different spur sizes does make a difference, mainly because you are moving the motor fore / aft. To say changing the size of the spur alone, while retaining the the ratio will make a difference on how the motor operates (torque / rpm) I believe the gains are pretty slim. Only way to prove it is on a dyno. I believe when Jonny5 said leverage, he meant moving the motor back..

Also Smaller spurs really do not reduce rotating mass as you have to change to a heavier "alloy" pinions. Not much gain there.

What are your thoughts? My .02.

People are arguing things I never claimed. I responded only to this statement:

"Try a 75 pinion also, the larger spur gear, even with the same ratio as a smaller spur, will generate more torque due to it having more leverage."


That given equal gear ratios, one configuration could not "generate more torque" than the other.

Never argued there was no effect on the vehicle in choosing one over the other. In fact I stated that there were other benefits which might cause one to choose one over the other. Whatever the benefits, they are not the result of generating more torque. That's all.

I attempted to be clear and concise on that. People are reading in things that are not there.
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by parallelfish View Post
People are arguing things I never claimed. I responded only to this statement:

"Try a 75 pinion also, the larger spur gear, even with the same ratio as a smaller spur, will generate more torque due to it having more leverage."


That given equal gear ratios, one configuration could not "generate more torque" than the other.

Never argued there was no effect on the vehicle in choosing one over the other. In fact I stated that there were other benefits which might cause one to choose one over the other. Whatever the benefits, they are not the result of generating more torque. That's all.

I attempted to be clear and concise on that. People are reading in things that are not there.
Sorry man, no argument. Just observations, and thoughts based on Jonny5 's response. No biggie
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:21 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys. The best advise I could give myself would be to do the work, figure it out on my own, and learn from the experience. Which I do most of the time.

But I have to tell you reading the forums, asking some questions, and getting some advise has saved me a lot of trial and error and mistakes, so I can focus more time on racing!

One question though.. Should there be crush tubes between the bearings in the rear hub? Manual does not show them. I converted to the Tresrey rear hexes and used the silver an copper shims that came with the kit, but I noticed if I tighten the wheel too much the axle binds and is notchy. This only occurs on one side. I loosened up the play between the hex and the hub and that seems to help. Bearings seems fine and smooth. Has anyone taken out the shims so the pin sits up against the hex? That way it would get rid of the pressure on the bearings and hub when I tighten the wheel.

Last edited by zipperfoot; 09-06-2012 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
Thanks for all the help guys. The best advise I could give myself would be to do the work, figure it out on my own, and learn from the experience. Which I do most of the time.

But I have to tell you reading the forums, asking some questions, and getting some advise has saved me a lot of trial and error and mistakes, so I can focus more time on racing!

One question though.. Should there be crush tubes between the bearings in the rear hub? Manual does not show them. I converted to the Tresrey rear hexes and used the silver an copper shims that came with the kit, but I noticed if I tighten the wheel too much the axle binds and is notchy. This only occurs on one side. I loosened up the play between the hex and the hub and that seems to help. Bearings seems fine and smooth. Has anyone taken out the shims so the pin sits up against the hex? That way it would get rid of the pressure on the bearings and hub when I tighten the wheel.
Not a crush tube, but maybe some shims. On the aluminum hubs I needed .7mm of shims to get it right. Not sure on the plastic hubs though. The ones I used are from Kyosho and come in a bag with .1, .2 and .3mm shims with a 5mm ID.

Edit: Just to clarify, the shims go on the axle between the two bearings. This allows the step on the axle to "crush" the shims onto the inner bearing race on the outer bearing. Then the wheel can be tightened as much as you want without binding the bearings at all.

Last edited by Jonny5; 09-06-2012 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:42 PM
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Default DEx210

I just purchased a used DEX210. I will be racing at a clay indoor track in the 17.5 class. Can someone help me out with a setup and what motor would be best for the class. I may want to run boosted and non.

Thanks
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:02 PM
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whats everybody using for a rear kick up plate im using 3 toe in and 1.5 kick up anybody using 3 and 3? and cant find the tranny build vid. whats durangos home page web site thanks for the help.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:57 PM
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Hey, I'm pulling the trigger tomorrow or Saturday. Please help me with my shopping cart!
Will be racing carpet only, so I thinking:
Associated Reedy Sonic 5.5 Modified Not sure on esc yet
Gear diff set (which oil?)
CF steering plate
People mentioned here aluminum RF hinge pin holder (whats the # ?)
Losa6016 ball cups (need to modify something ?)
And of course the usual: Suspension arms, hubs
Anything else? Thanks!
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR View Post
Hey, I'm pulling the trigger tomorrow or Saturday. Please help me with my shopping cart!
Will be racing carpet only, so I thinking:
Associated Reedy Sonic 5.5 Modified Not sure on esc yet
Gear diff set (which oil?)
CF steering plate
People mentioned here aluminum RF hinge pin holder (whats the # ?)
Losa6016 ball cups (need to modify something ?)
And of course the usual: Suspension arms, hubs
Anything else? Thanks!
Ive never raced on carpet but 5.5 seems like a lot of motor for a buggy. For the gear diff, AE black grease seems to be the ticket. Go back several pages it was dicussed. The only rf hinge pin holder in alumnum i am aware of is sold by Tresrey.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by zylstra View Post
whats everybody using for a rear kick up plate im using 3 toe in and 1.5 kick up anybody using 3 and 3? and cant find the tranny build vid. whats durangos home page web site thanks for the help.
Durango's home page? Are you serious? Theres this website called Google. Should answer all your questions. Or you can try www.team-durango.com
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by zylstra View Post
whats everybody using for a rear kick up plate im using 3 toe in and 1.5 kick up anybody using 3 and 3? and cant find the tranny build vid. whats durangos home page web site thanks for the help.
I prefer 0 kick up in the rear
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by murky123 View Post
I prefer 0 kick up in the rear
+1
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR View Post
Hey, I'm pulling the trigger tomorrow or Saturday. Please help me with my shopping cart!
Will be racing carpet only, so I thinking:
Associated Reedy Sonic 5.5 Modified Not sure on esc yet
Gear diff set (which oil?)
CF steering plate
People mentioned here aluminum RF hinge pin holder (whats the # ?)
Losa6016 ball cups (need to modify something ?)
And of course the usual: Suspension arms, hubs
Anything else? Thanks!
Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
Ive never raced on carpet but 5.5 seems like a lot of motor for a buggy. For the gear diff, AE black grease seems to be the ticket. Go back several pages it was dicussed. The only rf hinge pin holder in alumnum i am aware of is sold by Tresrey.
Thanks, the one I tried had a 6.5 and the owner mentioned he was considering a 5.5...super fast! For me, comming from off road it was like watching a race on fast forward!
Anyone regarding losi ball cups and hinge pin holder?
Any weak points I'm missing?
Thanks
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR View Post
Thanks, the one I tried had a 6.5 and the owner mentioned he was considering a 5.5...super fast! For me, comming from off road it was like watching a race on fast forward!
Anyone regarding losi ball cups and hinge pin holder?
Any weak points I'm missing?
Thanks
Here's the RF block we use: http://www.tresrey-usa.com/tresrey-a...ex210-dest210/
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