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Old 08-31-2012, 04:37 AM   #7501
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From what I have been told the composite +8mm chassis is going to be the same chassis as the RTR. Looks like you will need the RTR body for it also because of the bracing in the front. I'll wait for the aluminum +8mm.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:13 AM   #7502
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me too alittle more weight makes it more stable.and it looks cool
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:57 AM   #7503
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Does anyone have an eta for that
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:39 PM   #7504
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Just finished the build. Very impressed with the quality except the ball cups. Running the motor wires cleanly for the rm4 set up proved a challenge.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:16 AM   #7505
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness View Post
From what I have been told the composite +8mm chassis is going to be the same chassis as the RTR. Looks like you will need the RTR body for it also because of the bracing in the front. I'll wait for the aluminum +8mm.

I think the stock body fits with elongated front holes.

Mid sept the RTRs are planned for release so hopefully around that time.

No official pic of the chassis TD320163 but on oople and TD site you can see it

Jonny5 you say you are no more than 3 pads from front MM stop. What size are the pads?
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:41 AM   #7506
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Johnny,

When you guys are running the standard chassis, where do you normally run the battery? Do you run it up against the mm batt stop? RM batt stop?

Thanks looking for a starting point.
I run the RM setup. but I removed all the battery stops.
I have used velcro on my chassis and shorty's , that way I have no need for battery foams and I can put my shorty everywhere I want .
All the way up against the servo or all the way in the back against the tranny, or something in between.

My track can change grip levels within the hour. The way I described above I can use the full potential of the weight distribution of this buggy.

we must not forget that this buggy is the most balanced buggy on the market and this weight distribution is absolutely one of its best features.

I have also drilled 2 holes with a body reamer in my stock batterybrace.
When I but my shorty all the way in the back against the tranny, the + and - tabs will disappear under the batterybrace, with those 2 holes I can put the plugs in the tabs.
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:59 AM   #7507
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When do you have the bat foward and rear? Whats the track like then? What will it do Fwd and Rear
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:20 AM   #7508
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when a blue groove is coming up and there is high traction I will move the battery more forward.

when it is very dusty, low grip or when the track is blown out I move the battery more in the back
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:56 AM   #7509
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I think the stock body fits with elongated front holes.

Mid sept the RTRs are planned for release so hopefully around that time.

No official pic of the chassis TD320163 but on oople and TD site you can see it

Jonny5 you say you are no more than 3 pads from front MM stop. What size are the pads?
Guess I should have clarified that, but when I reference battery pads I am referring to AE pads as they are most common.
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:22 PM   #7510
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Has anyone ever tried the stock set up?

I always like to set my buggies to factory specs, try it first, and work from there. But with the springs included in the kit and the six hole pistons, the suspension is WAY too soft, and pretty much un-drivable. I used Losi 35 wt oil which according to Durango's chart is the same as the 450 cts they recommend in the manual.

Does anyone have a spring and oil set up I can use with the six hole pistons 1.2 or 1.3?
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:08 PM   #7511
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Has anyone ever tried the stock set up?

I always like to set my buggies to factory specs, try it first, and work from there. But with the springs included in the kit and the six hole pistons, the suspension is WAY too soft, and pretty much un-drivable. I used Losi 35 wt oil which according to Durango's chart is the same as the 450 cts they recommend in the manual.

Does anyone have a spring and oil set up I can use with the six hole pistons 1.2 or 1.3?
The main reason we started running 4 hole pistons is that the car bottoms too easily with 6 holes. You could go way up on oil, but that's more of a band aid. Had the car handling well through the turns with 6 holes, but bottomed even on small doubles. It's pretty easy to close off some holes in the stock pistons- CA glue a toothpick into the hole, trim it off flush on both sides, then put a drop of CA on both sides of the piston to cap the holes off.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:28 PM   #7512
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
The main reason we started running 4 hole pistons is that the car bottoms too easily with 6 holes. You could go way up on oil, but that's more of a band aid. Had the car handling well through the turns with 6 holes, but bottomed even on small doubles. It's pretty easy to close off some holes in the stock pistons- CA glue a toothpick into the hole, trim it off flush on both sides, then put a drop of CA on both sides of the piston to cap the holes off.
I see that just about everyone runs 4 hole even the team guys. Its a known issue, so why dont they add them to the kit? or sell them as an option?

Maybe they should add some toothpicks to the kit!
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:49 PM   #7513
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
The main reason we started running 4 hole pistons is that the car bottoms too easily with 6 holes. You could go way up on oil, but that's more of a band aid. Had the car handling well through the turns with 6 holes, but bottomed even on small doubles. It's pretty easy to close off some holes in the stock pistons- CA glue a toothpick into the hole, trim it off flush on both sides, then put a drop of CA on both sides of the piston to cap the holes off.
I was running pistons with closed off holes but recently i picked up some of durango's new 4 hole tapered pistons featuring a 1.0mm hole so the car doesnt bottom out as easy,i just tested new layout today and my 210 buggy was screamin'
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:52 PM   #7514
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So what oils are you guys running with 4 hole 1.2mm pistons? Was thinking 30 frt/25 rear.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:56 PM   #7515
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So what oils are you guys running with 4 hole 1.2mm pistons? Was thinking 30 frt/25 rear.
I was 32.5 frt. 30 rear running same pistons with shorty pack
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