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Old 07-20-2012, 08:44 AM   #6886
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Default Chirping diff

Hi,

I just rebuilt my diff, new rings, thrust bearing and added ceramic balls. I have it built right with the smaller thrust washer out and pre-compressed the spring.

I washed all the parts with brake cleaner befor and broke it in after assembly.

I have it so tight it is almost a spool.

My only other thought is that it is not supposed to be built with ceramic balls, maybe they slip too much. I haven't seen them for sale on the durango site so this came to mind.

Can a team driver verify this.
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:28 AM   #6887
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
So I guess I'll have to splurge on a full spring set before Wednesday (even at my pricing its a god deal, but alot of money for the 16 pairs of springs), what I was trying to avoid but it sounds like the stockers are out of wack for rear motor on dirt. Where are people getting these 4 hole pistons, or should I drill my blank ones, or can you just fill 2 holes up? So I should make 4x1.2 and 4x1.3 and run 25 and 30wt oil, along with 3rm and dark green and dark blue springs it should be better? I still have those pistons in my goodie bag so I'll work on that when I have time (I'm working every day until the big race) Thanks for the help guys
Think of it this way. The stock springs r 4 MM, so when u move the motor back u add weight to the back so u need to compensate by using a stiffener spring. Vice versa in the front so u need a lighter spring. A front spring set would be a good investment, but if u were going for one spring , I would do dk grn.
4 holes are made a few different ways, but most just put a drop of CA in 2 of the 6 hole pistons to close them up. Others use a soldering iron to melt. The holes shut, I use 5 minute epoxy. Any will work
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:37 AM   #6888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moth898 View Post
Hi,

I just rebuilt my diff, new rings, thrust bearing and added ceramic balls. I have it built right with the smaller thrust washer out and pre-compressed the spring.

I washed all the parts with brake cleaner befor and broke it in after assembly.

I have it so tight it is almost a spool.

My only other thought is that it is not supposed to be built with ceramic balls, maybe they slip too much. I haven't seen them for sale on the durango site so this came to mind.

Can a team driver verify this.
I've built both my DEX210's with ceramic diff balls and one of them with ceramic thrust bearings as well and both are as smooth as butter and don't slip.
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:14 AM   #6889
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I've built both my DEX210's with ceramic diff balls and one of them with ceramic thrust bearings as well and both are as smooth as butter and don't slip.
I'm glad your work good....but that doesn't answer my question
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:22 AM   #6890
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I'm glad your work good....but that doesn't answer my question
your question was is it supposed to be built with ceramic balls, I just said that I've used them with good results. Sorry for trying to help..........
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:25 AM   #6891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moth898 View Post
Hi,

I just rebuilt my diff, new rings, thrust bearing and added ceramic balls. I have it built right with the smaller thrust washer out and pre-compressed the spring.

I washed all the parts with brake cleaner befor and broke it in after assembly.

I have it so tight it is almost a spool.

My only other thought is that it is not supposed to be built with ceramic balls, maybe they slip too much. I haven't seen them for sale on the durango site so this came to mind.

Can a team driver verify this.
Is there any slipping at all?
The only thing I can think of is that it might. E the slipper pads are slipping.
Sounds like your diff is to tight.which shouldn't make any noise.
That would be my only guess though.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:00 AM   #6892
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If I remember correctly, when I ran this car... I wasn't able to run ceramics either. I only run high quality carbide in my diffs now. You are able to run a looser diff before it starts to slip than you can with ceramics, and they last 95% as long, ESPECIALLY in the dex210 diff, which lasts forever anyway. And the LAST thing the 210 needs, is an overly tight diff... it needs as much steering as it can get. I always run ceramics in my thrust however.
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:07 AM   #6893
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I had a problem with diff slip this weekend at the JConcept indoor nats. High bite clay track. I started off with RM4 configuration and spent all practice and the 1st round of qualifying trying to figure out why I couldn't stop the tranny from slipping. I could not slip the diff in my had but as soon as I put the car on track, it sounded like it slipped and I couldn't clear 2 sets of triples that everyone else could. I switched to RM3 and all my problems were solved. Didn't rebuild the diff or change any parts other than the necessary idler gear. I can't explain why but there seems to be some problem with RM4.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:14 PM   #6894
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Is it possible to run 12mm hexes on the 210?
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:45 PM   #6895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moth898 View Post
Hi,

I just rebuilt my diff, new rings, thrust bearing and added ceramic balls. I have it built right with the smaller thrust washer out and pre-compressed the spring.

I washed all the parts with brake cleaner befor and broke it in after assembly.

I have it so tight it is almost a spool.

My only other thought is that it is not supposed to be built with ceramic balls, maybe they slip too much. I haven't seen them for sale on the durango site so this came to mind.

Can a team driver verify this.
I am no team driver but there are quite a few ppl including me having trouble with ceramics as diff balls. Search in the same thread and you will find many. The diff barks a lot even with any amount of tightening. The best upgrade is to get the bfast kit or least the diff balls.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:26 PM   #6896
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
If I remember correctly, when I ran this car... I wasn't able to run ceramics either. I only run high quality carbide in my diffs now. You are able to run a looser diff before it starts to slip than you can with ceramics, and they last 95% as long, ESPECIALLY in the dex210 diff, which lasts forever anyway. And the LAST thing the 210 needs, is an overly tight diff... it needs as much steering as it can get. I always run ceramics in my thrust however.
This.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
I am no team driver but there are quite a few ppl including me having trouble with ceramics as diff balls. Search in the same thread and you will find many. The diff barks a lot even with any amount of tightening. The best upgrade is to get the bfast kit or least the diff balls.
And this. +1 for the BFast kits. Their balls are of excellent quality. I've said it many times in here, but we need to replace outdrives before the balls need replacing. And it's super smooth from start to finish.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:33 PM   #6897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
So I guess I'll have to splurge on a full spring set before Wednesday (even at my pricing its a god deal, but alot of money for the 16 pairs of springs), what I was trying to avoid but it sounds like the stockers are out of wack for rear motor on dirt. Where are people getting these 4 hole pistons, or should I drill my blank ones, or can you just fill 2 holes up? So I should make 4x1.2 and 4x1.3 and run 25 and 30wt oil, along with 3rm and dark green and dark blue springs it should be better? I still have those pistons in my goodie bag so I'll work on that when I have time (I'm working every day until the big race) Thanks for the help guys
You can drill the blank ones that came with the kit or...saw this on another thread. I've tried it and it works great. Take a toothpick and shove it in the hole. Take a side cutter and nip the toothpick on both sides. Get some super thin ca and glue them in there. the toothpick fills the hole and the ca sorta acts as gap filler while keeping them in there.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:36 PM   #6898
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Hey kwiksi can you answer my question about the hexes? I'm going to get a 210 so I'm sure I will have questions cause nobody around here runs one.

Thanks for the help
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:43 PM   #6899
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Yes you can run 12mm hexs, the jconcepts b4 rears fit.
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:54 PM   #6900
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Yes you can run 12mm hexs, the jconcepts b4 rears fit.
Thanks, do the Avids fit? I have a set that I was going to put on my B4.1 on the front and rear.
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