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Old 04-01-2012, 08:12 PM
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Default 17.5 blinky gearing

Hey I'm running a Tekin RS with 17.5 D3 in blinky buggy and I'm trying to get alittle more speed out of the thing down the straightaways. Currently I'm running 32/75 and I've read about going to a 69 or 70 spur but I dont know if i should do that or just go with a different pinion first. Any thoughts? If I do go for the smaller spur what range of pinion should i try.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Would this be a copy of or similar to the piece Jorn used at the Reedy Race with the extension spacer by the steering?
similar, not the same
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:10 PM
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What are some ways to dial in more on-power steering?
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
What are some ways to dial in more on-power steering?


anti squat is the most effective
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
anti squat is the most effective
I'm already at 3. I have to redo my battery wires but then I can move the shorty pack more forward, which will definitely help.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by slick24 View Post
Hey I'm running a Tekin RS with 17.5 D3 in blinky buggy and I'm trying to get alittle more speed out of the thing down the straightaways. Currently I'm running 32/75 and I've read about going to a 69 or 70 spur but I dont know if i should do that or just go with a different pinion first. Any thoughts? If I do go for the smaller spur what range of pinion should i try.
Def go to a RW 69 spur. Start withg the same pinion and go from there. 75 spur is not gonna get you the speed you want.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Def go to a RW 69 spur. Start withg the same pinion and go from there. 75 spur is not gonna get you the speed you want.
Alright thank you
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Looks like Daytons old car! (Signature gearbox box fix)
Yep and it still seems to work good ..
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:30 AM
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Are people using anti squat in the rear or front .I have the tresrey front bulk head and it has none to use ..
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bronc4now View Post
Are people using anti squat in the rear or front .I have the tresrey front bulk head and it has none to use ..
There is no ant-squat built into the front bulkhead.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
I'm already at 3. I have to redo my battery wires but then I can move the shorty pack more forward, which will definitely help.

FYI 1mm spacers under the block is equal to 1.5*, i broke my 3* but shimmed the 1.5 to be the same. I bet if you shimmed yours up another .5mm it may just be enough to get you where you want. I forgot to lock your number donw the other day send me a TXT when you get a chance.

To add to this, using weight to give you more on power steering will also give you more off power steering since it is weight and will actually probably give you too much off power since the weight goes from way up to way down under braking. on power steering needs to be mechanically adjusted.

Last edited by MantisWorx; 04-02-2012 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bronc4now View Post
Are people using anti squat in the rear or front .I have the tresrey front bulk head and it has none to use ..

Front would be caster, rear anti-squat.

Last edited by MantisWorx; 04-02-2012 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Autocratic View Post
There is no ant-squat built into the front bulkhead.
the stock one did have droop screw flats .

Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Front would be caster, rear anti-squat.
Maybe I'm mixed up I ment droop screws that are in the arms ..that's how you adjust anti squat ?

The reason I'm concerned about the front is in a crash witch I do often is the shock piston takes all the load and I'm sure it will break soon and my shock shaft will just pop out..
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bronc4now View Post
the stock one did have droop screw flats .



Maybe I'm mixed up I ment droop screws that are in the arms ..that's how you adjust anti squat ?

The reason I'm concerned about the front is in a crash witch I do often is the shock piston takes all the load and I'm sure it will break soon and my shock shaft will just pop out..

Droop screws are for adjusting the droop and have nothing to do with antisquat.

Most everyone either took their screws out or has them screwed all the way and runs full droop in the front and rear...you shouldn't have any issues with the piston breaking.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bronc4now View Post
the stock one did have droop screw flats .



Maybe I'm mixed up I ment droop screws that are in the arms ..that's how you adjust anti squat ?

The reason I'm concerned about the front is in a crash witch I do often is the shock piston takes all the load and I'm sure it will break soon and my shock shaft will just pop out..
The droop screws in the arms are for adjusting droop/shock length and has nothing to do with caster or kickup. If using the Tresrey front bulkhead you need to add/subtract limiters inside the shock to adjust droop.

The 210 has no adjustment for changing the kickup, which is the equivalent of adjusting anti-squat in the rear. However you can easily adjust caster by swapping the inserts in the front caster blocks (where the steering arm mounts). In general, more caster (leaning further back) decreases entry steering and increases exit steering, while less caster (leaning further forward) increases entry steering and decreases exit steering.
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