flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

IMO, the shorty pack works better with this car, than the one it was designed for..

murky123

it all depends on what soil you race.
the dex feels a bit heavy in the rear but it is where it gets its rear traction from..
I like my dex heavy with fullsize stickpacks, I get the feeling when I make it lighter ( using short lipo's ) I loose a bit of traction.

I run on hardpacked low/mid grip tracks.

I do not use extra weights or what so ever.

so for me it is yes to fullsize and no to shorty's

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

+1. My experience was that the car in RM configuration was a little ass-heavy with a regular pack (maybe a lower MAH pack would have helped me in hindsight but only have 5000mah packs).

With the Shorty mounted at the front it jumps level and I can really drive it hard. I didn't want to buy yet another lipo-format but heard so much about them in this car that it seemed worth it.
Got a 65C 4000mah shorty from pro-match for $60.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

I've been running "shorty" packs from my initial build. The biggest thing is the shorty allows for weight to be added throughout the chassis without adding to overall chassis weight. It's a balance thing.

bronc4now

iTrader: (43)

My dingo video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLH57...e_gdata_player

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

Looks like Daytons old car! (Signature gearbox box fix)

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

A DEX210 Driver and Swans fan. Didn't think I'd come across another

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Had a first day run with this car in RM4 stock springs and no upgrades. I am using this pack from hobbyking US http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html.

Also tried it with a protek 70C shorty. It was less punchy than the nanotech. Car RTR weight with those 2 is around 1590grams which is nice for the softer stock springs I thought. 8.5 murfdogg -5 endbell and 10 boost on the xerun geared 76/26.

Frankly I am amazed at the durability of this car.

The only issue is the stock spur is crap. I could not get the mesh to work, the car would only roll a few inches, so switched out with a rw spur and rw pinion and the car is whisper quiet.... The way this thing handles a badly timed jump is AMAZING I can just go on and on without worrying about upsetting it at all!!!

Durability is good too, took many tumbles, was tagged twice by heavy sctes thrown around by kids, took it all in its stride .

I have to rebuild the diff though. I got the car used and it had acer ceramics in the diff and on full power the diff barks a lot. I will probably end up putting the stock tungsten balls back in and sand the rings. My second chassis is being built for RM3 but hit a roadblock. My box did not have the shock piston screws in it so ordered extras from speedtechrc....

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

The stock diff balls are steel and not carbide. I tried ceramics in my diff and it barked no matter how tight I made the diff. Threw in some BFast tungsten diff balls and butta smooth.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Where can I buy them?

Edit : Found em Thanks 2 buck shipping rocks!!

On another subject, what parts are needed to use B4 style rear wheels? I already have the front axles from tresrey to use b4 fronts. I am assuming this cone is needed http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eel-Cone-Set-2.

Randy Pike had mentioned that you need a spacer too. Does anyone know what part number for that and the pin?

fifi

You need the parts from the 410 or 410R



the pin
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310135

the spacer
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD712003

the wheel cone
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD714002

the 410R the pin was 1.6 X 14(TD310135)

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

I ran the Tresrey slipper hubs and topshaft with a JC Silent Speed spur gear today. Top notch and whisper quiet.

I also ran the flipped rear A arm mod today. It was on a smallish indoor track but it seemed to calm the car down. I have felt the 210 to be a little skittish like the previous B4. The mod adds roughly about 7mm of length. I will be running on a large outdoor track next Sat and should see how it does.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

I too flipped my arms yesterday. I ran it like that in the last qualifier, to see the difference. I have the rear hub spaced 2/2, same spring , just more tension to get the height. Axle to axle, identical to my buddies 22. Now , it did a few things. Made the car longer, lazier, better at high speed sweepers. My fast individual lap, increased by .6 of a second, overall time fell off by 6 seconds due to altercations with moving obstacles on the track. I'm going to modify the ARM with new holes to keep the wheelbase, but keep the shocks foward.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Thanks man you just saved me a hundred bucks in tires

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

Here's a vid of my 210 from last nights club race at my local track. SDRC in San Diego, CA. Med grip, clay. I was running Super soft AKA Vektor fronts/AKA foam in front and ver1 MC Suburbs in rear with PL closed cell foam. Sauced front and rear with Trackstar Gold. I normally run either Rebars or Vektors but was doing some compound testing.

+ YouTube Video

I had a pretty solid first run (car was really good) and a DNF in the second run due to stupidity and qualified 3rd for the night. Car was stellar in the qualifier, not as good in the main. Track got a little bumpier as the night went on due the Intermediate SC classes (both 2wd and 4wd) not being very good at timing all the jumps and hammering the faces of most of them. Overall my car is really good there....I could use just a touch more mid corner steering and I have a few things I'm going to test soon.

My car needs a diff rebuild and new shock seals....I did a shock "rebuild" before the first qualifier and by the mains there was oil all over the lower shock cups The car was definitely not as good in the main. TQ was a +10 Kyosho and 2nd was a +8 B4.1....... on a big track like this, I need to try a long chassis We'll see....

I'll post up my qualifier as soon as its done processing