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Old 01-30-2012, 08:07 AM
  #3946  
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I'm glad I wasn't the only one that missed what he meant...
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
We talkin about the girl?
The girl extends other parts...but not the buggy chassis. SCHWING!
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:16 AM
  #3948  
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Unless Jorn changed it, his chassis is not stock......Hupo, Jorn, Travis, Billy and Carson were all running a longer chassis for this race.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by hopsing
Unless Jorn changed it, his chassis is not stock......Hupo, Jorn, Travis, Billy and Carson were all running a longer chassis for this race.
Sweet! Was there any other option parts being tested?
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:28 AM
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Hupo's 210 with the new PL bulldog body...... forgot to ask Daniel Adams from PL the availability but it looks pretty good and I'm not a big fan of cab forward bodies. And yes, his car is long.

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Old 01-30-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Sweet! Was there any other option parts being tested?

Hupo had the aluminum rear hubs in his car and they look sick! Other than that, I didn't notice anything different.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:40 AM
  #3952  
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February 15th for the bodies.

Originally Posted by hopsing
Hupo's 210 with the new PL bulldog body...... forgot to ask Daniel Adams from PL the availability but it looks pretty good and I'm not a big fan of cab forward bodies. And yes, his car is long.

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Old 01-30-2012, 08:40 AM
  #3953  
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Originally Posted by Slash'em1
Steve Amain has a CF steering link in stock.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Steering-Rack
Thanks Tom, untill I get my new parts I just fit an SC10 center link in the 210. It's a little shorter n had to shave it a little but I will atleast be able to make a race next weekend.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by hopsing
Hupo's 210 with the new PL bulldog body...... forgot to ask Daniel Adams from PL the availability but it looks pretty good and I'm not a big fan of cab forward bodies. And yes, his car is long.

I heard somewhere else that they will be available mid Feb. I have the Jconcepts on there now and looks cool but the Proline looks better.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:43 AM
  #3955  
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How did Luttz do in 2wd buggy?
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Posvar
How did Luttz do in 2wd buggy?
He ended up 4th overall in Open 2wd after A2..... there was no A3 for this race. His car looked good and he was running the standard "short" chassis.

Last edited by hopsing; 01-30-2012 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:05 AM
  #3957  
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I know I've read about this a few times in this thread, but going to discuss again. I ran the 210 for the first time this weekend and could not get a full run in due to diff issues. Unfortunately, I did not take my snap-ring pliers with me so I couldn't flip the circlip at the track. When I was running it the rounds side was up and that did not work. So, I flipped the circlip so the flat side is up but found when breaking in with drill that the diff had the same problem. It works for ashort time then "clicks" and the diff no longer works. I monkeyed arond with it for a while and found that if I reversed my pliers and spread the circlip after install it would stay for the drill break-in while adjusting speeds and directions. Also, I made sure the diff was tight prrior to break-in and did not tighten again as tightening the diff seems to be the cause of the circlip shift (click sound).

Anyone have any suggestions on how to insure I won't have diff issues again.? The car is fantastic when I can run it, but right now I can't even finish a heat.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Heavy B
I know I've read about this a few times in this thread, but going to discuss again. I ran the 210 for the first time this weekend and could not get a full run in due to diff issues. Unfortunately, I did not take my snap-ring pliers with me so I couldn't flip the circlip at the track. When I was running it the rounds side was up and that did not work. So, I flipped the circlip so the flat side is up but found when breaking in with drill that the diff had the same problem. It works for ashort time then "clicks" and the diff no longer works. I monkeyed arond with it for a while and found that if I reversed my pliers and spread the circlip after install it would stay for the drill break-in while adjusting speeds and directions. Also, I made sure the diff was tight prrior to break-in and did not tighten again as tightening the diff seems to be the cause of the circlip shift (click sound).

Anyone have any suggestions on how to insure I won't have diff issues again.? The car is fantastic when I can run it, but right now I can't even finish a heat.

Definitely put a new circlip in the next time around..... and when you install make sure the flat side is up and that you squeeze the clip the absolute minimum when installing it. Then take a flat head screwdriver and twist in the open end of the clip to push it outward into the groove to make sure its in all the way. Check the diff tech tip article on Team Durango's site for excellent build tips.

And don't forget to make sure you have the thrust washers in correctly as well.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:34 AM
  #3959  
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Originally Posted by hopsing
Definitely put a new circlip in the next time around..... and when you install make sure the flat side is up and that you squeeze the clip the absolute minimum when installing it. Then take a flat head screwdriver and twist in the open end of the clip to push it outward into the groove to make sure its in all the way. Check the diff tech tip article on Team Durango's site for excellent build tips.

And don't forget to make sure you have the thrust washers in correctly as well.
I have the thrust washers installed with the small hole to the outside and the bigger hole to the middle. Is that the correct way?
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:38 AM
  #3960  
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Originally Posted by Heavy B
I have the thrust washers installed with the small hole to the outside and the bigger hole to the middle. Is that the correct way?
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...ild-guide-pt1/
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