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Old 11-17-2011, 09:28 AM   #2011
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT View Post
Now that it has been a couple weeks for you guys, where is everyone settling on their front hubs? I have been running 2 on the trailing and 35 for castor. Car has some off power push coming off the sweeper into a 180 and is is a bit twitchy if I get on it to quick. So I was thinking of going to full trailing and cutting the castor down to 25. In the rear I run full toe, hubs forward, and rear shocks out on the bottom. Really helped keep the rear locked in. Good rear traction, but need a bit more steering for the 180's. Thanks...
The Full castor isn't helping your cause nor is the "full" toe. Try 3.5 toe in the rear, 30 caster and add 3/4 oz to the front of the car. Travis has weight9not sure how much) right on his front bulkhead through the opening of his shock tower, as do I.
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:35 AM   #2012
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I finally got my 210 in yesterday and put it together with the exception of shocks and electronics. It was a pleasure to build but I think TD is subsidised by the screw industry. This buggy is 60% screws! I'm waiting for the metal shock preload adjusters and gold shafts to come in today from Amain to finish that part. The plastic quality and tolerances are amazing and this is coming from a B4.1 which is loose and sloppy as a cheap whore. I ordered from Atomic Carbon the lipo strap, steering link and steering brace and should be here next week. I have the kit ball cups and studs on the car to use and if they give me repeated issues then I gold TC5 ballstuds and Kyosho hard ballcups on hand to swap. first race will be Sunday!
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:50 AM   #2013
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Wait till you need to take the diff out. 99% of the screws in the car need to be removed to get the diff out
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:06 AM   #2014
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Good night with the car last night, feeling a lot more comfortable with it! (I started second)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOg-7j2INo0
Car looks good Justin! Do you guys run blinky or boosted? Looking forward to seeing you at Spektrum.

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I'm getting back into the Hobby. I used to race a 1/8 Losi 8 2.0 but after a fire I lost all my RC gear. So I'm starting over. Since my only experience is 1/8th buggy, do you think the 210 would be a good starting point for a 1/10 scale 2wd buggy? Or would a Losi 22 be a better starting point?

*Edit* My LHS doesn't really have much (or anything) for Durangos so I would be doing all parts replacement via web orders. That doesn't really bother me and I wouldn't mind being the only guy on the track with one of these cars. Also, I'm planning on starting up running the 17.5 class at my track.
Can't go wrong with the 210. It seems like you are fairly experienced so the fact that the build is slightly more involved than other buggies shouldn't matter to you. Durability wise thw buggy is as good or better than any other out there, and the tuning option are more extensive than any buggy on the market. Good out of the box setup too for a starting point. The only real downfall right now is parts availability, but they are starting to come in and should be fully available very soon. My lhs got a big order in with some of the more common things, arms and such. You won't be disappointed with it if you go the 210 route.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:09 AM   #2015
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Anybody running the shorty battery and if so where would be a good starting point for locating it (RM3)?
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:17 AM   #2016
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Anyone have a loose outdoor setup. Going to run in RM4 config.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:22 AM   #2017
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
We were at full trailing and 30 degrees on Cush's car with 3.5 toe in the rear. Moving the front axle forward 1mm helped a lot with an entry push, but was stil stable middle out.

Taking some toe out of the rear should help mid corner rotation if your car is too locked down mid corner.
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Originally Posted by triplesix View Post
2 on trailing here, 30deg castor

but i'm on mm4 though, running on carpet.
going from 4 trailing to 2 really brought the front end to life, as well as limiting front droop helped with push on exiting corners.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The Full castor isn't helping your cause nor is the "full" toe. Try 3.5 toe in the rear, 30 caster and add 3/4 oz to the front of the car. Travis has weight9not sure how much) right on his front bulkhead through the opening of his shock tower, as do I.

Thanks guys, The track is still fresh and not sure on how the car naturally performs. Being loose I locked in the rear and lost the front. I will try a happy medium until comes in.......
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:49 AM   #2018
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Wait till you need to take the diff out. 99% of the screws in the car need to be removed to get the diff out
No joke! I was studying it to find a quick painless way to remove it...no luck.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:05 AM   #2019
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Originally Posted by Gwoodrc View Post
Anybody running the shorty battery and if so where would be a good starting point for locating it (RM3)?
I run a shorty with RM3 and run it all the way forward......not against the servo, but against the forward battery holder.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:08 AM   #2020
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Does anyone else have some play between a fullsize lipo and the sidewalls and front to back in RM3/4? What are you using to shim it?
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:10 AM   #2021
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I run a shorty with RM3 and run it all the way forward......not against the servo, but against the forward battery holder.
WOW that seems like alot of weight foward, what rear toe do you run and did you add any other weight to the rear?
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:12 AM   #2022
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Anybody running the shorty battery and if so where would be a good starting point for locating it (RM3)?
I'm running one standard L__i pad in rear and the rest of the void forward. Any standard battery pads will work.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:14 AM   #2023
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I swapped the entire tranny in less than 10 minutes. If you look at the upper braces on top of the chassis simply loose the lower braces screws, remove the motor guard while keeping the wing mounts secured, remove the trans screws, out.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:21 AM   #2024
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WOW that seems like alot of weight foward, what rear toe do you run and did you add any other weight to the rear?
3 deg rear toe, no added weight. Med-high grip clay indoor track

The battery is still actually just rear of the center of the car. Going to the shorty actually gave me some more middle-exit corner steering I needed without sacrificing hardly any noticeable rear traction.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:48 AM   #2025
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Just in time for race 2 of 6 of the ELECTRIC MASTERS SERIES at The Vegas R/C Raceway. http://www.thevegasrcraceway.com

Give em hell, Jonah!
Nice paint job! That body is screaming to have an American Eagle painted on it...The body just looks like a bird.
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