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Old 08-01-2017, 06:02 PM
  #19441  
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
Ebb,

If you want front shock towers go to STRC racing. For 10 bucks you can get carbon fibers front shock towers with aluminum camber mounts.

I use the 44mm TiNi shafts with V3 shock bodies and V1 arms. You don't need limiters if you are not using bladders. You can use the droop screws to limit down travel.


Thanks wally, I actually have a bunch of them lol. I've got front towers from Cream, TeamSR, Exotek and STRC that I've been picking up dirt cheap. I just didn't want to disrupt the geometry Fred was going for in this buggy and I wasn't sure if the type B front towers altered it with their swept back design. I was going to use my CF bits for my other 210 that still uses v1 towers/shocks and an Exotek CF chassis, but now it seems I have more options and I can breathe easier lol. I do also have a couple of the Exotek v3 carbon towers that I was going to save for a rainy day if Fred's designed 210 runs out of type B rear towers.

And I appreciate the shock shaft tip! I do run emulsion now so I should be okay doing this I was just going to save the titanium for my old 210, but perhaps I'll throw them on Fred's when I rebuild my shocks again with this newfound knowledge.
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Old 08-01-2017, 10:33 PM
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Everyone should run a closed bladder system. There is absolutely no situation where emulsion is superior. An open bladder setup is crap so definitely don't try it.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by fredswain
Everyone should run a closed bladder system. There is absolutely no situation where emulsion is superior. An open bladder setup is crap so definitely don't try it.
Well Fred, I am kinda limited lol. I have a bunch of shock cap o-rings but I believe I have a total of zero spare bladders for these shocks. Plus, I find the emulsion shocks easier to fill and get consistent. Maybe not as effective on track but so far I haven't noticed a major difference after going emulsion on all four corners. I am going to give the 44mm titanium trick a shot and see if it improves, worsens or stays the same. Thankfully I have the time and strength to do these things right now lol.
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:29 PM
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Use Losi bladders. They are very easy to build consistent.
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by fredswain
Use Losi bladders. They are very easy to build consistent.
Just any of the losi 22 bladders will do? I might as well try it since I have the shocks to spare and won't need to take anything off the buggy.
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:53 PM
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Not sure if it applies to the tenth scale shocks (it's 2am and my brain is off) but I've only had issues getting Durango shocks properly setup when I try to use the foam volume compensators in the caps with the bladders. Always too much rebound. The line between you much rebound and sucking air due to not having enough shock fluid is very fine.
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan_r
Not sure if it applies to the tenth scale shocks (it's 2am and my brain is off) but I've only had issues getting Durango shocks properly setup when I try to use the foam volume compensators in the caps with the bladders. Always too much rebound. The line between you much rebound and sucking air due to not having enough shock fluid is very fine.
I think for me it's the simplicity of the emulsion that gives it the edge. I don't need to worry about a bladder tearing and ruining performance and I don't need to wonder if it's seated properly after a build. Small issues I admit, but I am all for making things easier when it comes to maintenance. Mostly why I've been so anal about stocking up on type B parts lol. But if I did noticed a difference in performance I would definitely take the leap. I suppose it may be worth it to build a couple different shock sets and just swap them out at the track. One set with bladders and one set emulsion and see if I can sense any difference. I hate refilling oils at the track. It always feels like wasted time lol.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:14 AM
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The only people that tear bladders are those who run with the bleed screw out, which is a terrible thing to do.

The foam pieces that go inside the bladders are there to equalize the front and rear. You have the same size bladder front and rear but the rear shocks are longer and the shaft displaces more volume inside the shock. You only run the foam pieces in the front shocks for equivalency.
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:02 AM
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I just got a full set of rear shocks with what looks to be black titanium shafts, aluminum bottom/top caps and preload nuts for $24. I think I have a problem.
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Old 08-03-2017, 07:37 PM
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I know you guys are way past this but my son has an rtr. hing pin tore chassis so ordered the dimec 20+ 8 i think. it says i need part #td330578 to complete build and two others. i cant find this part anywhere. its new front bulk head any ideas he enjoys this car but dont know how to fix it without parts.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lvereen001
I know you guys are way past this but my son has an rtr. hing pin tore chassis so ordered the dimec 20+ 8 i think. it says i need part #td330578 to complete build and two others. i cant find this part anywhere. its new front bulk head any ideas he enjoys this car but dont know how to fix it without parts.
Go to Exotek.com.
Order the aluminum front bulkhead for 12.95. You won't ever have to replace it again.
For the rest hangers I s he running rear or mid motor??
Is the motor in front of rear axle or behind it?
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
Go to Exotek.com.
Order the aluminum front bulkhead for 12.95. You won't ever have to replace it again.
For the rest hangers I s he running rear or mid motor??
Is the motor in front of rear axle or behind it?
That's true! I think you can even still get both black and gold versions of it. And some v3 carbon rear towers couldn't hurt for $12 a pop
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:10 AM
  #19453  
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[QUOTE=WallyRC;14993428]Go to Exotek.com.
Order the aluminum front bulkhead for 12.95. You won't ever have to replace it again.
For the rest hangers I s he running rear or mid motor??
Is the motor in front of rear axle or behind it?[/Q the motor is in the rear position

Last edited by lvereen001; 08-04-2017 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:23 AM
  #19454  
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Originally Posted by lvereen001
The hangers don't know the motor is in the rear position
Also what about front and rear arms don't see much on that what should I get. Thanks for help on bulk head going to get it.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by lvereen001
The hangers don't know the motor is in the rear position
So the v3 towers will work what other v3 parts will fit.
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