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Old 02-26-2016, 01:20 PM   #17446
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Default Sideways shorty mod

Just need to finish electronics. Jconcepts battery brace, B5. Sorry all trying to upload photo and it won't work, will try again later.

Last edited by WallyRC; 02-26-2016 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:09 PM   #17447
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I actually got an email from Travis, really cool!
Hope he posts on a Motorama setup and if they are going to make new side pods to run the battery across the chassis because if they do I will just wait for those vs do the mod like they have to run the battery across. I only have 3 or so more indoor races for the season and then its outdoors which I don't run again until next indoor season.
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Old 02-27-2016, 01:31 PM   #17448
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Here is a photo. Got it to work.
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Old 02-27-2016, 02:44 PM   #17449
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Here is a photo. Got it to work.
Looks nice and clean. Did you cut more off the side pods than you intended? Are you worried about it sliding fore and aft?
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:42 PM   #17450
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It's in pretty good. Didn't cut out too much. Need a little space to be able to slide battery in. Gonna put some foam somewhere once I get it wired up to keep battery from moving foward.
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:54 PM   #17451
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I think the Schelle B5m racing one will work better because it has the stops for forward motion built in.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:18 AM   #17452
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All the parts stores say the dex210 rear arms are either backordered or even discontinued. Anyone know WTF is going on.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:33 AM   #17453
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I am assuming it may be related to the new vehicle releases and those parts I guess going into those kits. Tower is showing Mid April for stocking parts again. Hopefully it happens sonner than that.
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Old 02-28-2016, 04:56 PM   #17454
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Has anyone else cracked the front arms on a DEX210v2 when putting in the droop screw? After breaking an arm at the track, I picked up two replacement sets from Tower and in both cases, the driver side arm cracked when putting in the droop screw. For the heck of it, I tried the passenger side and the droop screw went in there without any problems.

Is this a bad batch of arms? I already emailed Durango USA about a week ago but as usual they're taking their sweet time to respond.
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Old 02-28-2016, 05:31 PM   #17455
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So i broke a rear arm on my v3 and cannot find replacements for TD330712 type b.....does anyone have a set they would sell or know of another place to find them as everyplace i have looked says out till mid april
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Old 02-28-2016, 05:58 PM   #17456
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the previous type I see available on ebay right now, the ones with only 1 set of holes for the shock mounting.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:59 PM   #17457
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What would be a good shock tower replacement for the v1? (tougher )
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Old 02-29-2016, 12:04 AM   #17458
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What would be a good shock tower replacement for the v1? (tougher )
I have the stock v2 one on the front and on the rear I have the strc one.
I have a spare strc for the front but it has to alloy bits to put on the turnbuckle and I race stock so it ways a lot.
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:34 AM   #17459
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What would be a good shock tower replacement for the v1? (tougher )
I would check out "Diggity Designs". Good price and quality. I have the V2 and am running stock towers and in a year haven't broken one. The rear in the V2 is lower and the front on the V2 is rearward slightly. The front should just swap out. Diggity designs I believe has the V1 and "lowered" v2 as well.

As for rear arms, if you are mounting your shocks on the front of the rear arms. Either V1 or v2 will work. If you are mounting on the rear, better to get the V2/3 rear arms. I know early on people were flipping the V1 rear arms and adding limiter to the shocks because you loose the droop screw adjustments. I don't use the droop screws on the rear anyway because they end up bending the Chasis where they make contact.

As for fronts cracking at droop screw insertion. I would recommend everybody boil your arms for about 3 minutes. Softens them up slightly, shouldn't crack as easily.

Good luck

Last edited by WallyRC; 02-29-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:55 PM   #17460
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Default Good gear diff setup

I know this has probably been asked before, but want to believe that a gear diff could be setup close to a ball diff for indoor clay. Medium to high bite, smaller technical track. I run ball diff I my DEX, gear diff a in my DEST/DESC.

Would like to know what some of you are running that is working well for you. I have seen setups with 50wt oils up to 100,000.
Some say thicker for high traction and I have seen low for high traction.

I've seen 2 gear used.
Any input would be great. Thank you in advance!!

Last edited by WallyRC; 03-01-2016 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
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