Cain

iTrader: (294)

Is tehre anyone else interested in ordering a +8mm Plan B chassis? Could be interested but as he said he needs 5 orders.

If not, I may just order the stock one.

Also, what are some of the common hop ups you guys are using for 17.5 blinky? seen a few things like aluminum axles, even a lightened motor plate that looks like swiss cheese lol.

Tdub77

iTrader: (2)

I have the chassis he sells, whatever size it is, and it's great and it weighs in at 1505 with a shorty and nothing else to save weight. Just buy it, you will like it

Tim

Dino_D

Sure you can spend hundreds getting all things aluminum and titanium. But aluminum is heavier than plastic.

Quickest way to lighten your car is to use a low-profile shorty lipo or super shorty lipo. Also you can move the weight around in the car to get more tuning as you need as these packs are 3200mah+ which is more than enough for stock.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

True. I am thinking for thinking that are naturally lighter than the stock stuff, so for example, the top shaft and steel axles.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Looks like the DEX210v3 is in stock over at Tower. Only $220 with coupon code.

No new parts like the hexes and rear axles though.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

went ahead and ordered the chassis. Looking forward to it!

What do you guy recommend for tranny setup, 3 gear or 4 for stock with it, assuming carpet for now. Also, gear or ball diff?

as for lightening parts, I am thinking the following:

- Exotek direct spur mount
- Exotek Flite top shaft
- Durango Lightweight gear diff outdrives

I was considering the aluminum axles as I have tons of durango wheels, but was wondering if they are worth getting for stock only or are they just not durable, seen some reports but curious if anyone heard anything recent.

WallyRC

I would recommend the molded cross shafts and gears for your gear diff. Part #TDR310290. They are very durable and lighten it up.

I only run 3 gear, and I heard that it is best for stock. I tried four but the car gets a little too much weight transfer. But if your on high traction carpet it may be worth trying.

The rest of your list sounds good.

Let us know how it all goes with the plan b. I'm really curious.
Thanks

chadhertz

I used to run my dex210 on ozite carpet... everyone was running 4 gear mid motor... Car was absolutely dialed on ion's in the rear and a carpet hook front tire.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks ordered!

I'll post what I find. The plan b owner is really cool, was willing to answer some questions for me.

Right now the big debate I am having is if I want to stick with my gull wing a-arms or go to the straight fronts. I have basically the V1 a-arm and shock setup here, but do have the V2 tower as well as a graphite tower but not sure what it aligns as.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

The only difference between the V1 and V2 front towers is the V2 tower is offset a little more rearward. The shock bottom eyelets install in the arm with the longer side on the back on a V1. You just turn this around on a V2 so the shock sits slightly farther back on the arm. The problem with this is that at the extreme limits of steering, the inside link may come into contact with the shock. May, being the key word. You could run the V2 front tower with your current V1 setup. Just reverse the bottom shock mount on the arm. The V2 arms is one thing that I do personally prefer over the V1.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I run the V2 tower right now, rest V1.

what about V2 a-arms, still need to get the V2 shocks or do something else?

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

the only difference is the v2 front shock shafts are slightly shorter to make up for the flat arm.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

cool thanks. so just order shorter v2 shock shafts or limit the downtravel of the v1 shocks I am assuming will do it.

micholix

The v2 shafts doesn't solve the problem, they limit just the maximum of droop/downtravel.
The main problem is the uptravel even with v1 arms, shocks and towers the uptravel is to low!
If you try it and push the front down to pottom out with the chassis und try to lift the weel from the ground, it would not, or just a tiny bit off of the ground.
I have a v1 and what i did, to solve the problem was, i swiched the stopper with an old shock o-ring, that gave me a fiew mm more lift off of the front weel.

TRF415boy

The V2 (and V3) have both shorter shock bodies and shock shafts.