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Old 11-07-2011, 02:27 PM   #1606
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Other than the c-clip and the ballcups, does the rest of this car seam to have the sturdiness Im use to with my 410? Arms, caster blocks, etc.
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:33 PM   #1607
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Other than the c-clip and the ballcups, does the rest of this car seam to have the sturdiness Im use to with my 410? Arms, caster blocks, etc.
The only other part that has been giving me issues, is the front hingpin block in the rear of the car. I have broken 2 out of the 3 of mine... iv broken my 3 degree and my 1.5 degree, and am stuck running the last remaining block in the kit, the 0 degree, until spares are available.

So far, the hing-pin block seems like it is the only weak point on the car. There hasn't been much discussion on this issue here on the thread, but I wouldn't think im the only one breaking these. One of them broke with very minor contact with an exposed pipe.

The circlip is a non-issue, and neither are the ball cups if you run the originals. (the ones that come on the 410)
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:38 PM   #1608
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Xray T3 circlips should work?

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=XRA966080
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:43 PM   #1609
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Says I have to login to keep browsing..

Broke one of my hingpin blocks, ripped the ball out of the hole, happy the LHS had spares tho
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:49 PM   #1610
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I think I fixed the link, try it now. It's part# 966080
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:01 PM   #1611
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anyone else here break the steering rack? i broke mine a few days ago, i landed pretty flat and turned and thats all she wrote after that. it snapped where the screw goes into. i wonder if they are coming out with an aluminum one.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:03 PM   #1612
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The only other part that has been giving me issues, is the front hingpin block in the rear of the car. I have broken 2 out of the 3 of mine... iv broken my 3 degree and my 1.5 degree, and am stuck running the last remaining block in the kit, the 0 degree, until spares are available.

So far, the hing-pin block seems like it is the only weak point on the car. There hasn't been much discussion on this issue here on the thread, but I wouldn't think im the only one breaking these. One of them broke with very minor contact with an exposed pipe.

The circlip is a non-issue, and neither are the ball cups if you run the originals. (the ones that come on the 410)
So the AL ones I have seen must of been on team cars and not Available yet? I will most likely switch to losi cups since I already made the change on my 410.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:11 PM   #1613
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Other than the c-clip and the ballcups, does the rest of this car seam to have the sturdiness Im use to with my 410? Arms, caster blocks, etc.
I read on hear of a couple people and one of the guys at our local track also broke a rear shock tower by flat landing/casing a jump.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:13 PM   #1614
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Broke one of my hingpin blocks, ripped the ball out of the hole, happy the LHS had spares tho
Same exact thing happened to both of the ones I broke. The hingpin ball just tore right through the top/side of the hole

How did the LHS have spares if they don't exist yet?
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:14 PM   #1615
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I read on hear of a couple people and one of the guys at our local track also broke a rear shock tower by flat landing/casing a jump.
Any part is POSSIBLE to break... i think the key is to find the ones that break more easily than they should. The majority of this car is built like a tank.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:17 PM   #1616
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Same exact thing happened to both of the ones I broke. The hingpin ball just tore right through the top/side of the hole

How did the LHS have spares if they don't exist yet?
Think he had a couple of kits hes pulling parts for but I may just have 2 kits on the way as back ups for me, maybe sell one
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:34 PM   #1617
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Is there a shock tool for the durango shocks to hold the body tight while screwing on the shock caps? I dont' want to use pliers on the top of the shock body and scratch them!
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:02 PM   #1618
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Is there a shock tool for the durango shocks to hold the body tight while screwing on the shock caps? I dont' want to use pliers on the top of the shock body and scratch them!
With the o-ring on there I havent had the need to do it tighter than hand tight. I have no leaks from the cap at all.
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:05 PM   #1619
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With the o-ring on there I havent had the need to do it tighter than hand tight. I have no leaks from the cap at all.
+1, hand tight is fine, no leaks here either
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:06 PM   #1620
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anyone else here break the steering rack? i broke mine a few days ago, i landed pretty flat and turned and thats all she wrote after that. it snapped where the screw goes into. i wonder if they are coming out with an aluminum one.
Patrick at SDRC broke his rack.... he glued it back together and traced it out on a piece of aluminum and cut it out to make his own.
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