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Old 12-15-2014, 10:12 AM   #15571
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Originally Posted by darkdays View Post
I am also guessing the shock is pushing the tab abit too low and the need to adjust the droop screw. This is a pic of both of my rear arms, with the inner side chipping off.

I may be wrong as I am still new and learning so go easy on me.


Yup i do have them marks on the rear arms by the droop screws. Thinking i should limit the droop a little more.

Although i don't think the tabs are bent but i check my.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:47 AM   #15572
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Let me ask you a trick question.
Shock collars on the bottom. Which ones you have on front and rear. You know they are not the same. THere are ones marked with "0" the other says "2" if you put the wrong ones on, your collars will be very off.
OMG thats hilarious. Just checked my car and I have different ones on all 4 corners lol...doh...

Thanks Dino for pointing out my obvious mistake lol...

Last edited by tobamiester; 12-15-2014 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:27 AM   #15573
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Is anyone running the molded chassis with their 210v2? http://www.amain.com/team-durango-8m...type-b/p298926

I'm also thinking of this as a tuning option. If you can please compare it to the aluminum. Also has anyone used it with the LRC option?

I think the exotek LRC option I am using along with my 0 anti squat may be part of the reason I have bent the droop plates in the rear. Probably need to run a small limiter inside.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:34 AM   #15574
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Originally Posted by darkdays View Post
I am also guessing the shock is pushing the tab abit too low and the need to adjust the droop screw. This is a pic of both of my rear arms, with the inner side chipping off.

I may be wrong as I am still new and learning so go easy on me.
Yep. Bent down. The arm gouges are evidence. Adjust the droop till the arm just clears. Check often and adjust or get a new chassis that wont do that. Droop screws are great in theory but not a dursble option for some. I run outdoor low/med clay. My buggy gets beat pretty bad.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:03 PM   #15575
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Is anyone running the molded chassis with their 210v2? http://www.amain.com/team-durango-8m...type-b/p298926

I'm also thinking of this as a tuning option. If you can please compare it to the aluminum. Also has anyone used it with the LRC option?

I think the exotek LRC option I am using along with my 0 anti squat may be part of the reason I have bent the droop plates in the rear. Probably need to run a small limiter inside.
I went to this chassis from the v1 alloy chassis.

it was an improvment in grip and stability for me unsure whether it was the 8mm+ or flex but I drive out door loose track.

I also went to a LRC RR Hanger at the same time

TD 330599 RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B)
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330599

I run 0deg RF for anti squat.

V1 shell fits also

I have not had any issue with these parts.

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Old 12-15-2014, 04:12 PM   #15576
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Hi guys,

Can somebody help me understanding the Dex210 v2 gear chart? It is on P.45 of the manual.

I'm still learning about rc cars and my Dex210 and I've been told that I should change my pinion and spur gears to a 69t pinion and a32t spur (I think, I didn't write down what this guy at my rc track recommended), The set comes with a 81t pinion gear and a 29 spur gear.

I would change them asap but I have no idea about what the meaning of all the numbers I see in the gear chat is. What is the meaning of the 2.6 internal ratio? 81t and 29t apparently give me 7.26, but what does 7.26 mean? How do you calculate which pinion correspond to which spur? I saw this guy using his calculator to tell me I should go 69t with 32t? But I didn't get why.

I hope somebody can help me.

Thanks.
Hi,

Any help with the questions above?

Cheers
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Old 12-15-2014, 05:51 PM   #15577
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Hi guys,

Can somebody help me understanding the Dex210 v2 gear chart? It is on P.45 of the manual.

I'm still learning about rc cars and my Dex210 and I've been told that I should change my pinion and spur gears to a 69t pinion and a32t spur (I think, I didn't write down what this guy at my rc track recommended), The set comes with a 81t pinion gear and a 29 spur gear.

I would change them asap but I have no idea about what the meaning of all the numbers I see in the gear chat is. What is the meaning of the 2.6 internal ratio? 81t and 29t apparently give me 7.26, but what does 7.26 mean? How do you calculate which pinion correspond to which spur? I saw this guy using his calculator to tell me I should go 69t with 32t? But I didn't get why.

I hope somebody can help me.

Thanks.
I'll give it a shot here. 7.26 is your final drive ratio (FDR). All other things being equal a higher numerical FDR will give you more acceleration but lower top speed and vice versa.

(Spur # teeth / Pinion # teeth) * Internal Ratio = FDR

So the recommendation you got was (69/32)*2.6 = 5.6

A 75/35 setup would yield a similar FDR.

Gearing is also dictated by the motor you are using.

A higher turn motor essentially has more "torque" and can turn the lower numerical FDR without overheating and needs the low FDR to have decent top end.

A lower turn motor has less "torque", but more "top-end HP". Need higher FDR for acceleration and motor spins high RPM to reach big top end.
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Old 12-15-2014, 06:43 PM   #15578
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Oh if you want a easy upgrade on the stock slipper clutch the B4 slipper pads grab much better and more constant ! Takes a bit to brake in after though there good.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:16 PM   #15579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asalas View Post
Hi guys,

Can somebody help me understanding the Dex210 v2 gear chart? It is on P.45 of the manual.

I'm still learning about rc cars and my Dex210 and I've been told that I should change my pinion and spur gears to a 69t pinion and a32t spur (I think, I didn't write down what this guy at my rc track recommended), The set comes with a 81t pinion gear and a 29 spur gear.

I would change them asap but I have no idea about what the meaning of all the numbers I see in the gear chat is. What is the meaning of the 2.6 internal ratio? 81t and 29t apparently give me 7.26, but what does 7.26 mean? How do you calculate which pinion correspond to which spur? I saw this guy using his calculator to tell me I should go 69t with 32t? But I didn't get why.

I hope somebody can help me.

Thanks.
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Originally Posted by ekt View Post
An internal ratio of 2.6 means the layshaft gear turns 2.6 times to turn the diff once.
7.26 refers to the final drive ratio, how many times the motor spins to get the wheels to spin once.
To work out your FDR use this formula. (Spur Pinion) x Internal Drive Ratio = Final Drive Ratio.
I'm guessing you are running 17.5 buggy from what gearing you were recommended.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:08 PM   #15580
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@pittster: nice. Makes sense. Thanks. I also switched to LRC setup in the rear and longer chassis with the V2 kit. Car is much more stable. For now I'm trying the exotek graphite. Overall seems like a nice product although had to dremel just a touch in the rear to make the LRC mount fit. It was too wide.
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Old 12-16-2014, 01:58 PM   #15581
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Thank you ekt and Wanderer77. your explanation helps a lot. It's now all crystal clear to me.

Cheers
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:31 AM   #15582
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Is anyone running the molded chassis with their 210v2? http://www.amain.com/team-durango-8m...type-b/p298926

I'm also thinking of this as a tuning option. If you can please compare it to the aluminum. Also has anyone used it with the LRC option?

I think the exotek LRC option I am using along with my 0 anti squat may be part of the reason I have bent the droop plates in the rear. Probably need to run a small limiter inside.
On loose and low bite tracks, I always will prefer the Dimec +8 chassis. It allows for more flex and its more forgiving than the aluminum which is better suited for med to high grip tracks. On very hot days, I may opt to use the Dimec20 +8 chassis on low bite loose conditions, as the original Dimec chassis may be too soft in the very hot summer days.

Also, I tend to prefer using the HRC (standard) over the LRC on low bite loose conditions. Normally the 1.5 degree option. A lot of people ask why HRC vs LRC.

LRC is more suited for smoother med to high bite tracks, as it prevents the car from traction rolling. It has more bite going into a corner and less bite going out. This is why I don't prefer it. As you can't get out of the corner as fast or as hard. Most guys who run on carpet, astro or high traction clay use LRC.

HRC is a higher roll center, it takes bumps better, and honestly better for lower bite. Sure it has less bite going into a corner, but however, most 2WD don't have a problem with corner entry. However, when it breaks traction into a corner, it slides more consistently and you can actually really slide it well into a turn. But where it shines, is on exit. You can drive it harder out of a corner without looping the car while using LRC you can easily spin out of corner exit unless you are ginger on the throttle. You can't use 0 HRC, it doesn't give you enough front drive to plant the power down. Always start with 1.5 and if you need more steering, use the 3 degree HRC.

My theory is always worry about max grip on exit. You can accelerate harder than others out of a turn shaves off tons of time per lap.
Give it a try and let me know which works for you.

If the track is med bite 3 HRC or 1.5 LRC or high bite then LRC for sure.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:02 AM   #15583
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I was wondering if anyone could tell me if its worth picking up this buggy now since its a few years older or should I wait and see if rango comes out with something else?
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:18 AM   #15584
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I don't think there coming out with a other upgraded Dex210 soon . The V2 is still just as competive as the newer buggys with the right setup and a decent driver or so .
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Old 12-18-2014, 03:29 PM   #15585
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I was wondering if anyone could tell me if its worth picking up this buggy now since its a few years older or should I wait and see if rango comes out with something else?
The V2 came out this year. I doubt they will release another car soon. Although there are a few new trick parts that came out (adjustable rear front suspension holder) or are coming out (on point rear bulkhead).

Even if you have a V1, you can easily upgrade to the Type B arms and shock towers, and move to a +8 dimec or aluminum chassis and type B gear box. It doesn't cost that much to upgrade. You can even go as far as changing the front shock bodies and shafts, but the v1 will work on the v2 cars, with the rubber stopper removed from the shocks.
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