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Old 12-15-2014, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Yup, Doesn't change it much.

Here is a pic of my rear w/ B5 Hexes.

This is very interersting to me, I have been wondering of a simple 12mm hex that would not affect offset much this would work for the Dex410 and Desc210 but SCt Wheels all have a offset where the Durango ones dont so that will make it tricky
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by darkdays View Post
Hi,
I just assembled the v2 and had it race on a local track yesterday. I did not managed to finish both of my heats due to my rear shock shaft keeps popping out of its ball end. There were 3 of us running the v2 and all of us had the same problem.

I resorted to apply some superglue to the threads but to no avail.

Is it a common problem? And is there any solution to it?
Yep, the droop screws are not limiting travel so the shock ends are. The dimec ends dont cut threads very well. I went to a traxxas end and have not had any problems. My post is way back about this. You need to adjust the droop screws out a little as the chassis tabs bend.
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Old 12-15-2014, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
The Avid, JC, and Pro Line 12mm hexes all work pretty well.

Has anyone bent their alum chassis ? I've bent the V1 and the V2, minor but when disassembled you can see a little bit of a tweak. I'll post some pics as soon as I can disassemble it.

I also picked up the Exotek graphite chassis as a replacement since graphite doesn't bend and because I'd like to see how the car handles with the graphite. Perhaps a little more traction with the flex differences vs alum. Has anyone else tried it?

Thanks ahead of time!
Stock chassis is .062 6061-t6. It is milled down to ..030 at the servo wire conduit which is where it bends. It's not stout enough. I made a 1/8" 7075-t6 chassis that is pocket milled and is actually lighter than stock. Also got rid of the extra screw holes and weak reat droop tabs. Havent bent it yet.
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Old 12-15-2014, 04:15 AM
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I raced my custom chassis at my track's big christmas race this weekend. Took second in 17.5 buggy. I couldn't have been happier with how the car drove. Didn't have to touch it all day.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:24 AM
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What kind of gearing range are the 17.5 "blinky" guys running? Curious because I'm having some issues, not sure whats going on.

I was running a B5M earlier this year and switched to the DEX210 V2 since all my other vehicles are TD. I took the Trinity D4 Maxzilla from my B5M and put it in my TD along with my other electronics. Only thing I changed was the ESC, went from HW Stockspec V3.1 to a Tekin RS Gen 2. I started with 69 / 33 since that what I ran on the B5M and the car just didn't have any top end, I went to 69/ 35 and it has a little more top end but no low end. Played with the timing and cant get it to perform at all. I'm thinking maybe the motor is dying, at least that's what it feels like.

My next thought was the try a 75 / 35 gearing and that will put me right around 5.5 FDR which Trinity recommends for that motor in 17.5 buggy
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeepy2013 View Post
What kind of gearing range are the 17.5 "blinky" guys running? Curious because I'm having some issues, not sure whats going on.

I was running a B5M earlier this year and switched to the DEX210 V2 since all my other vehicles are TD. I took the Trinity D4 Maxzilla from my B5M and put it in my TD along with my other electronics. Only thing I changed was the ESC, went from HW Stockspec V3.1 to a Tekin RS Gen 2. I started with 69 / 33 since that what I ran on the B5M and the car just didn't have any top end, I went to 69/ 35 and it has a little more top end but no low end. Played with the timing and cant get it to perform at all. I'm thinking maybe the motor is dying, at least that's what it feels like.

My next thought was the try a 75 / 35 gearing and that will put me right around 5.5 FDR which Trinity recommends for that motor in 17.5 buggy
I ran 69/35 and it felt pretty good. So maybe try another motor for comparison ?
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:30 AM
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That's what Im thinking too. This motor, really ripped in the B5M, in this car it just isn't performing like I think it should. My lap times are slower too. Even with all this, I managed to TQ Sat night and took 1st in the A-main. I can clearly see my car is down on power compared to others I'm running against.

The B5M and DEX210 V2 both have the same trans ratio of 2.6, both were mid motor configured.

The only big change I made was going from HW to Tekin. It almost feels like the current limit is on, I checked all my settings and everything checked out fine. I'm running the RS Gen 2's in my DESC210 and DEST210 in 13.5 with timing and they both run really well.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:41 AM
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I don't run stock only mod motor and use the stock spur with a 24t pinion and this buggy hauls ! Even on tighter smaller tracks that gearing makes it easyier to drive than a smaller pinion .

But soon i am getting a 8.5 motor from a 10.5 .
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:46 AM
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The car itself works great, last two weeks I won Stock buggy with it. The issue I feel is either with the motor or ESC. Im not getting hot either, (140 esc, around 120 on motor) which would lead me to believe I could gear up, but thats not the case because I already have no power. Unfortunately I don't have another 17.5 to try right now.

IDK, I'm pretty close to saying the heck with it and just running Mod with the buggy anyways.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:52 AM
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I was running a Schuurspeed with 33/69 and timing turned up to 40*. I probably cooked it after the 10 minute main, but I had no problem keeping up with anybody.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
I raced my custom chassis at my track's big christmas race this weekend. Took second in 17.5 buggy. I couldn't have been happier with how the car drove. Didn't have to touch it all day.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.



Nice ! Good to see there is some homemade things still made in R/C .

The new layout there looks crazy good .


Jeepy: I know my motor only gets luke warm on high traction clay the esc might get a tad warm . Would make sense though to gear it highter than a 24t on a smaller tighter track on a bigger one yea.

I think mod motors run cooler generally. Do mod motor its just easyier to get speed and cheaper.

Do most of you guys use the stock springs on the V2 ? I have a rate stiffer for the Front and Rear end .
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Lone Star View Post
Yep, the droop screws are not limiting travel so the shock ends are. The dimec ends dont cut threads very well. I went to a traxxas end and have not had any problems. My post is way back about this. You need to adjust the droop screws out a little as the chassis tabs bend.
I've also noticed that my droop tabs bent pretty easily and didn't take very long. Made me think the shock was a bit long forcing the tab down. Haven't had a chance to take the car apart yet. Swapping for a graphite chassis next.
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:22 AM
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Speaking of the graphite chassis, who's running a chassis protector or under tray? I think I probably should with the graphite. Please share links to your favorite chassis skins or if you like using 3M vinyl or something like that let me know. Thanks in Advance!
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
I was running a Schuurspeed with 33/69 and timing turned up to 40*. I probably cooked it after the 10 minute main, but I had no problem keeping up with anybody.
I played with the timing on mine, even went up to 60, but it cogged at 60. Ran it at 50, 40, 30.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I've also noticed that my droop tabs bent pretty easily and didn't take very long. Made me think the shock was a bit long forcing the tab down. Haven't had a chance to take the car apart yet. Swapping for a graphite chassis next.
I am also guessing the shock is pushing the tab abit too low and the need to adjust the droop screw. This is a pic of both of my rear arms, with the inner side chipping off.

I may be wrong as I am still new and learning so go easy on me.
Attached Thumbnails Durango DEX210 Thread-dsc_0462.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-dsc_0461.jpg  
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