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Old 11-26-2014, 10:32 PM   #15481
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Ok thanks. Right now im running 32w F/30w Rear is 32w up Front to heavy ? Actually the grip level isn't high traction its medium to low inless its wet for a while its higher traction . In the video it was dryier all day.

Last weekend i was running maintly warn Rear Ions (clay) and Ions up front with sauce on them . Tried slicks but it was to dry that day that's what everybody runs when its wetter and dryier treaded tires .

The temps inside its not cold its confortable as long as people keep the doors shut its a big building ! Most guys run B5M with the 4 gear mid motor i may go back to that from 3 gear mid motor now which i like its not as twichy.
If the temp is cold or cool. Have you tried M4 Ions instead of the clays. Sure clay works better in wet, but when dry and cool.. M4 Ions would work better. Or Dirt Webs Black.

3 gear or 4 gear mid motor is more a personal choice in terms of handling. 3 gear has no flight control and less weight transfer. 4 gear you can control attitude in the air, but more weight transfer.

Twitchiness can be a result of too soft oil in the front causing it to dive in corners, or too much droop in the rear transferring to the front.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:46 PM   #15482
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If the temp is cold or cool. Have you tried M4 Ions instead of the clays. Sure clay works better in wet, but when dry and cool.. M4 Ions would work better. Or Dirt Webs Black.

3 gear or 4 gear mid motor is more a personal choice in terms of handling. 3 gear has no flight control and less weight transfer. 4 gear you can control attitude in the air, but more weight transfer.

Twitchiness can be a result of too soft oil in the front causing it to dive in corners, or too much droop in the rear transferring to the front.



I never tried M4 compound on the clay most guys there always use the Clay compound. I did just buy some Barcodes for the Rear and Handlebars, Dirtwebs for the Front .


I did notice that with the 3 gear you cant really do much in the air but the buggy jumps level enough. 4 gear mid motor may actually work better on that track since its small with tighter turns but a fast layout.

That makes since on the twitchness . The 32 w up Front helped with it but more understeer somewhat il defietly test out the droop Front and Rear .
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:04 PM   #15483
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So I've run my car for the first time this week in MM3 @ 17.5 and over all I really like the car. I have a B5m and I've always enjoyed its steering but not its bulky feeling weight and overall length. Enter the dex210 which is feeling more like a rear motor car as in shorter length and lighter overall. My only concern is that even in mid the car tends to push a bit like a rear motor car does into turns and doesn't seem to have as much steering as I'm used to with the B5m. My hope was that this car could be the best of both worlds as I prefer the power and grip of a rear motor setup but like the steering and mid-corner ability of a mid motor car. It's very close and I'm decently fast with the car out of the box. Any suggestions would be awesome. My track is medium bite clay running 32.5 rear and 35 front with Panther rattlers in the rear and Bobcats up front.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:17 PM   #15484
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So I've run my car for the first time this week in MM3 @ 17.5 and over all I really like the car. I have a B5m and I've always enjoyed its steering but not its bulky feeling weight and overall length. Enter the dex210 which is feeling more like a rear motor car as in shorter length and lighter overall. My only concern is that even in mid the car tends to push a bit like a rear motor car does into turns and doesn't seem to have as much steering as I'm used to with the B5m. My hope was that this car could be the best of both worlds as I prefer the power and grip of a rear motor setup but like the steering and mid-corner ability of a mid motor car. It's very close and I'm decently fast with the car out of the box. Any suggestions would be awesome. My track is medium bite clay running 32.5 rear and 35 front with Panther rattlers in the rear and Bobcats up front.



Do you have full steering throw ? The 3 gear mid motor doesn't have the steering that the MM4 does i noticed not as much turn in ethier. What i would do is move the rear hub spacers forward or use the rear holes on the steering rack seem to help me . A

Also move the battery toward the front .

35w F/ 35W sounds kind of heavy for med traction i say 30w to 32.5 up Front and 30w in the rear if your running the stock springs/pistons.

I actually tried out the B5M some guy let me test it out and for sure it has more turn in i think having the the electronics all in the center of the chassis really helps it .

I may if i can fit it put my ESC toward the Rear end in back of the battery.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:47 AM   #15485
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mm4 throws the weight of the car to the front when braking, so going into a turn on the breaks will certainly give you more entry steering.

To increase steering on my mm3 setup I set the front axle cariers to the 0 insert (inline axles), reduced caster to 20*, and increased front toe out. These adjustments get you more overall steering, not just low speed or high speed. Making those adjustments matches perfectly with the neutral/consistent feel of mm3.

Be sure to adjust your ackerman/bump steer/and front hinge pin washers after changing the caster. With inline axles you want the 4 1mm washers in front of the caster block. This does shorten your wheelbase as well, which will also help to give you more steering.
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:07 PM   #15486
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I will try these suggestions. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-28-2014, 02:02 PM   #15487
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When you use 1 shaft / 2 gears in your diff it is lighter than the 2 shafts with 4 spider gears. But since there is less resistance, you need to use thicker diff oil to compensate for the less resistance in the gears. But really have you weight the 2 gears vs the extra oil required to fill it. It isn't that much different. Maybe a few grams. Also it is smoother with the 4 gears instead of 2. Just saying. The best thing to do would be to use the molded composite gears from the DEX410 v4. Its much lighter than the steel spider gears and shaft. Plus its cheap! Price wise.
What do you think about the durability of the cross composite gears you recommend? I think it would be good to make changes to the differential only once every 6 months or even a year. Could I achieve that with the cross composite gears?

Thanks for your help
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Old 11-28-2014, 03:17 PM   #15488
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What do you think about the durability of the cross composite gears you recommend? I think it would be good to make changes to the differential only once every 6 months or even a year. Could I achieve that with the cross composite gears?

Thanks for your help
I ran the composite gears since March till now, no signs of wear. I am sure it will last. But I can't say the same for the fluid. You kinda need to top it up or freshen it once every month or so. Viscosity breakdown of the oil plus you loose some oil thru the o-rings. Upgrading to the 4mm purple or blue o-rings instead of the x-rings will stop the leakage to a minimum.

I have the same composites in my v4 and they are mint.

On carpet high bite, I think you might want to stay with the steel gears in mod (especially in 4wd). But in stock on carpet it is fine, and it should be okay in the 2wd buggy or truck even in mod. But on low traction surfaces, a ball diff is still preferred.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:25 PM   #15489
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Thanks everyone for all the guidance/suggestions for the slipper clutch! What do you think about the following solution?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
I give up.. I thought there was something w/ the way I put the ball diff together and so I opted for the gear diff.. I even installed the AVID slipper along w/ the AVID Durango upgrade... I compared the speed w/ my Losi 22.. same battery.. it's like a night and day difference.. what could possibly be wrong w/ the DEX210? I have never had a problem building a buggy like this before.. Associated, Losi, X-Ray, Kyosho... Any suggestions?

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Now compare to the Losi.. same battery.. I don't get it..
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:44 PM   #15490
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I give up.. I thought there was something w/ the way I put the ball diff together and so I opted for the gear diff.. I even installed the AVID slipper along w/ the AVID Durango upgrade... I compared the speed w/ my Losi 22.. same battery.. it's like a night and day difference.. what could possibly be wrong w/ the DEX210? I have never had a problem building a buggy like this before.. Associated, Losi, X-Ray, Kyosho... Any suggestions?

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Now compare to the Losi.. same battery.. I don't get it..
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.




Gear mesh is to tight in the first video. There is a tight spot on the stock spur gear try to find the tightest spot and adjust it intill there is a little play.
It looks like to me there is to much drag brake when you let go on throttle it stops to fast.

And that little bearing that goes to the top shaft on the transmission could be bad.

I have the gear diff also.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:53 PM   #15491
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Originally Posted by LoudOne View Post
I give up.. I thought there was something w/ the way I put the ball diff together and so I opted for the gear diff.. I even installed the AVID slipper along w/ the AVID Durango upgrade... I compared the speed w/ my Losi 22.. same battery.. it's like a night and day difference.. what could possibly be wrong w/ the DEX210? I have never had a problem building a buggy like this before.. Associated, Losi, X-Ray, Kyosho... Any suggestions?
Are you using the composite wheel hexes? If you tighten them too much they will bind into the hubs.
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:51 PM   #15492
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Are you using the composite wheel hexes? If you tighten them too much they will bind into the hubs.
Hi, no I'm using the Exotek aluminum ones... The more I think about it, I think the issue may be with the esc.. I think this is the only one where I plugged in and updated the software.. although, it shouldn't matter.. I may have to plug in the LRP usb attachment and see if I can go back to default.. I really like this buggy, but I need to figure this out.. Thanks for the responses..
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:17 PM   #15493
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Hi, no I'm using the Exotek aluminum ones... The more I think about it, I think the issue may be with the esc.. I think this is the only one where I plugged in and updated the software.. although, it shouldn't matter.. I may have to plug in the LRP usb attachment and see if I can go back to default.. I really like this buggy, but I need to figure this out.. Thanks for the responses..
This was EXACTLY where I was going to suggest. Do NOT do anything else, SWAP ESC's and then see what happens. Then you'll know for sure. Otherwise, the next steps would be to check binding just like the other folks posted.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:35 PM   #15494
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Going though this tread i noticed no pics of guys running the ESC toward the Rear inline or in the Front ? I put my toward the rear of the battery and it rotated much better it wasn't rolling as much with the suspension side to side. I did search some pics on yahoo of the buggy and there was a few who did the inline setup.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:49 AM   #15495
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running Nosram Comet behind battery.
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