tc5 man

Oh. Yea on clay when i ran the 4 gear mid motor it was twitchy but gobs of steering though . The 3 gear mid motor is easyier to drive though on clay especially on dry/wet clay but with less steering doesn't squat as much though on the rear end.

tobamiester

iTrader: (360)

Good info. I may switch the orientation and go back to 3 gear and test again this week, for comparison purposes.

likea45

iTrader: (2)

I need some advice. Bought an almost brand new V2 kit recently. Decided after reading the comments here to try it in MM3. Currently using a slightly modified associated spur as dingo spurs are back ordered into eternity. My issue is the car is slipping too much. Usually I've seen this when a slipper is too loose or the diff isn't tight enough. I've put both down to the max and on full power its taking about a second and a half to balloon the tires on power. I'm wondering what might be wrong. I will say that when trying to tighten the slipper down turning the spur does nothing. Meaning that the slipper shaft just turns with the pin inside the spur. I'm wondering if maybe the slipper isn't on right.

Any ideas would be helpful.

tc5 man

Yea the stock clutch you need to tighten down a good amount especially with mod motors. The pads might need to be cleaned off or get some B4 slipper pads that's what i did haven't ran with them yet though .

Do the hold the two Rear tires and and blip the throttle for a sec /wheelie popup method .

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Looks like using the associated pads did it. They tend to be a bit thicker than the dingo ones. Thank god for extra b44 parts laying around.

tc5 man

They worked better or no ?

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Much much better. White pad with one cream was the best configuration.

tc5 man

Oh i got the B4 tan color pads . The White ones i had on my GT2 ST a long time ago and they were good .

tc5 man

I looked at some setup sheets and noticed guys running on Clay where running 22mm F/R from 19mm/20mm stock setup ?

Dino_D

What is your question? What's the difference ride height makes?

Ride height most importantly affects the amount of weight transferred, also bump handling. Keep in mind changing ride height also alters your droop. If you change your height, you may need to readjust your droop.

On certain tracks that are high speed you want less roll. This can be achieved in 3 ways. If the track is smooth, then lowering can be done to a point. If it is rutted and bumpy, it might be necessary to compensate with oil instead, but then again, that could also alter bump handling. You can also reduce droop to prevent the weight transfer to the other end.

On technical tracks, mainly indoors (clay) where it is tight. Sometimes you want more roll to get your car to turn and have more weight transfer for grip due to lower temps. Again you can lower the oil wt, or raise the ride height slightly, or increase droop. If you increase ride height and your car starts to push, then reduce only the front droop.

tc5 man

If this helps i race at this track.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGYsTR63XAY



Actually i was going to do 30w/27.5 w shock oil with the stock springs and pistons anyways and some more ride height maybe on that.

Dino_D

At that track you can get away with running between 20-22mm height. Not sure the temps at your track. But if you are running 1.6x3 then I would suggest slightly higher oils. 27 might be too light with the amount of grip your track seems to have. What tires you using? Ions, Dirt Webs, Bar Codes?

tc5 man

Ok thanks. Right now im running 32w F/30w Rear is 32w up Front to heavy ? Actually the grip level isn't high traction its medium to low inless its wet for a while its higher traction . In the video it was dryier all day.

Last weekend i was running maintly warn Rear Ions (clay) and Ions up front with sauce on them . Tried slicks but it was to dry that day that's what everybody runs when its wetter and dryier treaded tires .

The temps inside its not cold its confortable as long as people keep the doors shut its a big building ! Most guys run B5M with the 4 gear mid motor i may go back to that from 3 gear mid motor now which i like its not as twichy.

asalas

iTrader: (3)

Hi,

I have a DEX210 rtr and was wondering if it would be good to get another Gear shaft+2 gears to my differential. I don't use the 13.5 t motor anymore as I want to fit in the 17.5 t category.

I found a post in this thread saying that the 2 shafts/4 gears setup is only good when you switch from the stock to a higher torque motor. Is that right? Can anybody give an opinion about 2 shafts/4 gears setup compared to the 1 shaft/2gears one?

Thanks

Dino_D

When you use 1 shaft / 2 gears in your diff it is lighter than the 2 shafts with 4 spider gears. But since there is less resistance, you need to use thicker diff oil to compensate for the less resistance in the gears. But really have you weight the 2 gears vs the extra oil required to fill it. It isn't that much different. Maybe a few grams. Also it is smoother with the 4 gears instead of 2. Just saying. The best thing to do would be to use the molded composite gears from the DEX410 v4. Its much lighter than the steel spider gears and shaft. Plus its cheap! Price wise.