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Old 09-30-2014, 08:32 AM   #15151
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sorry I read that wrong, been a "fun" morning, was thinking nose down.

In general for nose high I have tried:

- Moving battery weight forward on chassis
- changing front springs to a slightly lighter weight
- rear stiffer springs.

The rear stiffer springs could be that you aren't chassis slapping, but could be enough give on the springs to cause to you go nose up still. I remember this issue on an older 1/10 2wd buggy I had that was rear motor oriented and unfortunately they didn't offer any real spring selection, luckily could use AE springs.

ultimately getting that balance between front and rear springs will make a difference. That is probably a big part of it.

Nice thing though is playing with springs can be pretty quick to find the combo that works for you as well as setups out there in general that are good.

One other thing, in general are you on throttle in the air or do you let off as you leave the jump?
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:05 AM   #15152
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Thanks for the list of ideas. That is what I was hoping for. I can try all of those pretty quickly next test session.

In general I am on the throttle right until launch then I let it coast (for the two doubles). For the big table-top I coast up the ramp as otherwise I will overshoot the landing which is super hard on the car.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:13 AM   #15153
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yeah, I am pretty much like that. One thing I did notice with one set of electronics on a different vehicle is that it seemed to have a lot more free roll on the motor than my current electronics which in turn seemed to want to keep the nose up more. Basically the natural drag brake effect that particular combo had was very little and hence would kind of keep the nose up in the air more than a different combo.

and one last note, it could be that you just have that one section of the track that you have to compensate for. It may be better to tune to the 95% of the track and adjust your driving style to the 5% that is the issue.

I am kind of at that point with my Tekno and this one section that will cause me to nose over bad outside of one last thing to try (battery tray mod)
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:09 AM   #15154
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This is the long long answer to this question in terms of getting your car to jump neutrally, however it is worth the effort. I've found that if you take the time to balance your car using the methods here it will jump perfectly in most any situation:http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...links-123.html

Simply put, a well balanced car will have equal return speed upon compression. Meaning if you push the car down from the middle of the chassis until it is flat, then release, the front and rear of the car return to rest at the same speed. This generally requires a fair amount of experimentation. Everything on the car including camber links, pistons, oil, and springs will affect this somewhat. Springs are the primary variable, oil and pistons being second.

Of course you still have to hit the jump correctly. Let off the throttle a bit in the air (if you don't it will be nose high!) etc.....
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:30 PM   #15155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devin View Post
Isn't stiffer rear springs the solution to nose diving? I've seen the rear hit and pitch the car forward. It would surprise me if the rear hitting cause it to fly nose high. Would stiffer front springs would make some sense in that train of thought?

I am not noticing much chassis slap however. One of the trickier jumps is right in front of the driver stand and is a six foot high, 10 foot long ramp (big table top) and the suspension looks like it is evened out as it launches off the face and even there with the long, smooth run-up it likes to fly nose high. With the brakes I can land that one smoothly because I have a giant downside to work with.
What about your wing? It the rear down force too high? Most wings have 3 different heights you can trim. Normally the highest position with the most down force will cause you to fly nose high. Trim to 1 level down with scissors, see if it helps. Sometimes you might need to go to the lowest setting depending on your speed and jump.
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:11 PM   #15156
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@Devin: If I didn't say welcome to the DEX210 thread already, welcome! Lots of great guys with tons of Knowledge here.

I'm curious…did you buy a DEX210v2? or an Original?
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:27 AM   #15157
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Default front spindels

As im cleaning my never used desc210r, it appears the front sealed spindels would work on my dex210 just need 12mm hubs, has ne1 tried ? I didn't search for it. But I haven't seen anything on it
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:33 AM   #15158
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@TbayBucs: This should help:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...0_FrontHexMod/
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Old 10-02-2014, 09:34 AM   #15159
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I got a Rtr version of the DEX210 , Proline subarbs carbon fiber rear a chick tower and a front shock tower if you convert the front link mounts to a INTECH buggy , send me a message $175 RTR - a battery !
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Old 10-02-2014, 10:00 AM   #15160
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Thanks.

I bought a used V1 roller over the winter. It came with a ton of parts that I want for my DESC so I jumped on it despite being a V1. Been really busy, only raced it six times this year. (Not including a trophy race that claimed 100 cars last year, only to not have enough cars of 2wd buggy to field a class - was pretty miffed about that.)

It was working great until they changed the course and I haven't been able to get it dialled in yet. I am using Dino's base set-up.

Table top is still landing nose high, my best bet is to skim the top for consistency. The big long double is causing me issue with the track being rutted from the rain causing me to bottom-out, buck and slip a little, which on occasion causes me to case the landing.

Stiffer springs and a lower wicker have me nailing the really tough high-lipped double now.
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:43 PM   #15161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbaybucs View Post
As im cleaning my never used desc210r, it appears the front sealed spindels would work on my dex210 just need 12mm hubs, has ne1 tried ? I didn't search for it. But I haven't seen anything on it
Did my conversion. Really haven't had a ton of track time with it yet.

Liking the v2 alot though.

B5 Front hexes were super easy to install. Rear B5 Clamping hexes also.



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Old 10-03-2014, 03:28 PM   #15162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devin View Post
Thanks.

I bought a used V1 roller over the winter. It came with a ton of parts that I want for my DESC so I jumped on it despite being a V1. Been really busy, only raced it six times this year. (Not including a trophy race that claimed 100 cars last year, only to not have enough cars of 2wd buggy to field a class - was pretty miffed about that.)

It was working great until they changed the course and I haven't been able to get it dialled in yet. I am using Dino's base set-up.

Table top is still landing nose high, my best bet is to skim the top for consistency. The big long double is causing me issue with the track being rutted from the rain causing me to bottom-out, buck and slip a little, which on occasion causes me to case the landing.

Stiffer springs and a lower wicker have me nailing the really tough high-lipped double now.
Which version are you using of my setup? The for v1 or v2? My v2 setup has a better shock package which works better on bumpy tracks by using the 3x1.6 hole pistons (Spec B durango pistons or just drill new blanks) vs the 3x1.5mm hole pistons in my v1.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:48 AM   #15163
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Smile MM4 vs MM3

First day out with my new 210v2. Wow. Great car. Took a few hours of practice time in at SCVRC in SoCaL. My tires were not quite broken in well enough for the track but I was still somewhat fast. Averaging 17 second lap times. (track record is 14.9s I believe) Pulled a few 16.5s. Setup the car with MM3 to see how it compared to my MM4 v1 car. MM3 makes the car run very flat. It tends to jump flat, and corner pretty flat too. It can be a little hard to maneuver the car in the air using throttle and brake as this action is greatly reduced with MM3. It is not however impossible to pull the nose down with the brakes, however a fairly obvious difference to MM4. Just some notes after returning from track day...
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:54 AM   #15164
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Hey, sorry to change the subject, but I found a DEX210 V1 on ebay, brand new kit, in the box. Would it be a good idea to grab this? I have bashed for a few years and would like to try my hand at racing.

P.S. it is for like 100$
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:29 AM   #15165
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I would say that's a great deal to test the water. Later if you want you can get the extended v2 aluminum chassis and side pods for cheap.
Granted it would be cheaper to just get the v2 now if that's the direction you end up going and swap everything to v2... but if you aren't into it $100 is a better waste of money than $250 or whatever the v2's are.
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