Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Durango DEX210 Thread >

Durango DEX210 Thread

Like Tree80Likes

Durango DEX210 Thread

Reply

Old 09-24-2014, 07:01 PM
  #15121  
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
 
Redsawacs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,138
Trader Rating: 37 (97%+)
Default

what gear should I be running in 17.5...69 spur?

what spring set for the front? Hard or regular?
Redsawacs is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 10:01 PM
  #15122  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,133
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
do you have a part number by chance? I actually have an 81 for my DEX210 but I really need one for my DEX410…not sure if the shumacher would fit that car too?
I don't know about the 410 working with 4wd Schumacher spurs, but below you will find a link to one of the Schumacher spurs that works for the DEX210. Their sizes range from 83t-71t from what I see on Amain.

http://www.amain.com/Schumacher-Raci...ar-83T/p170698
EbbTide is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 10:25 PM
  #15123  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,133
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
what gear should I be running in 17.5...69 spur?

what spring set for the front? Hard or regular?
Well in 17.5, go with as small a spur and as large a pinion as you can fit with the motor and ESC temps staying in the safe range. Every bit of extra power counts in 17.5 so it will probably take you a few packs at your local track to figure out the limits of your motor and how .

I'd just start wth a 71t Schumacher spur or an RPM spur with an Exotek slipper eliminator and get a nice set of aluminum pinions from 30-38t then spend a few packs rounding your local track, changing gears and checking temps. :-)
EbbTide is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 09:21 AM
  #15124  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Ebbtide!
13Maschine is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 10:19 AM
  #15125  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
what gear should I be running in 17.5...69 spur?

what spring set for the front? Hard or regular?
Regular spring set
13Maschine is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 10:35 AM
  #15126  
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
 
Redsawacs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,138
Trader Rating: 37 (97%+)
Default

copy that....60$ is springs....sigh
Redsawacs is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 12:03 PM
  #15127  
Tech Legend
iTrader: (256)
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 31,419
Trader Rating: 256 (100%+)
Default

lol. man some of these spur gear prices are up there. wonder if there is gold hidden in em
Cain is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 12:29 PM
  #15128  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
copy that....60$ is springs....sigh
If you wanted to buy individuals you'll probably want to go with a set of springs that are one increment stiffer and one increment softer on each side to start with. Along with moving the shock positions around that should give you a good range of adjustment to start with.
13Maschine is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2014, 10:18 PM
  #15129  
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
 
Redsawacs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,138
Trader Rating: 37 (97%+)
Default

I suppose I'll be putting another order in after the car arrives! LOL

Thanks for the tips all...More to follow, I'm sure.
Redsawacs is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 11:01 AM
  #15130  
Tech Addict
 
Devin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sudbury, ON, Canada
Posts: 676
Default

I am putting together a ball diff for my DEST. the diff feels like it is rubbing against the gearbox. When I install the spur gear, I can feel certain spots where it is free and where there is excess binding. Anyone have an idea of what may be going on?

The gearboxes my DEX and DESCl go together no problem, but I bought them used. Wondering if there could be user error I am doing.
Devin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 11:17 AM
  #15131  
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,120
Default

Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
copy that....60$ is springs....sigh
You don't really need the whole set.

Kit comes with:
V1 (Light Blue Front / Light Blue Rear)
V2 (Black front / Light Blue Rear)

excluding the springs that come with your kit....

TD Progressive Springs that you should get:
Front: Light Blue, Black, Light Red, Dark Green
Rear: Black, Dark Green

You will never use springs lighter than light blue. Unless you race on hardwood or in a gym floor.

Another thing you might want to consider is a Linear Set:
TLR Low frequency TLR22 front and rear springs set.

Last edited by Dino_D; 09-26-2014 at 11:27 AM.
Dino_D is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 11:26 AM
  #15132  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,133
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Devin View Post
I am putting together a ball diff for my DEST. the diff feels like it is rubbing against the gearbox. When I install the spur gear, I can feel certain spots where it is free and where there is excess binding. Anyone have an idea of what may be going on?

The gearboxes my DEX and DESCl go together no problem, but I bought them used. Wondering if there could be user error I am doing.
Some of the older gearboxes were defective and would cause similar binding after some use. I had an issue like that with my DEX210 when I replaced a broken gearbox.

The new one caused the gears to bind when I attached the motor plate to the gearbox. The only way to prevent the binding on my old gearbox was to use red thread-lock and just leave the screws for the motor plate almost finger-tight instead of cranking it down with the hex drivers. That got rid of the majority of binding for me.

But what got rid of ALL of the binding for me was switching over to the type-b gearbox and chassis for the DEX210. Now I can crank all of the screws down and not worry about binding.
EbbTide is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 11:34 AM
  #15133  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,556
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I've also experienced these types of issues with my gearbox. Sometimes the binding is caused by using the wrong size spacer in between the motor plate and gearbox. This makes the plate tilt a bit. This is one of the reasons I like the tresrey motor plate it comes with a spacer that screws into it so you can't lose it.
13Maschine is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 12:40 PM
  #15134  
Tech Addict
 
Devin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sudbury, ON, Canada
Posts: 676
Default

This is building a brand new kit, there should be no wear. Even without the screws, just by completing the two halves there is binding. This is before a motor plate or anything comes into play.

My kit has a number of type b items, the chassis for sure. Could I be dealing with a type a gearbox?
Devin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 01:00 PM
  #15135  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
EbbTide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 4,133
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Devin View Post
This is building a brand new kit, there should be no wear. Even without the screws, just by completing the two halves there is binding. This is before a motor plate or anything comes into play.

My kit has a number of type b items, the chassis for sure. Could I be dealing with a type a gearbox?
It is possible that you are dealing with an original gearbox instead of the type b gearbox. If you want to clarify that, you should be able to tell the difference if you compare your gearbox to that of a type b gearbox. Images of those should be available on Amain's website or VIA Google for reference.

I've had brand new gearboxes create binding in the drivetrain before, so it doesn't need to be worn to cause binding. The issue is with the plastic and the mold they used for the old gearboxes. They had a tendency to warp easily which caused the binding.

If you can confirm that you do have a Type B gearbox and still experience binding, then I'd start to check all of the gears to see if there are any chips or deformities in the teeth of the idler, and diff gear
EbbTide is online now  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service