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Old 09-21-2014, 12:12 PM
  #15091  
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Looks awesome redo! Did you post this in open source durango parts thread as well? I'm sure some of those guys will want one….
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Old 09-22-2014, 05:55 AM
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So my first outing with my newly acquired dex210 and it was amazing. Had issues in qualifier 1 (blown motor). Qualifier 2 I placed 7th which would be first in B Main. After winning the B main I would start 7th in A. First lap, a gaggle of cars collected and I piloted my dex around into 2nd. From there I gave chase. Catching first with 1 minute to go (barely 2 laps left) the leader caught the pipe. I attempted to pass but also caught the pipe from dodging the leader car. As we crossed the line we were a few car lengths apart. I gave it one last shot by attempting to jump over 1st to the corner, then pivot and go. It would of been a fantastic pass but I caught the pipe just by a hair and that was it. I came home 2nd. Not bad for my first day with the dex. 2nd out of 20 something. This thing is hooked.

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Old 09-22-2014, 07:02 AM
  #15093  
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did some rebuild work on my DEX210, didn't have the right inserts to get caster to 30 degree so running 35. Any ideas on what I could change to get the same kind of "feel" to 30, if at all?
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:41 AM
  #15094  
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@cain: Are you missing the castor inserts? I've found this is something I adjust fairly often between different tracks. I usually run 25 or 30. 35 seems a bit much, what is your track surface like and what kind of tires do you run? I think the insert set is very inexpensive….
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:46 AM
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yeah, I got two vehicles here, tons of parts, and that was the thing that was missing lol.

So I am going to hunt some down see if I can get them in before saturday.

I run on really loose stuff in general, so the setup I am going to use says 30 but all I have is 35 basically.

I'll see what I can find on ebay.

One thing I noticed, I have on my main car the aluminum rear TD hubs. Very nice, but man are the inserts a real b$%Z%^$ to get in and get out. I basically had to destroy and insert to get them out. Makes me almost want to just use plastic ones.
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:05 AM
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Finally drove my dex210 on a carpet track this Saturday, and it drove like a dream. Only mods from the original RTR spec are a 17.5 turn Trinity and the Exotek RF hanger with extra anti-squat. I was running it rear-motor and I actually had to turn down the steering! What a buggy, especially for an RTR. It's a bit of a pain to wrench on, but boy does it ever corner!
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:39 AM
  #15097  
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks for info. I agree the covers go to hell around the screw holes. really sucks.
Actually, TD has a new gear cover. Running change. Its almost black in color and looks to be made of a different material. My team mate has been running this revised gear cover and it holding up pretty well.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:44 AM
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looking through my "extra" parts box of stuff, I have two black gear covers here that were for the original setup.

Any opinions Dino on the rear aluminum carriers? I am thinking of just going to plastic and selling these since they are a real pain to get the inserts to slide in and out of, not sure why.

Lastly, what are you thoughts on things to help compensate for a 35 setting versus 30?
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer77 View Post
Not to disagree with the Team Durango guys, I take a slightly different view on "ride height" that I should've fully explained.

When I think of droop screws I am thinking what I call "mechanical ride height". By allowing more or less mechanical ride height, you can influence how much weight shifts around. For example, if you allow "full droop" in the rear, then as you decellerate the rear is allowed to come up higher and more weight transfers to the front. If you limit the amount of droop in the rear, then you can keep the weight lower on decelleration and transfer less weight to the front. The same effect happens left/right across the car as you corner.

When adjusting the preload collars on the shocks, I am adjusting "suspension sag" and spring preload.

My "running ride height" winds up being a net effect of these two. Maximum and minimum "mechanical ride height" can also be adjusted via shock travel limiters, but I'm sure that's covered elsewhere.

On my track and for my driving style...I prefer to minimize weight transferring around.

I have my max ride height set at 23/25. Loaded up race ready, I run ~1mm sag in front and ~2mm sag in rear. My running ride height ~22fr/23rear.

I hope all of that makes sense.
Droop suppose to be measured as the amount the chassis rises from normal static ride height. That's how the on road guys do it. If you lower your cars ride height, you should technically adjust your droop to compensate so the amount of up travel remains the same. Otherwise, if you lower your car to adjust the CG, but droop increases, you add more weight transfer to each end. But it seems in off-road the droop is measure from the top of the shock to the bottom of the shock length and with that being adjusted via shock limiters or droop screws.

With that being said, in the 210, I normally run 21-22mm ride height, max droop in the rear, and I adjust the front droop to give me more or less steering response. Reduce the front droop to make the car turn in faster and have better response. If you limit the droop too much, the car doesn't handle the ruts and bumps well. You can reduce a lot more droop if you are running on a ultra smooth track or astro or carpet tracks.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:18 AM
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-upgraded.html
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:19 AM
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Thanks Dino. I'm sure I'm using the terminology all wrong...but in my twisted mind it makes reasonable sense.

So, if you are running max droop in the rear and a 22mm ride height, then you probably have ~4-5mm of "sag" in the rear suspension from it's full extended position? What piston and oil weight combo are you running in the rear?
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer77 View Post
Thanks Dino. I'm sure I'm using the terminology all wrong...but in my twisted mind it makes reasonable sense.

So, if you are running max droop in the rear and a 22mm ride height, then you probably have ~4-5mm of "sag" in the rear suspension from it's full extended position? What piston and oil weight combo are you running in the rear?
I wasn't correcting your terminology. I was just saying how on-road and off-road measure droop is different. LOL..

Actually I have a lot of sag. (LOL, that didn't sound right)..

Anyways, I have to measure my droop at home. LOL But I am sure I have more than you. Probably around 10mm .

DEX410v4 (Stock Spring)
Temps:
28C - 2x1.6 F 42wt / 2x1.7 R 32wt
22C - 2x1.6 F 40wt / 2x1.7 R 30wt
16C - 2x1.6 F 37wt / 2x1.7 R 37wt

DEX210v2 (Stock Spring)
Temps:
28C - 3x1.6 F 37wt / 3x1.6 R 32wt
22C - 3x1.6 F 35wt / 3x1.6 R 30wt
16C - 3x1.6 F 32wt / 3x1.6 R 27wt
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:19 AM
  #15103  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D View Post
Actually, TD has a new gear cover. Running change. Its almost black in color and looks to be made of a different material. My team mate has been running this revised gear cover and it holding up pretty well.
My new DEX210v2 kit came with the new gear cover. It's slightly larger in size than the first version although it kinda seems like the same material as before. It's nice that it at least fits over the gears!

I'll bug the guys over in vacuum forming to see if they can make something for us! We need a gear cover that fits with all the slipper/gear options, like MM3/4, RM3/4, and the avid slipper.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:38 AM
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I'd be game for that or even an exotek style cover that fits the avid setup.

I got a bunch of regular spurs on the way to try in a variety of sizes as I need to run RM and it gets so loamy out here that you need an effective gear cover.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:47 AM
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I run the Exotek cover but I also still have the stock slipper. I honestly see no reason to change it.
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