Durango DEX210 Thread
Regardless which config, avid slipper needs avid cover.
Anyhow, you have more rear grip in RM. I think slipper performance of the avid is better in MM mode, when you want the slipper action to be smoother. Sure the avid is great in RM as well, but the covers just don't last, hence why I opted for the metal one and using a standard slipper.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
thanks for info. I agree the covers go to hell around the screw holes. really sucks.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (55)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
Tech Addict
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
@ Nick, good luck!!! it's a long journey of fustration and headaches, but when you cut your first part it is worth it!!!!!
Tech Adept
V2 build
When building the V2. I have a base set up sheet. It says to use maximum droop for the front and rear arms. Does it mean droop screws fully down or up. If I let the front arms fully droop my front ride height is in the mid to high 20's. Am I doing something wrong with the build? The set up sheet suggest a 19 ride height for the front.
Instructions are just for basic assembly. Set ride height with droop screws per setup you want to start with. I'm running 23 front 25 rear on mine at the moment.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
When building the V2. I have a base set up sheet. It says to use maximum droop for the front and rear arms. Does it mean droop screws fully down or up. If I let the front arms fully droop my front ride height is in the mid to high 20's. Am I doing something wrong with the build? The set up sheet suggest a 19 ride height for the front.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
Just built a v2. Have an issue, maybe an old one.
Driveshaft on left appears to be hitting the diff-nut (in the outdrive on the left) when holding the car off the ground.
I've put the TD330377 Alum hubs on it. I'd tried it with the stock v2 hubs and it didn't seem to be any better. Any ideas?
Driveshaft on left appears to be hitting the diff-nut (in the outdrive on the left) when holding the car off the ground.
I've put the TD330377 Alum hubs on it. I'd tried it with the stock v2 hubs and it didn't seem to be any better. Any ideas?
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Just built a v2. Have an issue, maybe an old one.
Driveshaft on left appears to be hitting the diff-nut (in the outdrive on the left) when holding the car off the ground.
I've put the TD330377 Alum hubs on it. I'd tried it with the stock v2 hubs and it didn't seem to be any better. Any ideas?
Driveshaft on left appears to be hitting the diff-nut (in the outdrive on the left) when holding the car off the ground.
I've put the TD330377 Alum hubs on it. I'd tried it with the stock v2 hubs and it didn't seem to be any better. Any ideas?
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
Not to disagree with the Team Durango guys, I take a slightly different view on "ride height" that I should've fully explained.
When I think of droop screws I am thinking what I call "mechanical ride height". By allowing more or less mechanical ride height, you can influence how much weight shifts around. For example, if you allow "full droop" in the rear, then as you decellerate the rear is allowed to come up higher and more weight transfers to the front. If you limit the amount of droop in the rear, then you can keep the weight lower on decelleration and transfer less weight to the front. The same effect happens left/right across the car as you corner.
When adjusting the preload collars on the shocks, I am adjusting "suspension sag" and spring preload.
My "running ride height" winds up being a net effect of these two. Maximum and minimum "mechanical ride height" can also be adjusted via shock travel limiters, but I'm sure that's covered elsewhere.
On my track and for my driving style...I prefer to minimize weight transferring around.
I have my max ride height set at 23/25. Loaded up race ready, I run ~1mm sag in front and ~2mm sag in rear. My running ride height ~22fr/23rear.
I hope all of that makes sense.
When I think of droop screws I am thinking what I call "mechanical ride height". By allowing more or less mechanical ride height, you can influence how much weight shifts around. For example, if you allow "full droop" in the rear, then as you decellerate the rear is allowed to come up higher and more weight transfers to the front. If you limit the amount of droop in the rear, then you can keep the weight lower on decelleration and transfer less weight to the front. The same effect happens left/right across the car as you corner.
When adjusting the preload collars on the shocks, I am adjusting "suspension sag" and spring preload.
My "running ride height" winds up being a net effect of these two. Maximum and minimum "mechanical ride height" can also be adjusted via shock travel limiters, but I'm sure that's covered elsewhere.
On my track and for my driving style...I prefer to minimize weight transferring around.
I have my max ride height set at 23/25. Loaded up race ready, I run ~1mm sag in front and ~2mm sag in rear. My running ride height ~22fr/23rear.
I hope all of that makes sense.
Awesome thank u Wander 77 and 13machine. I'll try both. For now I used a exotek 20 gram weight in the back through the lower wing mount using a zip tie. Is it me or does the mm3 (even on loose clay/dirt) still feel like it hauls out of the corners more than mm4. I guess the polarity of the motor has a lot to do with it.