Should 1:10 4WD be more like 1:8?
12-16-2009, 02:08 PM
#16
Tech Addict
Ive had some big crashes with my B44, but it never breaks anymore.
Does the rpm ball-cups prevent parts from breaking, and that's why people use them?
I broke a rear shock tower on my 501x, but it was from landing from a tripple
and landing directly on a metal post used to hold the track down. I knew it
was gonna break from that, and the sound from an aluminum bulkhead hitting
metal "DING" doesnt sound good at all. I knew I broke something when you
heard that sound echo the entire building. The stress from that landing transfered directly to the shock tower.
The B44 is so much like an 8th scale already. Everything is in the center.
And all the weight is in the rear. My 501x seems the same, just the motor position is different.
12-16-2009, 02:16 PM
#17
I haven't broken a B44 front arm instantly in a while, but I did notice one thing peculiar that the location that USED to break a lot, develops a small fracture, little by little, until it completely breaks...
Again, it doesn't instantly break, but you might want to check your arms for small fracture from time to time.
The location I speak of is the little area where the little nub is to attach the ball cup on the arm-side for the sway bars...
I have broken a rear arm though. It was surprising, but it did break...
The WONDERFUL thing about B44 front arms is that you get a set of hingepins with it... It's kinda cool... A lot of times, broken arm component = bent hingepins
Again, it doesn't instantly break, but you might want to check your arms for small fracture from time to time.
The location I speak of is the little area where the little nub is to attach the ball cup on the arm-side for the sway bars...
I have broken a rear arm though. It was surprising, but it did break...
The WONDERFUL thing about B44 front arms is that you get a set of hingepins with it... It's kinda cool... A lot of times, broken arm component = bent hingepins
12-16-2009, 02:40 PM
#18
Yes and No.
There are some desighn features in 1/8th that would be nice to see in 4x4, but the class has survived this long and is finally making a comeback. So it would probally be best to stay within the current Ifmar, Roar rules.
So that rules out making the front tires wider and the rear narrower right? seems like the fronts do all the work in 4x4. It would be nice to see some wider front tires/wheels anyway. Even if they weren't legal, as long as they weren't too overdone theyd be allowed at most club tracks and maybe be adopted by roar/ifmar. Kinda like Aka's slightly large tires. If it proves to be a good thing maybe the rules would change.
The center diff wouln't work unless it locked completely under power. Otherwise these little cars would send all the power to the allready overloaded front tires. So as long as you have enough offpower steering, and smooth steering and sidebite in sweepers, the center diff would be near useless. The gear diff is a cool idea. The Durango Dex has em.
Soft spring stiff bar setups would be nice.
I like the idea of the battery on one side and the electronics on the other like the E8, Rc8e, and Kyosho's 4wd sp car.
Allready have yokomo big bores so we're good there.
How about droop screws?
How long before Yokomo or Xray make a 1/8th scale belt drive car? This can go both ways right?
It would be nice if they'd quit with the darn ultra compact chassis. There is no harm in making the car as wide as a b4 so we can actully fit electronics on it.
As for durability the cars seem fine on indoor 1/10th scale tracks where they belong. Ungroomed outdoor tracks belong to 1/8th scale. I'm hanging up all my 1/10th stuff when summer comes. my 1/10th is for smmooth, small jump indoor tracks, but my heart lies in 1/8th for outdoors. Running 1/10th on big bumpy tracks is a joke.
I'd be all over that Durango Dex410 if I wasn't allready building an E809. But i'm still not to cool about the whole skinny/tinhy chassis bit.
There are some desighn features in 1/8th that would be nice to see in 4x4, but the class has survived this long and is finally making a comeback. So it would probally be best to stay within the current Ifmar, Roar rules.
So that rules out making the front tires wider and the rear narrower right? seems like the fronts do all the work in 4x4. It would be nice to see some wider front tires/wheels anyway. Even if they weren't legal, as long as they weren't too overdone theyd be allowed at most club tracks and maybe be adopted by roar/ifmar. Kinda like Aka's slightly large tires. If it proves to be a good thing maybe the rules would change.
The center diff wouln't work unless it locked completely under power. Otherwise these little cars would send all the power to the allready overloaded front tires. So as long as you have enough offpower steering, and smooth steering and sidebite in sweepers, the center diff would be near useless. The gear diff is a cool idea. The Durango Dex has em.
Soft spring stiff bar setups would be nice.
I like the idea of the battery on one side and the electronics on the other like the E8, Rc8e, and Kyosho's 4wd sp car.
Allready have yokomo big bores so we're good there.
How about droop screws?
How long before Yokomo or Xray make a 1/8th scale belt drive car? This can go both ways right?
It would be nice if they'd quit with the darn ultra compact chassis. There is no harm in making the car as wide as a b4 so we can actully fit electronics on it.
As for durability the cars seem fine on indoor 1/10th scale tracks where they belong. Ungroomed outdoor tracks belong to 1/8th scale. I'm hanging up all my 1/10th stuff when summer comes. my 1/10th is for smmooth, small jump indoor tracks, but my heart lies in 1/8th for outdoors. Running 1/10th on big bumpy tracks is a joke.
I'd be all over that Durango Dex410 if I wasn't allready building an E809. But i'm still not to cool about the whole skinny/tinhy chassis bit.
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