Kyosho DBX VE

Old 12-12-2009, 12:16 AM
  #1  
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Default Kyosho DBX VE

im looking into buying a kyosho dbx ve. im not a serious racer, but i do enjoy going to the track occasionally, parts are not a problem because my lhs stocks alot of kyosho. what i want to know if anyone here owns one and could tell me its flaws. i.e. handling, parts breaking etc..

thanks
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:15 PM
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JSR
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I have the nitro DBX converted to brushless. All parts except for the chassis (different drilled holes), brushless setup, and some supports (like the steering top plate, battery tray support, and servo supports), are identical.

I've beat the crap out of my DBXe and have had no serious problems. It's landed on concrete on it's lid, hit a tree a couple of times in mid air, and other horrid landings, tumbles, and everything and it keeps going. I've broken arms twice so far, the first time was hitting a curb directly on the wheel at full speed (I'm geared for about 38mph) and broke the lower arm. Second, I hit a rock (larger than the DBX itself) at full speed again directly on the wheel and broke both upper and lower arms. Other than that, no problems.

Handling is pretty sharp and crisp. It's very light so it's pretty agile. The stock tires are pretty soft, but grippy. On loose dirt and pavement, it works well. At my local tracks, it slips around as the tracks tend to be hard packed dirt with a bit of loose top soil so the stock tires with large round nubs and lots of space in between don't work as well. To improve handling, you can buy the 17mm hex adapter (Kyosho calls it wheel stopper I think) set that lets you run 1/8 buggy wheels. This improves handling a lot and makes it even crisper.

In size, it's almost the same size as a 1/8 buggy. It's 20mm shorter in wheelbase and about 25mm wider than a 1/8 buggy. With 1/8 buggy wheels, it's the same width, so it's just 20mm shorter in wheelbase. It will still look a little smaller than a 1/8 buggy if you run the 1/8 buggy wheels, but that's only because the wing mount is shorter and the wing is smaller. If you change those, it will look almost exactly like a 1/8 buggy. It fits within ROAR 1/8 buggy class rules except for the min weight (it's lighter than what ROAR allows). But for just running at the local track, you should be able to just run in 1/8 buggy class. It's MUCH lighter compared to a 1/8 buggy. I've picked up a Kyosho Inferno VE and a DBX VE at the same time and it feels almost half the weight. I believe the Inferno VE is close to 9lbs, while the DBX VE is only about 5lbs or less.

The stock servo has been fine for me. It has enough torque to turn the wheels fine and seems very responsive.

The motor is a 2800kV motor, NOT the 3720kV that Kyosho's website lists. I prefer the 2800kV motor as it will have more torque and run cooler with more runtime than the original 3720kV they listed. I would recommend running it on 3s as that would be perfect on the 2800kV motor. On 2s, the motor's spinning a bit slow and top speed won't be very high. I keep up with 1/8 nitro buggies on my DBXe.

The stock shocks are very smooth, but on really bad landings, the shafts will bend. It's easy to straighten them though. The stock springs are very soft. Fine for bashing and 1/10 tracks, but for large jumps and 1/8 tracks you might want a bit stiffer springs.

The drivetrain setup is identical to a 1/8 buggy with 3 diffs, all sealed, and rebuildable. I run 5/5/3 in mine. The diffs come with 2 main gears and 2 spider gears. I picked up extra gears and gear shafts to make it a full 4 spider gears, but it's not really needed. I just wanted to beef up the diffs some since I run a Medusa 3300kV motor in mind which is more powerful than the 2800kV that comes with the DBX VE.

The dogbones (center and wheels) are somewhat thin and can bend. It's not hard to straighten them. I've only had 1 bend slightly...barely can notice it. I didn't bother restraightening it since it doesn't affect anything. If you tombstone it off a 15ft+ jump onto concrete, one of the center dogbones will bend along with the chassis (I believe stock chassis is stamped 6061 T6 aluminum). But with that bad of a landing, I'd expect something like that to happen. There's an optional CNC 7075 chassis for the nitro DBX, so I would think one will be available shortly for the DBX VE also. I haven't found the need for an upgraded chassis yet. The tombstone landing thing wasn't with my DBX (luckily).

The stock body is nice looking IMO. It's narrow and similar in appearance to the HB Ve8.

I had a design drawn up for 5mm thick aluminum shock towers, but it didn't grab any interest so I didn't make any. I also had a prelim chassis designed that's full 1/8 buggy sized. Maybe the DBX VE will catch on more than the nitro version did and if there's demand for these parts, I'll make them as I wanted them for myself, but couldn't get the price down enough if I just made one set for myself.

I can't think of anything else right now. If you have questions, feel free to ask. Again, I have a converted DBXe, but I've seen the DBX VE at my LHS plenty of times.
HTH.
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JSR View Post
I have the nitro DBX converted to brushless. All parts except for the chassis (different drilled holes), brushless setup, and some supports (like the steering top plate, battery tray support, and servo supports), are identical.

I've beat the crap out of my DBXe and have had no serious problems. It's landed on concrete on it's lid, hit a tree a couple of times in mid air, and other horrid landings, tumbles, and everything and it keeps going. I've broken arms twice so far, the first time was hitting a curb directly on the wheel at full speed (I'm geared for about 38mph) and broke the lower arm. Second, I hit a rock (larger than the DBX itself) at full speed again directly on the wheel and broke both upper and lower arms. Other than that, no problems.

Handling is pretty sharp and crisp. It's very light so it's pretty agile. The stock tires are pretty soft, but grippy. On loose dirt and pavement, it works well. At my local tracks, it slips around as the tracks tend to be hard packed dirt with a bit of loose top soil so the stock tires with large round nubs and lots of space in between don't work as well. To improve handling, you can buy the 17mm hex adapter (Kyosho calls it wheel stopper I think) set that lets you run 1/8 buggy wheels. This improves handling a lot and makes it even crisper.

In size, it's almost the same size as a 1/8 buggy. It's 20mm shorter in wheelbase and about 25mm wider than a 1/8 buggy. With 1/8 buggy wheels, it's the same width, so it's just 20mm shorter in wheelbase. It will still look a little smaller than a 1/8 buggy if you run the 1/8 buggy wheels, but that's only because the wing mount is shorter and the wing is smaller. If you change those, it will look almost exactly like a 1/8 buggy. It fits within ROAR 1/8 buggy class rules except for the min weight (it's lighter than what ROAR allows). But for just running at the local track, you should be able to just run in 1/8 buggy class. It's MUCH lighter compared to a 1/8 buggy. I've picked up a Kyosho Inferno VE and a DBX VE at the same time and it feels almost half the weight. I believe the Inferno VE is close to 9lbs, while the DBX VE is only about 5lbs or less.

The stock servo has been fine for me. It has enough torque to turn the wheels fine and seems very responsive.

The motor is a 2800kV motor, NOT the 3720kV that Kyosho's website lists. I prefer the 2800kV motor as it will have more torque and run cooler with more runtime than the original 3720kV they listed. I would recommend running it on 3s as that would be perfect on the 2800kV motor. On 2s, the motor's spinning a bit slow and top speed won't be very high. I keep up with 1/8 nitro buggies on my DBXe.

The stock shocks are very smooth, but on really bad landings, the shafts will bend. It's easy to straighten them though. The stock springs are very soft. Fine for bashing and 1/10 tracks, but for large jumps and 1/8 tracks you might want a bit stiffer springs.

The drivetrain setup is identical to a 1/8 buggy with 3 diffs, all sealed, and rebuildable. I run 5/5/3 in mine. The diffs come with 2 main gears and 2 spider gears. I picked up extra gears and gear shafts to make it a full 4 spider gears, but it's not really needed. I just wanted to beef up the diffs some since I run a Medusa 3300kV motor in mind which is more powerful than the 2800kV that comes with the DBX VE.

The dogbones (center and wheels) are somewhat thin and can bend. It's not hard to straighten them. I've only had 1 bend slightly...barely can notice it. I didn't bother restraightening it since it doesn't affect anything. If you tombstone it off a 15ft+ jump onto concrete, one of the center dogbones will bend along with the chassis (I believe stock chassis is stamped 6061 T6 aluminum). But with that bad of a landing, I'd expect something like that to happen. There's an optional CNC 7075 chassis for the nitro DBX, so I would think one will be available shortly for the DBX VE also. I haven't found the need for an upgraded chassis yet. The tombstone landing thing wasn't with my DBX (luckily).

The stock body is nice looking IMO. It's narrow and similar in appearance to the HB Ve8.

I had a design drawn up for 5mm thick aluminum shock towers, but it didn't grab any interest so I didn't make any. I also had a prelim chassis designed that's full 1/8 buggy sized. Maybe the DBX VE will catch on more than the nitro version did and if there's demand for these parts, I'll make them as I wanted them for myself, but couldn't get the price down enough if I just made one set for myself.

I can't think of anything else right now. If you have questions, feel free to ask. Again, I have a converted DBXe, but I've seen the DBX VE at my LHS plenty of times.
HTH.
wow, u pretty much answered all my questions and more! im definately getting the dbx ve now. thanks
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:20 PM
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Hi JSR,
thanks for your very insightful sharing of the DBX. I just purchased a DBX VE2.0 on Monday and am getting acquainted with the vehicle. Despite being the humor of many experienced racers on the track i'm trying to get the feel of the car as it seems to be oversteering too much for my liking.

Perhaps i should try your recommendation of using the 1/8 sized tyres to accommodate the very loose gravel track that i've been playing on.

Will most likely be in touch for more hints and tips.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:42 PM
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thicker oil in the front and rear diff will slow the action down and lower the over steer although thicker oil in the rear will cause it to over steer more coming out of corners it will straighten the car out going into them. You can also use a thinner center diff oil to transfer more power to the front which will cause the car to understeer more coming out of the corners as the rear tires will not want to break traction as easy.

Thicker swaybars on the front or softer in the rear will also tighten the car up. There are many different ways to combat over steer and under steer. Its all about keeping a good balance and not letting the weight of the chassis build up too much momentum while its transitioning from one side of the car to the other.
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