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Old 11-18-2005, 07:28 AM   #541
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TravyMoto1, I have always used the Mugen greys, so I can't tell you the real difference. I bench tested a few springs before hitting the track.

Here is my "theory", I like the oil to control the chassis at a certain amount of resistance that just feels right to me(for a first set up on any car). I used 50 front and 40 wt oil at first, with 1.4 mugen pistons and with the dk blue springs and it felt good, but too slow(damping). So I went to 40 ft and 30 rear and it felt too "springy".....When I tried the mugen springs with the 40/30 it felt like it would be close on the track, so I went with it and have only been moving the oils around a little since.

I know, it's alot of testing and tuning for a car that had not left the bench at that point, LOL. But it always works for me!

...., Jim
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Old 11-18-2005, 09:32 AM   #542
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Default xray truggy

hi all:don't know if this question has been asked or not,but here goes anyways.does xray have any plans on releasing a truggy version of their xb8 1/8th 4wd nitro buggy.trugies are all the rage right now and i think it would be a nice addition.
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Old 11-18-2005, 11:18 AM   #543
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Jim,

I definately appreciate the input...it makes sence.

Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:58 PM   #544
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Default xb8 versus the xb8r...

what are the differeneces?
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Old 12-01-2005, 08:52 PM   #545
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Tmachine, the R has less expensive CVD's, the no bling shock towers and composite chassis braces.

...Jim
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Old 12-02-2005, 06:40 AM   #546
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Here's a link to all the parts that you need to upgrade the xb8r to xb8 spec:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...&kategoria=616
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:57 PM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Tmachine, the R has less expensive CVD's, the no bling shock towers and composite chassis braces.

...Jim
Not only that...it has softer a-arms, softer springs, , smaller spur, larger pinion, and way less adjustments. I am not nocking Xray at all, but if I could do it all over again....I would just buy the XB8...not the R. I have spent plenty of time and money trying to get my R spec to respond like a regular kit.
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:12 AM   #548
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True, those items are different also. I did forget about the spur and pinion, but the arms and springs are something we should all have as spares.

Alot of XB8 racers are changing to the softer long arms from the "R" model though. Not me, but some are, ha.

...Jim
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:18 AM   #549
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Default xb8

my xb8 should be arriving soon... never ran gas before!!!!! will visit you guys on here soon, just been lingering in the on-road area for too long now...
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:42 AM   #550
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dal, ya, on road is so much fine to drive, but it is starting to feel like you need a team of 5 mechanics to race it competitively. Wait, Masami did that and still didn't win. LOL

Seems way to serious for a way to have fun on the weekends. Off road is more laid back.....Way more.

imo, Jim
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Old 12-03-2005, 10:51 AM   #551
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WJ--yup, I live out in the country, so I would never run the on-road car outside, it would sit around for the weekend and I dont race every weekend. With this I can setup a little track next to the house and just mess around anytime....
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Old 12-04-2005, 03:22 PM   #552
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I just received a parts order and put Rich P.'s Odonnel Champs setup on the car. I'm going to try it in Daytona at the State Series race. On the bench is feels way better...can't wait to get it on the track.

Jim,

I have an engine issue that maybe you can help me out with? I can't seem to get the tune just right. The top end seems good and rips, but even with the low end a bit boggy....the idle just doesn't seem right.After some throttle imput it takes a 3-5 seconds to get back to a regular idle. My first thought is to richen the low-end, but like I said it all ready hesitates for a second before it gets up on the pipe. Is the top to lean?

Thanks for anyone who wants to chime in.
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Old 12-04-2005, 04:42 PM   #553
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Can any one tell me the best place to get an xb8r in canada.

Ta
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Old 12-04-2005, 07:55 PM   #554
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barty, you can get one thru B&B hobbies here in Florida, they ship all over and keep them in stock usually. Do a google on the name B&B hobbies hudson Florida.

Travy, After revving and clearing out is the engine idling high and comes down slowly for a few seconds before it stablizes? If it does it is too rich on the bottom and the idle screw is turned in(higher) to keep it running at low speeds.

If your temps are good you are too lean on top and keeping it cool with the bottom, so be ready to reset the top to. You can get the bottom close on the bench by setting it leaner until the idle begins to stay high, then lower the idle speed needle, recheck. Once it drops right to idle speed and then lowers just a little more after 4 or 5 seconds your close.

Then run it on the track and recheck the top needle. I think it will be lean?

Hope this helps, Jim
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:30 PM   #555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Travy, After revving and clearing out is the engine idling high and comes down slowly for a few seconds before it stablizes? If it does it is too rich on the bottom and the idle screw is turned in(higher) to keep it running at low speeds.

If your temps are good you are too lean on top and keeping it cool with the bottom, so be ready to reset the top to. You can get the bottom close on the bench by setting it leaner until the idle begins to stay high, then lower the idle speed needle, recheck. Once it drops right to idle speed and then lowers just a little more after 4 or 5 seconds your close.

Then run it on the track and recheck the top needle. I think it will be lean?

Hope this helps, Jim
Jim,

yes that helps a bunch. I will try and apply it tommorow.

Thanks,
Travis
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