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Old 02-17-2004, 02:16 PM   #16
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Ritchie, Sorry man but you got the wrong guy! i have never been to tacoma! or a TCS race, i do have a F-201 though, I race that and my TC-3's mostly parking lot races, stock 19T & mod. must be another charlie, maybe charlie B. glad to here you got your motor dialed though.
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:53 PM   #17
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I B Racin, I didn't mean that the 19Turn is the fastest motor, I meant that they set some of the fastest lap/race times out there (Touring Cars) in Ca it's an open class although mostly high sportsman and experts. and the times are faster than nitro or mod on a small or medium size track. yeah you are right most people can't handle a full on mod motor, some times more is not better.
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:37 PM   #18
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OK,
Here's where I'm at. I took advice from many of you and bought a "BRAND NEW FACTORY MATCHED GP3300 SET (GP rated at 1.17volts or better)" that's the description off of eBay and it is from cheapbatterypacks.com, here's the link [url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3176523073&category=34 063&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1 it will be here in a couple of days. It includes 1 foot each of red and black of 14 gauge wire, shrink wrap and a Tamiya plug. How the heck do I put these things together, is that everything I need, will I have to solder them together? Haven't decided on a motor yet but will in a day or two. What's the deal with the P2K and P2K2, the R/C shop here says the P2K is torquey and the P2K2 is a high RPM motor, is this right or do they have it backwards. As far as charging goes so far on my 1500 cheapy batteries my Vision Peak 2 charger has 1, 2, and 4 amp settings. I guess I should charge at 4 amps if you guys are saying charge as close to 5 amps as possible. In all honesty I thought a slow charge was better on batteries, DUH, remember this is all new to me. Awesome info so far guys, thank you very much, Mike.
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:05 PM   #19
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The battery you bought should work well for what you are doing. Next time though you may want to get it all assembled if you are not sure how to put it together. If the tamiya plug isn't already attached to the wires you may want alittle help with that. OR, and this is something better to do, go to your local hobby shop and get them to replace all your connectors with Power poles or deans.

Those connectors won't melt like a tamiya plug. I personally like powerpoles as they are very easy to assemble if you don't have any help. But Deans are good too.

For motors, if you definitely want a stock motor for the torque, I personally like the MVP but the P2k or P2k2 ( go with the P2k2 ) would work well.

When you charge your GP3300 pack for the first time, make sure to check its temperature while you are charging it. It shouldn't get as warm as the nicads do. Those cells don't like that much heat. Charge them at 4 amps and you should be A-ok.

Do you plan to do anything more than just bashing with this or do you think you may want to eventually race?
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:48 PM   #20
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Yah,
This is just a basher for around the neighborhood, if I decide to race I'll probably race the GS Storm Pro. As far as the batteries yes they are loose cells that come supplied with wire, shrink wrap, and tamaya plug. I'm not too concerned about it being difficult to put them together I just need to know how and if I have everything I need. Do I solder them, someone mentioned battery bones??? Haven't decided on a motor yet but roadragehobbies has free shipping, that's a nice $6.00 savings, and I was checking out the 19t spec motors because of the amount of replies suggesting them for having lots of torque. I clicked on the specs for the Team Orion Element 19T Spec Motor and it said "This motor may be used with any electric car or truck that has gears strong enough to handle 19 turn motors." What's this mean, does this mean I'm gonna start breaking parts with a 19t spec motor or a 17t motor as opposed to say a 27 turn stocker. I just want a basher for around the neighborhood. I'd like to stick to just working on the GS Storm Pro.
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:55 PM   #21
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If you go to cheapbatterypacks.com you can order packs with your chose of plug ready to go, I think for about 35.00 per pack.

I B..
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Old 02-17-2004, 08:18 PM   #22
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i race offroad and we have a 19t spec class. as for it compared to stock motors we just had a big race and only ran stock and mod. the mod motors are to a point just as fast top end wise geared low but as everyone mentioned the 19t has tons of torque. because these motors are made for a special class and can't be tampered with they tune them for the most power. they run equal to a 14t motor and with the reallllly good batteries and spring changes they have kept up with 12 t motors. in offroad buggies. i am not saying your truck will go this fast but i will say it will be more then you can handle to start off with. as for chargers i agree with the mrc chargers although i dont have one nor would i buy one for my use for bashing around i dont think you can beat the price. as cain and myself mentioned the xl-1 is not really a good speedcontrol. you will notice a difference right off the bat with a better speed control. i would say do that before you even get a motor. you might see your motor is sufficient for now and move up later on when you can save up some more money.
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Last edited by mstng87gt; 02-21-2004 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 02-17-2004, 10:47 PM   #23
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Oh crap,
After trying to find info on assembling these cells for a battery pack I don't see anything about making a "stick pack" out of them, everything is about making "flat packs". Is it possible to make "stick packs" out of loose cells or will a flat pack work in the Stampede and is this what I do??? HELP
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Old 02-18-2004, 06:25 AM   #24
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You should be fine with either of the 19T motors that I recommend. As long as your truck came with the slipper clutch, I don't foresee a problem with the gears. There are upgrades you may eventually want for strength, check RPMs website for these. The bumper is a good start.

You can make a stick pack, you will just need a stick pack building kit, I believe trinity sells one Or you can tear apart one of your current sport packs if you know its no good, use the end caps and put it together that way, just get some shrink wrap at your hobby shop.

You should see if your hobby shop will assemble them for you, Its not hard but if you know someone who knows what they are doing, watch them do it for the first pack and go from there.
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Old 02-19-2004, 01:39 AM   #25
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Hey Cain,
Thanks for the tip on the roadragehobbies about getting a motor for my gutless Stampede. I don't see the Quad Mag like you mentioned on that site but do like their prices and free shipping. Can you OR ANY ONE ELSE maybe suggest a good 19t spec motor off of www.roadragehobbies.com that is reasonably priced for what you get. Also tell me what I need along with the motor. Will I need motor leads, capacitors? Do I use the leads off of the original Stinger motor?Is the Trinity Monsters of Touring 19T Double Motor or the Team Orion 19x2 Havok Motor any good, wow they're only $17.50 and the Havok says it needs nothing and comes with motor leads. I wouldn't mind spending more but I was just wondering if they are any good at that price, why so cheap. Thanks a lot, Mike.
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Old 02-19-2004, 06:54 AM   #26
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For the Quad Mag motor, you will need to contact them direct ( via email or a phone call, email may be better ).

The Monster of touring motor is a closed endbell ( non-rebuildable ) bushing equipped motor. Its old technology and I don't recommend it even for bashing. The Havoc motor is what they include with the Duratrax pro electric RTRs. If they are rebuildable, you could look into those.

My main thing is that the motor should be rebuildable so that you can get the comm cut and keep it at peak performance. This is easier to do with rebuildable motors. I know of lots of hobby shops who don't have the lathes anymore to cut stock comms.

Plus, I like the fact that the Quad Mag and Dynasty/Element motor have fixed timing. Just one less thing to mess with. I am not sure if the havoc has this.

So for you, I still say get the Quad Mag or the Element motor. You should also see what prices they have on batteries there too. If you are wanting some good sport packs let me know. I have some that I race in our spec class that are really powerful that I am thinking of selling since I mainly run pro now or modified monster truck.

One other motor that I am liking after alittle tinkering with for truck is our Street Spec motor. We run this for our spec truck class and when you put different springs and silver slotted brushes it works really good. Lots of power. Not as fast as say the Quad Mag or other 19T motors, but a whole lot more power than a Stinger. Also, it is very easy on the comm so it won't need a rebuild any time soon. But, its still made by trinity
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Do you have the link to the auction you won with the stampede and all it came with? If you want I can look more into some good strengthening hopups for you and see where the cheapest you can find them at.
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Old 02-19-2004, 07:13 AM   #27
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Personally, I run connectors other than the stock leads. I prefer sermos powerpole connectors as they are easy to assemble and you can run one wire one way and the other another way without having both going to where you want like deans. But, a lot of people just direct solder the wires to the motor which is a nice way to go, probably better. For me, I change my motor often and at our track we don't have alot of time between heats .

I would say ditch the bullet connectors and just directly solder the motor wires to the motor.
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Old 02-19-2004, 07:37 AM   #28
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One other thing you should try with your current batteries is charge them all the way up till they are warm. Try and see what numbers are on them when they peak out ( charging ends ) and write that down and post that here. Get the peak voltage and the amount of time it took to charge.

Then, you should run the battery in your vehicle till it starts to slow down significantly. You will notice the drop off. try and time this as well. You should easily get 5 minutes if the batteries are ok.

For a more correct analysis of your batteries, you can buy a battery discharge set, some light bulbs with a cut off device, they go for about 15 dollars online and after you charge up the packs, discharge them using this device and time the discharge. Try to have a fan blowing air on the batteries when you do this.

In general this will give about a 20amp discharge rate. at 4 amps charge rate you should get at least 5 minutes of runtime or very close. Most guys at our track still run the 1500s for the spec class and get way more than that.

When you get your new battery pack ready to go, make sure that you follow the charging instructions that companies like ZX Racing recommends. Don't do the leave some charge on the pack method. You will lose runtime, trust me, I KNOW ( gone through about 6 sets of batteries because of the bad info ).

So for you here is what I would get on the cheap:

1. Discharge kit ( lights and a cutoff device ).
2. Bettery connectors ( powerpoles are my personal choice )
3. Reedy Quad Mag or Orion Element motor.
4. Good Soldering Iron ( I use the radio shack 250Watt iron ).

There are other things you can get as well as extra parts, etc. But for now this will get you going. If you are thinking you will want to get all the extras and strengthening parts right way let me know the part name and number, and I will search some of the sites I know to see which is the cheapest for you.
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