T4 help

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Old 10-07-2009, 11:15 AM
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Default T4 help

Aright you guys going to go brushless and lipo for next year. I currently have the rtr version if I would get the factory version what will all the differnces be. Is it worth spending $200 for it or not?
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:57 PM
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A lot of the racers are replacing the std. T4 parts with GT2 parts for durability, so even if you had a FT version of the truck, those upgrades wouldn't come with the FT Version. Also, depending on the track, a lot of racers are using the plastic components vs. the graphite, so you already have those on your current truck. I would, if I were you, just do the GT2 upgrades of front arms (RPM also makes great front arms for the T4 which come with a better front bulkhead ), caster blocks, axle carriers as well as the b44 rear hubs and outer rear hub bearing. Think about getting the CVD's on the rear vs. the dog-bones. (I think that's what comes on the rtr..don't remember) You'll be a couple bucks ahead anyway. Then if funds allow, and you want easier tunability, think about upgrading the shock shafts and possibly the shock bodies themselves..(bodies are kind of a wear item anyway, so you may need new ones depending on how many runs you've put on your current ride)

IF all the tie-rods are still good..cool, but if they are bent up, think about upgrading to the FT blue ones, or lunsford.

These things can be done little by little either as things break/losen up or as funds allow.

Hope that helps.

Aaron
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by acyrier View Post
A lot of the racers are replacing the std. T4 parts with GT2 parts for durability, so even if you had a FT version of the truck, those upgrades wouldn't come with the FT Version. Also, depending on the track, a lot of racers are using the plastic components vs. the graphite, so you already have those on your current truck. I would, if I were you, just do the GT2 upgrades of front arms (RPM also makes great front arms for the T4 which come with a better front bulkhead ), caster blocks, axle carriers as well as the b44 rear hubs and outer rear hub bearing. Think about getting the CVD's on the rear vs. the dog-bones. (I think that's what comes on the rtr..don't remember) You'll be a couple bucks ahead anyway. Then if funds allow, and you want easier tunability, think about upgrading the shock shafts and possibly the shock bodies themselves..(bodies are kind of a wear item anyway, so you may need new ones depending on how many runs you've put on your current ride)

IF all the tie-rods are still good..cool, but if they are bent up, think about upgrading to the FT blue ones, or lunsford.

These things can be done little by little either as things break/losen up or as funds allow.

Hope that helps.

Aaron
www.michianarc.com

Well said there. If you are willing to buy used you can get a used FT4 used on here for around $100. Like said above, depending on your track you will probably want to upgrade to plastic. I have a Factory T4 and kept breaking front arms and was told to replace with gt2 and havent broken one since. Also replaced f and r shock towers with standard plastic ones. Also replace the ball cups with rpms, they are alot more flexable and stronger. Its also cheaper than factory stuff. One thing I would do though is get the Lunsford turnbuckles. The factory ones are nice, but they will bend.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:18 PM
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RC10T4 RTR or FT upgrade with AE parts.


6276 GT2 ballstud .200
6277 GT2 ballstud .300
7914 GT2 Front Shock Tower
7917 GT2 Front A-arms
7921 GT2 Steering Arms
7919 GT2 Front Caster Blocks (25 degree)
7922 GT2 Front Caster Blocks (30 degree)
9730 B44 rear hub
7935 3/16x1/2 bearing
7933 bearing crush tube
7889 5/64 x 1/4 Bearing in place of Steering Rack Bushings
3858 Black Ball Ends on Steering Rack

===

RPM GT2 front a-arms are a GOOD basher upgrade, a bit flexie for racing BUT I have them on my T4 FT!!!
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:35 PM
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get some mip cvds too.
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:37 AM
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So by doing this would this be adding wieght? are these parts more stiffer? By adding these is just helping out not breaking things but making the car a little slower or will it be the same but more stiffer?
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