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Mp9e TKI4 Manual

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Old 05-28-2018, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jag5508 View Post
I thought someone said you need a different diff cup then the original center ?
Hi!
You need one MP9 F/R diff cup. They are compatible with the Mp7.5/777 plastic spur.
BR
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:33 AM
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ok there u go my bad lol
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Old 05-28-2018, 06:26 PM
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I need some help. I’ve driven the mp9 nitro buggies for a while now so I decided to get an MP9e TKI4. The electric version seems to want to nosedive most of the time over jumps with a little size to them. Sometimes it’s incorrectable. The nose won’t pop back up like a nitro buggy. I’ve messed with the shocks some with very little success.

Front shocks: Kit shocks w/ gray springs and 550 Kyosho oil w/ about 1/8 rebound.
Rear shocks: Kit shocks w/ blue springs and 400 Kyosho oil w/ about 1/4-3/8 rebound.

Could it it be the stock body I’m running?

The car is great otherwise!
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tallyram View Post
I need some help. Iíve driven the mp9 nitro buggies for a while now so I decided to get an MP9e TKI4. The electric version seems to want to nosedive most of the time over jumps with a little size to them. Sometimes itís incorrectable. The nose wonít pop back up like a nitro buggy. Iíve messed with the shocks some with very little success.

Front shocks: Kit shocks w/ gray springs and 550 Kyosho oil w/ about 1/8 rebound.
Rear shocks: Kit shocks w/ blue springs and 400 Kyosho oil w/ about 1/4-3/8 rebound.

Could it it be the stock body Iím running?

The car is great otherwise!
Are you running a lot of drag brake? If so dial it out a bit.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:57 AM
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I run very little drag in my car. If it is not your drag setting please post your setup. Maybe it is an odd setting. I played the rear skid angle once setting it to 4'. That causes the same nose down issue. It really cause the rear to rebound over the front.
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Arcain41 View Post
I run very little drag in my car. If it is not your drag setting please post your setup. Maybe it is an odd setting. I played the rear skid angle once setting it to 4'. That causes the same nose down issue. It really cause the rear to rebound over the front.
No drag brake. I run a HW XR8 Plus with HW g2 1900kv motor. Setup is from the manual with ride height @ 27.5mm fr/ 29mm rr. Shocks were listed in my original post.
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:13 AM
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The stock tki4 I recall comes with a 12 tooth pinion which I feel is way too small for a brushless motor. That low gear would create a good amount of drag off throttle. I’d look at increasing the pinion to 14.
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Matty A View Post
The stock tki4 I recall comes with a 12 tooth pinion which I feel is way too small for a brushless motor. That low gear would create a good amount of drag off throttle. Iíd look at increasing the pinion to 14.
Thanks for the advice. Iím running a 13t now, but will try the 14t. Also, is the stock body very sensitive to where holes are reamed? I need to let my car breathe so the motor can run a little cooler. Itís about 180* after an 8-10 minute run here in north FL.
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tallyram View Post

Thanks for the advice. I’m running a 13t now, but will try the 14t. Also, is the stock body very sensitive to where holes are reamed? I need to let my car breathe so the motor can run a little cooler. It’s about 180* after an 8-10 minute run here in north FL.
I’ve got holes in mine at the front and I don’t feel it makes any difference, I think most guys drill holes regardless of make. The Electric body is bigger to fit the batteries. I know tebo slices the battery tray to lower the batteries so he can fit the standard nitro shell - there new LCG batteries coming out which are smaller so you don’t have to do that. I’ve got both shells so will make some closer observations when next out ��

Running the higher pinion may help the temps too. I suspect you’re revving the life out of your motor... I’ve seen pinions as high as 17 on this buggy.
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Matty A View Post

Iíve got holes in mine at the front and I donít feel it makes any difference, I think most guys drill holes regardless of make. The Electric body is bigger to fit the batteries. I know tebo slices the battery tray to lower the batteries so he can fit the standard nitro shell - there new LCG batteries coming out which are smaller so you donít have to do that. Iíve got both shells so will make some closer observations when next out ��

Running the higher pinion may help the temps too. I suspect youíre revving the life out of your motor... Iíve seen pinions as high as 17 on this buggy.
Thanks for the info. Iíve got a race Saturday, so Iíll try a 14t and 15t possibly. I wonít worry about cutting up the body yet. Ordered a couple of Yokomo fans and a mount for them. Will try them if I canít get the temps lower with gearing. Gotta do some testing after the race. Wanna try 17.5* hubs, emulsion shocks, and flipping the upper hingepin bushing. Just got back into racing after a few years off. My last buggy was a tki3 nitro.
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by tallyram View Post

Thanks for the info. Iíve got a race Saturday, so Iíll try a 14t and 15t possibly. I wonít worry about cutting up the body yet. Ordered a couple of Yokomo fans and a mount for them. Will try them if I canít get the temps lower with gearing. Gotta do some testing after the race. Wanna try 17.5* hubs, emulsion shocks, and flipping the upper hingepin bushing. Just got back into racing after a few years off. My last buggy was a tki3 nitro.
great to hear youíre back into racing. Ronnefalk just released a pretty good video on caster blocks - he runs at 20 on his HB.
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:37 PM
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I run 16t / 46t on my Tekin 1900 and never run a fan until it hits 100' outside. I've never run anything else so just temp your setup after the first run.

tallyram,
What are the settings for your rear pills? That could cause the rear to kick up too. I'm running the stock body with similar shock oils but with blue springs up front and orange in the rear. If you want I can post up my setup.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcain41 View Post
I run 16t / 46t on my Tekin 1900 and never run a fan until it hits 100' outside. I've never run anything else so just temp your setup after the first run.

tallyram,
What are the settings for your rear pills? That could cause the rear to kick up too. I'm running the stock body with similar shock oils but with blue springs up front and orange in the rear. If you want I can post up my setup.
So far Iím just running the kit setup.


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Old 06-02-2018, 11:43 AM
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That setting gives you 3'. Try flipping the forward pill to get 2'. This is my current setup based off 30tooth's setups. So far I like his setup.

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Old 06-02-2018, 05:24 PM
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Just got in from my first race day in six years. Finished 5th in both qualifiers and drove like crap! I did end up with 3rd in the main, so I got a podium! Had a hard time with tire selection and my nerves! Track was tacky in spots and dry and dusty in other spots during the qualifiers, but finally dried out enough to be a pretty consistent dry/blown off surface for the mains. I changed tires for the main and was a lot better. Still didn’t choose the best tire, but had something good on the buggy. Ran the out of box setup still and went up 1 tooth to a 14t pinion. Car handled pretty good and it was cloudy outside, so didn’t have temp problems. Car still doesn’t jump like I want. If I let off the throttle at all it wants to go into a nosedive that I can barely recover from. I can’t really attack the jumps and just kind of have to be smooth with them. It rained really hard after my main so the rest of the race was cancelled and so was my practice time, lol! Had some fast laps, but struggled with consistency. I had a blast and can’t wait to try some changes to my setup soon. Thanks for the help so far everyone!
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