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Old 09-24-2009, 09:21 AM
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Default Lipo C ratings?

So I am getting back into racing after a fairly long break (4+ years) and while it's good to see a lot of change it also means that I need to make a few purchases.

The one that I am not decided on yet would be the batteries. I used to buy from ProMatch and while I'm sure they would do fine I notice that the packs are rated at 30C while many would say that 35C or 40C would be better, the real question is, does it really make that big of a difference?

I am considering the Team Checkpoint 40C 5000Mah packs or looking at MaxAmps, downside being that they are a bit more expensive.

I am planning to run Stock (17.5) and then look into ProStock (13.5) and possibly modifed down the road.

Items I plan to get...

Tekin RS (maybe RSpro) w/ the PC hookup
Tekin Redline 17.5 Motor
CheckPoint 1030 Charger (with Balancer and temp sensor)

Currently running...

XXX-T MF
XXX BK2
M8 with Novak Synth
Novak GT7 & GTX
Airtronics Servos (forget the exact model, they were the fastest at the time)

Should I be looking into radio gear anytime soon? I was thinking that I am probably good for now.

Last edited by jharris; 09-24-2009 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Additions
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:38 PM
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If you are going to be running stock, then yes the "C" rating matters!

The main benefit of a LiPo over NiMh is that just about all LiPos are consistently good. They are all fast... as long as the pack is good, you're golden. Not like with NiMh, you had to buy good matched packs and then take care of them to keep them fast. With a LiPo, you just charge and run...and do it again over and over.

As the packs have gone from 15C and 20C to 35C and 40C, there is definitely a benefit with the higher C rating for stock motors, both 17.5 brushless and even 27t brushed! The higher C rating allows more power to flow to the motor giving you more speed! I'm sure at some point it won't matter much, but right now a 40C is where its at for stock!

One thing to remember is that you will need to add weight. A LiPo is about half the weight of a NiMh! The average 5000mah LiPo is around 10 ounces... whereas a 4200mah NiMh is around 16 onces! So just about any LiPo is going to seem much faster than a NiMh, but these cars weren't designed to be so light. You will need to add weight to get them to handle. The upside is that you can distribute the weight where you want it! Handling becomes much better than even before!

Good luck!

Jerome

Last edited by JeromeK99; 09-24-2009 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jharris
The one that I am not decided on yet would be the batteries. I used to buy from ProMatch and while I'm sure they would do fine I notice that the packs are rated at 30C while many would say that 35C or 40C would be better, the real question is, does it really make that big of a difference?
Yes, and no. The "C" rating is based upon the constant current the battery can supply to the ESC. The higher the "C" rating, the more amps. So, a 5000Mah 40C battery can safely deliver 200amps at a constant rate, continuously. Now for a stock motor, that's well above the load it'll be drawing from the battery. But for a 1/8 brushless motor. that simply isn't enough. Most motors that size need to draw at least 200amps to get moving. So, for you. It won't make much of a difference, because your motor should not be drawing as many amps as the battery is supplying.
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:56 PM
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I have some 25, 28 and 40 C batteries and the 40C definately deliver more punch than the 25 or 28. I run 1/10th scale and can notice a difference. Getting back into the hobby maybe a 28C would be benificial until the finger gets back into shape. Especially these days, my LHS has the lower C rated batteries pretty cheap these days because everyone wants the 40C. Unless you are racing high-bite conditions the 40C will just spin the tires more. But if you are racing indoor, high bite you might actually use it.
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Old 09-24-2009, 03:10 PM
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1/8 scale motors DO NOT NEED 200Amps to get moving

6kg heavy truck with Neu 1512 2050kv on 5S - 120A to get moving, then way bellow 30A

In my racing mugen i use 5000mah 30C constant 40C burst and 3300mah 35C constant/65C burst 5S batteries and they stay cool which means motor does not draw that high currents (i need to recalibrate my eagletree telemetry as last readings were strange)

Of course higher the C rating the better but not everyone will rate their batteries the same.
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Old 09-24-2009, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Foxxrocket
Yes, and no. The "C" rating is based upon the constant current the battery can supply to the ESC. The higher the "C" rating, the more amps. So, a 5000Mah 40C battery can safely deliver 200amps at a constant rate, continuously. Now for a stock motor, that's well above the load it'll be drawing from the battery. But for a 1/8 brushless motor. that simply isn't enough. Most motors that size need to draw at least 200amps to get moving. So, for you. It won't make much of a difference, because your motor should not be drawing as many amps as the battery is supplying.
Ever notice with NiMh batteries that they are warm to hot after running them? Well... that's the resistance translating into heat.. the motor was trying to pull more than the pack could release.. With higher rated C LiPo packs you can get the power to the motor easier. Like I said, you can definitely notice this in 1/10th scale stock racing. With hotter motors, you won't notice much unless the motor tries to overpower what the batteries can handle.. modified motors are plain powerful and fast... gear it and run it.. dont worry too much about batteries as long as they are good enough to power the motor.

Originally Posted by Heavy B
I have some 25, 28 and 40 C batteries and the 40C definately deliver more punch than the 25 or 28. I run 1/10th scale and can notice a difference. Getting back into the hobby maybe a 28C would be benificial until the finger gets back into shape. Especially these days, my LHS has the lower C rated batteries pretty cheap these days because everyone wants the 40C. Unless you are racing high-bite conditions the 40C will just spin the tires more. But if you are racing indoor, high bite you might actually use it.
Don't mistake a high-bite track for "traction"... sure a high-bite track you can use just about any tire to hook up.. but even on a loose loomy track, you can get traction with the proper tire and go fast! A 40C over a 20C will give you power advantage... hooking that power up is a different matter. I'd say more important than even motor or batteries!


Jerome
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JeromeK99
Ever notice with NiMh batteries that they are warm to hot after running them? Well... that's the resistance translating into heat.. the motor was trying to pull more than the pack could release.. With higher rated C LiPo packs you can get the power to the motor easier. Like I said, you can definitely notice this in 1/10th scale stock racing.
Definitely the truth. The higher C rated bateries equal increased punch and top end in a stocker. I run my older lower c batteries in my mod truck. Mod is silly fast anyway,so a little less performance via the battery isnt as noticeable as it would be in a 17.5 buggy/truck.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:15 PM
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Thanks for the insights... leaning towards a pair of 40C packs to start. So I noticed a 70C pack at MaxAmps

Can't post links as apparently I am a n00b - (Missing link here)

Anyone out there know of these feel like that big of a jump from a 40C or is it marketing fluff?
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jharris
Thanks for the insights... leaning towards a pair of 40C packs to start. So I noticed a 70C pack at MaxAmps

Can't post links as apparently I am a n00b - (Missing link here)

Anyone out there know of these feel like that big of a jump from a 40C or is it marketing fluff?
they measure their packs in burst not constant...so that would be 35c constant pack. i love maxamps stuff, i just dont have any back to back comparisons with other brands.
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