HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
#796
Tech Apprentice
Thanks rcworkshopp for the reply
i hadn't considered expansion, that's a good point. as i have used the car a lot in the couple of months i've had it, and that to an extent the pinion and spur will have worn in together (hope this makes sense), do you reckon it is worth getting new ones, then trying to get them dialled in as quiet as possible?
Cheers
i hadn't considered expansion, that's a good point. as i have used the car a lot in the couple of months i've had it, and that to an extent the pinion and spur will have worn in together (hope this makes sense), do you reckon it is worth getting new ones, then trying to get them dialled in as quiet as possible?
Cheers
You also might want to check the motor and bearings. You don't need to take the motor apart but move the pinion side to side and see if there is play. I am sure it's fine but if you have been running the gears to tight you will wear it out. It's like making your belts to tight in your real car. You will wear out your bearings in your water pump or power steering assy.
#797
I have slackened the mesh off a bit more and hopefully i'll get to try it one day this week after work, i'm guessing but it appears that there's about 1mm play when rotating the spur before it tries to move the pinion. i just wish i'd noted how much play there was before touching it, currently i don't know whether it's slacker or tighter than stock as i've nothing to compare it to.
there doesn't seem to be any side to side play in the motors shaft at all, however if i try to pull the pinion, as in to pull it off the end of the shaft, the shaft will move back and forth slightly, again about 1mm, maybe a bit more, i think this movement has always been there.
cheers
lee
there doesn't seem to be any side to side play in the motors shaft at all, however if i try to pull the pinion, as in to pull it off the end of the shaft, the shaft will move back and forth slightly, again about 1mm, maybe a bit more, i think this movement has always been there.
cheers
lee
#798
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
As far as debris in the ESC I have found this to be a problem. I ran a mud race and the esc was fairly clean but enough mud got in to jam the fan and burn it out. Every dry race packs the internals of the esc with dust and rocks. I pull the back plate off and it pours out. This was too much for me as the processor and everything was just sitting in debris. I ended up cutting the top of the case and sealing everything with silicone. This completely protects it and also allows for different fans to be installed on top of the heat sink.
#800
Tech Apprentice
As far as debris in the ESC I have found this to be a problem. I ran a mud race and the esc was fairly clean but enough mud got in to jam the fan and burn it out. Every dry race packs the internals of the esc with dust and rocks. I pull the back plate off and it pours out. This was too much for me as the processor and everything was just sitting in debris. I ended up cutting the top of the case and sealing everything with silicone. This completely protects it and also allows for different fans to be installed on top of the heat sink.
#801
Tech Apprentice
Okay in the last three weeks I won enouph items on ebay from the same take apart guy to just about build another vorza.Okay I am not going to build one but I now have a four drawer tacklebox full of vorza spare parts and hardware.I got 8 hubs/nuts hinge pins and hardware.I just won a center diff/spurgear and a whole bunch of other stuff.I even got the tool parts bag for extra hardware.I didnt even bid on a-arms.Its crazy. someone won the set for 36.00.You can get them from hb or tower for the ve8 at 23 dollars.TheyI looked up parts before bidding.I dont want to overpay that much.I did however got a brand new vorza chassis for 16.00 and hpi lists it for 80.00.Only wanted it to lend to my friend who does carbonfiber to see if he could frabricate a carbon fiber vorza chassis.The aluminum one is pretty heavy.I dont think you could angle carbonfiber.At least I have always seen it flat.
#802
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
bnangle, i was looking at this seller's page on ebay (getitfast) to see if he was bidding on his items himself and i see you paid $31 for a suspension pin plate set and $31 for a set of hex hubs and stays.. Is that cheap???
I was looking bc alot of the things that i was bidding on had alot of similar bidders that in the last 30 had bid on 10-30 items and they were 90-97% all on this guys items??
This seems kind of fishy to me what do you think? I did win 5 auctions however but i placed the bid with 5mins to go..
I was looking bc alot of the things that i was bidding on had alot of similar bidders that in the last 30 had bid on 10-30 items and they were 90-97% all on this guys items??
This seems kind of fishy to me what do you think? I did win 5 auctions however but i placed the bid with 5mins to go..
#803
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
So what is everyone running in their diffs??????
#804
Tech Apprentice
bnangle, i was looking at this seller's page on ebay (getitfast) to see if he was bidding on his items himself and i see you paid $31 for a suspension pin plate set and $31 for a set of hex hubs and stays.. Is that cheap???
I was looking bc alot of the things that i was bidding on had alot of similar bidders that in the last 30 had bid on 10-30 items and they were 90-97% all on this guys items??
This seems kind of fishy to me what do you think? I did win 5 auctions however but i placed the bid with 5mins to go..
I was looking bc alot of the things that i was bidding on had alot of similar bidders that in the last 30 had bid on 10-30 items and they were 90-97% all on this guys items??
This seems kind of fishy to me what do you think? I did win 5 auctions however but i placed the bid with 5mins to go..
#805
bnangle, i was looking at this seller's page on ebay (getitfast) to see if he was bidding on his items himself and i see you paid $31 for a suspension pin plate set and $31 for a set of hex hubs and stays.. Is that cheap???
I was looking bc alot of the things that i was bidding on had alot of similar bidders that in the last 30 had bid on 10-30 items and they were 90-97% all on this guys items??
This seems kind of fishy to me what do you think? I did win 5 auctions however but i placed the bid with 5mins to go..
I was looking bc alot of the things that i was bidding on had alot of similar bidders that in the last 30 had bid on 10-30 items and they were 90-97% all on this guys items??
This seems kind of fishy to me what do you think? I did win 5 auctions however but i placed the bid with 5mins to go..
#806
I'm very much considering it. For what I spent on my Cyber 10B I probably could have bought a kit and new electronics. lol
I don't know how CF is laid in RC apps, but in real cars, they make hoods, trunk lids, hatches, and all kind of curved and angled parts. Some of it just as thick or thicker than the RC stuff. So I don't see why not. It's all plyable sheets till it's cured right? Maybe...
Originally Posted by bnangle
I did however got a brand new vorza chassis for 16.00 and hpi lists it for 80.00.Only wanted it to lend to my friend who does carbonfiber to see if he could frabricate a carbon fiber vorza chassis.The aluminum one is pretty heavy.I dont think you could angle carbonfiber.At least I have always seen it flat.
#807
I have slackened the mesh off a bit more and hopefully i'll get to try it one day this week after work, i'm guessing but it appears that there's about 1mm play when rotating the spur before it tries to move the pinion. i just wish i'd noted how much play there was before touching it, currently i don't know whether it's slacker or tighter than stock as i've nothing to compare it to.
there doesn't seem to be any side to side play in the motors shaft at all, however if i try to pull the pinion, as in to pull it off the end of the shaft, the shaft will move back and forth slightly, again about 1mm, maybe a bit more, i think this movement has always been there.
there doesn't seem to be any side to side play in the motors shaft at all, however if i try to pull the pinion, as in to pull it off the end of the shaft, the shaft will move back and forth slightly, again about 1mm, maybe a bit more, i think this movement has always been there.
Continue to back the gears off of each other until you don't hear a sound when rolling the chassis back and forth. I thought mine was set too far away from each other but it was perfect.
Are you using the stock pinion and flywheel?
Are they worn down from driving it with the gear mesh too tight?
As far as debris in the ESC I have found this to be a problem. I ran a mud race and the esc was fairly clean but enough mud got in to jam the fan and burn it out. Every dry race packs the internals of the esc with dust and rocks. I pull the back plate off and it pours out. This was too much for me as the processor and everything was just sitting in debris. I ended up cutting the top of the case and sealing everything with silicone. This completely protects it and also allows for different fans to be installed on top of the heat sink.
I could easily re-post all of my information and research but it would be very informative for you to read it all. *Hint* = starting recommended diff setup is 5-5-2. Search for the keyword "differential" in this thread to narrow down which posts discuss differentials.
#808
Suspended
So no one has a recorded top speed?
#809
Tech Apprentice
Here are some carbon fiber parts available for the d8 and ve8.They should work for the vorza
http://www.xtremercracing.com/VE8.cfm
http://www.xtremercracing.com/VE8.cfm
#810
As far as debris in the ESC I have found this to be a problem. I ran a mud race and the esc was fairly clean but enough mud got in to jam the fan and burn it out. Every dry race packs the internals of the esc with dust and rocks. I pull the back plate off and it pours out. This was too much for me as the processor and everything was just sitting in debris. I ended up cutting the top of the case and sealing everything with silicone. This completely protects it and also allows for different fans to be installed on top of the heat sink.