HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
Tech Initiate
Hi all,
Is there any truggy conversion kit available for the Vorza ? Can't find any and surprised it's not offered, truggys being so popular...
ideas ?
Is there any truggy conversion kit available for the Vorza ? Can't find any and surprised it's not offered, truggys being so popular...
ideas ?
Tech Rookie
Hello,
I hope this topic is still active...
I have some questions, hopefully here are some guys to help me.
I have recently bought a vorza.
The gear setup is: 46 / 19 gear
Lipo: Gens 4s - 5200mah - 40c cont./ 80c short term (new)
Tires: originals out of the box
1 Question
I run last day on our base track ( short gras en mid size), not warm weather, and after the lipo save of the esc turned on, battery run time +- 10 a 15min, first battery was hot but the second one was even hotter even a little bit blown up!
Engine a little bit warm, esc same as engine, complete normal.
Ok, second round i drive almost all the time on full throttle, even true the corners.
What are the best solutions for me, other gear combination, (cables have i already on agenda to change), other lipo...??
2 question;
- what is the best WT to use in the shocks?
My shocks in the rear are to easy to push in.
Thanks already for the help !!
I hope this topic is still active...
I have some questions, hopefully here are some guys to help me.
I have recently bought a vorza.
The gear setup is: 46 / 19 gear
Lipo: Gens 4s - 5200mah - 40c cont./ 80c short term (new)
Tires: originals out of the box
1 Question
I run last day on our base track ( short gras en mid size), not warm weather, and after the lipo save of the esc turned on, battery run time +- 10 a 15min, first battery was hot but the second one was even hotter even a little bit blown up!
Engine a little bit warm, esc same as engine, complete normal.
Ok, second round i drive almost all the time on full throttle, even true the corners.
- Started from the esc i have the original cables 10awg, then i go to other connectors to 12awg, would that be the problem?
- Or is it because i drive to long on full speed without a small break?
- Or is the gear to small for the track, because i can ride to long full throttle?
- Or other suggestions...
What are the best solutions for me, other gear combination, (cables have i already on agenda to change), other lipo...??
2 question;
- what is the best WT to use in the shocks?
My shocks in the rear are to easy to push in.
Thanks already for the help !!
Tech Rookie
Hello,
I hope this topic is still active...
I have some questions, hopefully here are some guys to help me.
I have recently bought a vorza.
The gear setup is: 46 / 19 gear
Lipo: Gens 4s - 5200mah - 40c cont./ 80c short term (new)
Tires: originals out of the box
1 Question
I run last day on our base track ( short gras en mid size), not warm weather, and after the lipo save of the esc turned on, battery run time +- 10 a 15min, first battery was hot but the second one was even hotter even a little bit blown up!
Engine a little bit warm, esc same as engine, complete normal.
Ok, second round i drive almost all the time on full throttle, even true the corners.
What are the best solutions for me, other gear combination, (cables have i already on agenda to change), other lipo...??
2 question;
- what is the best WT to use in the shocks?
My shocks in the rear are to easy to push in.
Thanks already for the help !!
I hope this topic is still active...
I have some questions, hopefully here are some guys to help me.
I have recently bought a vorza.
The gear setup is: 46 / 19 gear
Lipo: Gens 4s - 5200mah - 40c cont./ 80c short term (new)
Tires: originals out of the box
1 Question
I run last day on our base track ( short gras en mid size), not warm weather, and after the lipo save of the esc turned on, battery run time +- 10 a 15min, first battery was hot but the second one was even hotter even a little bit blown up!
Engine a little bit warm, esc same as engine, complete normal.
Ok, second round i drive almost all the time on full throttle, even true the corners.
- Started from the esc i have the original cables 10awg, then i go to other connectors to 12awg, would that be the problem?
- Or is it because i drive to long on full speed without a small break?
- Or is the gear to small for the track, because i can ride to long full throttle?
- Or other suggestions...
What are the best solutions for me, other gear combination, (cables have i already on agenda to change), other lipo...??
2 question;
- what is the best WT to use in the shocks?
My shocks in the rear are to easy to push in.
Thanks already for the help !!
Tech Initiate
Hi vorza guys im wondering if a vorza can use the same parts as a HB D815 tessman?
shock towers
cvds.
alloy hubs all round
well actually all of the front or rear ends bolted onto a vorza chassis. Still using the vorza steering assembly?
I needed the diffs chassis steering and centre shafts. The rest of the tessman buggy is no good to me. So im hoping i can list those parts to vorza owners as upgrades?
Thanks
shock towers
cvds.
alloy hubs all round
well actually all of the front or rear ends bolted onto a vorza chassis. Still using the vorza steering assembly?
I needed the diffs chassis steering and centre shafts. The rest of the tessman buggy is no good to me. So im hoping i can list those parts to vorza owners as upgrades?
Thanks
Tech Initiate
hot bodies D8T i think that suits but im not certain however the parts look crazy similar so im hopful.
im trying to build a D8/Vorza MT. Using the D8T front and rear ends with a D8 or Vorza chassis.
HB D8MT tessman spec. A cheap tekno mt410 lol. But with much better materials like carbon and alloy shock caps lol. Tekno couldnt even supply alloy caps for the most expensive chassis kit i know of for bashing.
£415 + wheels, tires and body. = £150 from proline. So its a £565 roller. Plus elecs. £300 ish with budget hobbywing a good servo and mid range lipo.
£865 RTR tekno mt410 and ide say thats a minimum price for decent spec. Not the best but not all out budget spec.
$1.200 ish. Mental tekno. Not even alloy shock caps.
Anyone tried those CVDs on Vorza? It says 94mm drive shaft, so it maybe fit on the rear. It's much thicker than stock ones.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310455
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXECNG&P=Z
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310455
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXECNG&P=Z
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Anyone tried those CVDs on Vorza? It says 94mm drive shaft, so it maybe fit on the rear. It's much thicker than stock ones.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310455
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXECNG&P=Z
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310455
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXECNG&P=Z
i doubt it. The axle appears to use a larger bearing on the inside of the hub.
But these fit...must use fronts for both front and rear
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HBS204016-H...EAAOSwlndZAgzW
kyosho 1/8 buggy universals may possibly fit too. I use Kyosho truggy universals on my HB TRUGGY.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYO33001B-K...S/382743002591
Tech Adept
Hello there!
I just got my first RC car, the legendary Vorza! I already have an issue It is my fault, I just followed someones post telling them to get this battery and that it will probably fit. I would like to make them work because I have 2 of them and I don't know anyone that would buy them. I am unsure if I can return them but I would rather just figure out how to make it work.
SO.. how do I make this fit? It fits with no tray if I force it in. I think I will have to move that ESC out of the way, or position it so I gain a tiny bit of room. I will also have to cut a couple of sides off the battery tray, maybe even 3 sides. Not sure how weak that will make the final side holding the straps. I also plan on using velcro on the bottom of the tray and battery to help keep it from moving.
Please share your ideas and thank you!
I just got my first RC car, the legendary Vorza! I already have an issue It is my fault, I just followed someones post telling them to get this battery and that it will probably fit. I would like to make them work because I have 2 of them and I don't know anyone that would buy them. I am unsure if I can return them but I would rather just figure out how to make it work.
SO.. how do I make this fit? It fits with no tray if I force it in. I think I will have to move that ESC out of the way, or position it so I gain a tiny bit of room. I will also have to cut a couple of sides off the battery tray, maybe even 3 sides. Not sure how weak that will make the final side holding the straps. I also plan on using velcro on the bottom of the tray and battery to help keep it from moving.
Please share your ideas and thank you!
Tech Adept
I think I got it!
I cut out some of the trays sides, I left the part close to the drive shaft, and the front side, i removed the sides by the edge of the car and the one in the back to make room. I took out the ESC and its plate, I removed the ESC from the plate and drilled holes in it to mount it over the diff, I took out 2 diff screws out and mounted the plate with 2 longer screws ontop of the diff. I am not sure if I should have used the 4 screws... Anyway, I put velcro on the bottom of the tray and the battery and strapped it in tight. The ESC went over the plate with the sticky pad it came with, and I added a zip tie for extra measure. I ziptied the motor wires to the cable management thing to make sure they don't go anywhere, and i have double sided velcro that i looped around the battery to hold on to the wires.
Here is what I got now. Please advise me about the 2 screws if you can, and any red flags you may see. This is my first RC and I think I just graduated MacGyver school.
I cut out some of the trays sides, I left the part close to the drive shaft, and the front side, i removed the sides by the edge of the car and the one in the back to make room. I took out the ESC and its plate, I removed the ESC from the plate and drilled holes in it to mount it over the diff, I took out 2 diff screws out and mounted the plate with 2 longer screws ontop of the diff. I am not sure if I should have used the 4 screws... Anyway, I put velcro on the bottom of the tray and the battery and strapped it in tight. The ESC went over the plate with the sticky pad it came with, and I added a zip tie for extra measure. I ziptied the motor wires to the cable management thing to make sure they don't go anywhere, and i have double sided velcro that i looped around the battery to hold on to the wires.
Here is what I got now. Please advise me about the 2 screws if you can, and any red flags you may see. This is my first RC and I think I just graduated MacGyver school.
Tech Adept
I got skid marks all over my hardwood floor... whoops... its hard to get off too. Ill try an eraser and if that doesn't work some cleaning products lol.
Tech Adept
Wow, i was looking at the bags of spare parts then looked at the price, he is asking for too much but it got me thinking if I can find some cheaper used ones that come with parts! I wonder if he did mount his ESC on that carbon fiber plate. The body won't sit right all the way up front there, it would have to be right on top of the diff or further to the back. I wanted to offset mine to one side a bit to help balance weight and I couldn't it would rub against the body. It really has to be close to the center to fit right. I am starting to think that I should have mounted the plate with 4 screws rather than 2 on opposing corners but it feels sturdy for now.
I am dying to play with it outside but we had a snow storm recently and everything is covered. I don't want to put it through snow yet. I turned punch control down to the slowest setting to save my hardwood while I try to race around my house
I have a 44 inch spur and a 20 tooth pinion I want to put on soon once I play with factory teeth and get a good feel for the machine. I also already hate the controller and I want a new one.
I am dying to play with it outside but we had a snow storm recently and everything is covered. I don't want to put it through snow yet. I turned punch control down to the slowest setting to save my hardwood while I try to race around my house
I have a 44 inch spur and a 20 tooth pinion I want to put on soon once I play with factory teeth and get a good feel for the machine. I also already hate the controller and I want a new one.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
That’s what I do...I hunt for cheap rollers and pats lots on eBay for spares and projects. This is a build I made from a HB D8 roller that I picked up on eBay a few months ago. All these parts on this build are compatible with a Vorza ...
i cut a piece of Kydex to use for an esc mount, much like that eBay listing....In order to make this body fit
Tech Adept
That’s what I do...I hunt for cheap rollers and pats lots on eBay for spares and projects. This is a build I made from a HB D8 roller that I picked up on eBay a few months ago. All these parts on this build are compatible with a Vorza ...
i cut a piece of Kydex to use for an esc mount, much like that eBay listing....In order to make this body fit
i cut a piece of Kydex to use for an esc mount, much like that eBay listing....In order to make this body fit
I also want that skyrc corner balance system! I am so poor all of a sudden...
Somebody is using Futaba radio with Vorza? A new Futaba radio come out, 4PM, meanwhile the 4PV is on sale some shops.