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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

Old 03-16-2010, 01:37 PM
  #1411  
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Jeremy, is that a Techno RC chassis or the stock Vorza chassis?

Those pictures are great, nice angles and picture choices for everyone to see.
This seems like a great fit for our Vorzas.

I just got rid of my 4S 6500 battery for a lighter / smaller 4S 5250 battery from Maxamps.
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:02 PM
  #1412  
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Originally Posted by HYDE16 View Post
Jeremy, is that a Techno RC chassis or the stock Vorza chassis?

Those pictures are great, nice angles and picture choices for everyone to see.
This seems like a great fit for our Vorzas.

I just got rid of my 4S 6500 battery for a lighter / smaller 4S 5250 battery from Maxamps.
It's stock... do they even make one for the Vorza?

If you can let me know the lbs on the new battery - thanks
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:33 PM
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Just curious if there would be enough body before trimming to raise the mounting height of the body to give more clearance for the batteries, fans, etc. Not sure how you would accomplish raising the body mounts, just thinking outloud.

I hate to say it, but even though these bodies seem to work, it looks more and more like a body made specifically for the Vorza will be the best thing.

ben
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Mya View Post
It's stock... do they even make one for the Vorza?

If you can let me know the lbs on the new battery - thanks
I don't think they do, someone mentioned that aftermarket chassis on here but it could have been for a D8 or Ve8....

The new battery is 500 grams and a tad shorter:
http://maxamps.com/proddetail.php?pr...8-Pack&cat=239
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Lgbzone View Post
Thanks for all the pictures, much appreciated, can you please post the dimension of the batteries you have.

Thanks
Lee
The 2S 5250 7.4v is: 5-1/2"long x 3/4"thick x 1-3/4"wide each.

The 4S 6500 14.8v is: 5-1/2"long x 1-7/8"thick x 2"wide
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Mya View Post
The 2S 5250 7.4v is: 5-1/2"long x 3/4"thick x 1-3/4"wide each.

The 4S 6500 14.8v is: 5-1/2"long x 1-7/8"thick x 2"wide
Cheers, i'll try a comparison with my batteries, although i probably wouldn't be able to get the body in the UK anyway
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by armourbl View Post
Just curious if there would be enough body before trimming to raise the mounting height of the body to give more clearance for the batteries, fans, etc. Not sure how you would accomplish raising the body mounts, just thinking outloud.

I hate to say it, but even though these bodies seem to work, it looks more and more like a body made specifically for the Vorza will be the best thing.

ben
I agree with you… the Vorza body fits the best. The JConcepts body just gives it a different look. I plan to paint up both bodies; I’ll post pic’s when I have them ready.

Raising the body mounts is an option to gain more clearance. Before I trimmed the JConcepts body there was plenty of body to go up at least a ¼ inch. I thought I read earlier in this tread about moving the body mounts up to the body mount alignment hole on the shock towers. You would have to shave off the alignment pin on the body mount or just drill another hole. However, by doing that, you may take away the low sleek design of the body.
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:40 PM
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I know I said earlier “one last thing”, well… I lied.

The carbon fiber mud guards held up great until I had a really bad landing off the trips’ and the left rear wheel flexed enough to put a minor chip in the mud guard, but it never cracked, so a little reshaping with the dermal should fix that.

The carbon fiber shock towers held up excellent. A couple of times I thought for sure that I would have broken the front one, but they held up perfect.

I have one of those aluminum rear wear guards from Xtreme Racing that got tore up pretty good. I think I'll try out the DE's next and compare.

And I think last... my tire set up had wicked traction on both tracks.
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:46 PM
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For front and rear what are your settings for camber, toe, oil weight, springs and preload?
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Mya View Post
I know I said earlier “one last thing”, well… I lied.

The carbon fiber mud guards held up great until I had a really bad landing off the trips’ and the left rear wheel flexed enough to put a minor chip in the mud guard, but it never cracked, so a little reshaping with the dermal should fix that.

The carbon fiber shock towers held up excellent. A couple of times I thought for sure that I would have broken the front one, but they held up perfect.

I have one of those aluminum rear wear guards from Xtreme Racing that got tore up pretty good. I think I'll try out the DE's next and compare.

And I think last... my tire set up had wicked traction on both tracks.
The first set of mud guards I made from the template you provided were of very stiff Plexiglass. I think I was having wheel flex as well because I had rub marks on the inside of the wheels.

ben
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:33 PM
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Strong work Mr Mya
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:03 PM
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I keep looking but does anyone know where to find different shock pistons? Im up to 80wt in the rear which is working, but dam 80wt!!!
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vision View Post
It's a VP Pro high down force wing. Meant for 1/8 buggy's.
Vision,Thanks these look awesome.They have three different wings.A v,k and m wing take a look and tell me which one you would recomend for basic bike tracks and flat dirt surfaces.I think the m but I am not sure.like the green too.

http://www.vp-pro-usa.com/rc-wheels-...category_id=40
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:20 PM
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hey guys quick question...

Got my new springs today and will be changing them over, also will be doing shock oil at the same time. question is- do i need to rebuild the shocks at this time or can i just tip the old oil out and pour the new in?
cheers.
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Old 03-17-2010, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by horseteeth View Post
hey guys quick question...

Got my new springs today and will be changing them over, also will be doing shock oil at the same time. question is- do i need to rebuild the shocks at this time or can i just tip the old oil out and pour the new in?
cheers.
I wouldn't have thought you had to totally rebuild them at this stage, i'd be looking at draining them, cleaning them and then adding the new oil. although it wouldn't hurt if you did rebuild them.

I wouldn't change both the spring and oil at the same time, ideally; change the springs and them preload them until the correct amount of force is needed to compress the suspension, this depends on car weight, speed and how rough the track is. then look at how fast the suspension returns after being compressed, if it's too fast; the car will bounce on the rough, traction and stability will be compromised, so add thicker oil to slow it down. if it's too slow/damp; then the suspension compresses on a bump, but won't return quick enough for the next one, so on the rough you're hitting bumps with the suspension already compressed, again the car will start to bounce and traction and stability will be lost, obviously you won't be able to get the power down either. when you get it right; the chassis will travel flat, horizontally as the wheels are going up and down tracking the ground, here the car is most stable with the best traction.
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