16LikesHPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
08-10-2012, 09:34 AM
#8521
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I wrecked bad enough to finally damage a LiPo battery today. In the same wreck, I bent my Tekno front center drive shaft, bent the stock rear shock tower, and it pulled the tower mounting screws from the rear diff case... sadness. The battery was a GensAce 5s 60c 5300mah... my favorite battery! I was launching the car over a massive hill and landed square on the wing.
08-10-2012, 05:40 PM
#8522
08-11-2012, 01:28 PM
#8525
http://www.rcplanet.com/Mugen_Rear_L...p/muge0124.htm
I put them on this week, so far so good.
08-11-2012, 03:29 PM
#8527
Tech Initiate
Center Drive Shaft Coupling Set Screw
The head of the set screw in my center drive shaft coupling got stripped because i over tightened it. Anyway, the hex screw that's in it isn't the correct length so it's really short and only takes up about half the hole. I tried to drill it out with 2 different sized cobalt drill bits. The bits are just spinning now and won't go any deeper. Plus i ended up breaking both bits.
So the coupling still won't come off the end of the spiral gear. What else can I do? I was thinking of trying to cut the coupling off with a dremel, but that means I'd have to buy one.
So the coupling still won't come off the end of the spiral gear. What else can I do? I was thinking of trying to cut the coupling off with a dremel, but that means I'd have to buy one.
08-11-2012, 05:32 PM
#8528
Heres a video from today of my Vorza with D8T arms, driveshafts, shocks, etc.... Using 5S hyperion 45c 5000mah lipos. Proline Emaxx VW baja bug body..
Exceed/Nitrorcx monster truck tires....which are great tires....and cheap too..$40.00 for an entire premounted set of four!!!
Exceed/Nitrorcx monster truck tires....which are great tires....and cheap too..$40.00 for an entire premounted set of four!!!| + YouTube Video | |
08-12-2012, 04:05 PM
#8529
Tech Initiate
I like the EC5s. Smooth to connect and disconnect, nice big connectors to get your hands around, and they didn't get any warmer than the wire on the battery after a 6 minute heat. I'm sold!
08-12-2012, 05:56 PM
#8530
08-15-2012, 04:02 AM
#8531
Tech Rookie
Hello Vorzalovers. I'm thinking of buying the options bigboreshocks and the front and rear high shocktowers. Do I need to buy a harder spring?
Today I have red spring front and rear and 550 shockoil. It runs very good on the dirttrack.
// Johannes
Today I have red spring front and rear and 550 shockoil. It runs very good on the dirttrack.
// Johannes
08-16-2012, 12:47 AM
#8532
Will HPI ever restock aluminum spindles and carriers? Holy balls!
08-16-2012, 02:13 PM
#8533
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
My Center diff is getting HOT! I mean hot like putting your finger on any metal part for more than a second and it will cause burns!
My gearing is 18T/40T with a 40T plastic Kyosho spur gear. I originally put some grease inside the diff as I didn't have any oil. Thinking that MIGHT be my problem, I drained the diff and put in 100k HPI oil. After a 5 minute bash, I took the center diff off, opened the tiny screw on the side of the diff and brown oil came flying out. (Weird to have brown oil after one 5 minute run when it was initially clear?) Anyway, I let some oil leak out thinking I put to much oil in and then tightened it back down for another run. Next run, even hotter!
I'm pulling wheelies like crazy and I'd like to stop that from happening so much, but my first concern is this crazy heat. My run times while bashing around under 10 minutes for a fully charged 5S 4200mah 35C Hyperion battery.
Anyone have any ideas why my diff is so HOT or why the oil is quickly turning colors?
My gearing is 18T/40T with a 40T plastic Kyosho spur gear. I originally put some grease inside the diff as I didn't have any oil. Thinking that MIGHT be my problem, I drained the diff and put in 100k HPI oil. After a 5 minute bash, I took the center diff off, opened the tiny screw on the side of the diff and brown oil came flying out. (Weird to have brown oil after one 5 minute run when it was initially clear?) Anyway, I let some oil leak out thinking I put to much oil in and then tightened it back down for another run. Next run, even hotter!
I'm pulling wheelies like crazy and I'd like to stop that from happening so much, but my first concern is this crazy heat. My run times while bashing around under 10 minutes for a fully charged 5S 4200mah 35C Hyperion battery.
Anyone have any ideas why my diff is so HOT or why the oil is quickly turning colors?
08-16-2012, 02:59 PM
#8535
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
IF147 ... and sorry, it's a 44T spur gear. But it's much quieter and seems to be holding up well...even in this crazy heat.
Regarding my heat issue: I only have 100k diff oil and 1k diff oil and my diff is getting hotter and hotter. I tried opening up the diff and filling it up about 60-75% full with a mix of 100k diff and a little 1k diff oil. After an 8 minute run, the diff is hotter than I've ever felt it. A quick finger test of .5 seconds hurt like a SOAB. (I need to find a heat gun!)
Also, thinking that the diff oil would be less than 100k after adding the 1k diff oil in the mix, it seems to pop wheelies just as often. I'm at a loss and I can't image this diff is going to last much longer with this type of heat.
Anyway, if anyone else has delt with this issue, I'd really like some help.
Update: I purchased a brand new Vorza Center Diff off ebay, which was from a brand new car. I removed the CD (Center Diff) I was having problems with and replaced it with the brand new one. The wheelie issue is less pronounced and the heat is much less. After a few minutes of hard bashing on the street, I could leave my finger on the center drive dogs (front and rear) for 2-3 seconds before it became uncomfortable. This is much less heat that the CD with the Kyosho spur...which leads me to believe there might be a problem inside the CD when using the Kyosho spur. Has anyone else had issues? I wonder if the internal gears are binding a bit more when using the Kyosho spur, which would explain the decreased run times, wheelie issues and extreme heat.
I guess time will tell, but it runs much better now. (Although much louder than when I was using the Kyosho plastic spur.)
Regarding my heat issue: I only have 100k diff oil and 1k diff oil and my diff is getting hotter and hotter. I tried opening up the diff and filling it up about 60-75% full with a mix of 100k diff and a little 1k diff oil. After an 8 minute run, the diff is hotter than I've ever felt it. A quick finger test of .5 seconds hurt like a SOAB. (I need to find a heat gun!)
Also, thinking that the diff oil would be less than 100k after adding the 1k diff oil in the mix, it seems to pop wheelies just as often. I'm at a loss and I can't image this diff is going to last much longer with this type of heat.
Anyway, if anyone else has delt with this issue, I'd really like some help.
Update: I purchased a brand new Vorza Center Diff off ebay, which was from a brand new car. I removed the CD (Center Diff) I was having problems with and replaced it with the brand new one. The wheelie issue is less pronounced and the heat is much less. After a few minutes of hard bashing on the street, I could leave my finger on the center drive dogs (front and rear) for 2-3 seconds before it became uncomfortable. This is much less heat that the CD with the Kyosho spur...which leads me to believe there might be a problem inside the CD when using the Kyosho spur. Has anyone else had issues? I wonder if the internal gears are binding a bit more when using the Kyosho spur, which would explain the decreased run times, wheelie issues and extreme heat.
I guess time will tell, but it runs much better now. (Although much louder than when I was using the Kyosho plastic spur.)
Last edited by fidelity101; 08-16-2012 at 05:50 PM.