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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

Old 06-13-2011, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bigben1165 View Post
very cool bud!
I should have gotten into 1/8 racing sooner, it's so much more fun than 1/10 for me any way. Real racing rather than playing 1/10 sc destruction derby with children! LOL Plus it still blows my mind that I can get a 10 to 12' run at a triple jump and make it with ease! Some of the guys had to double in single out, it sure was fun to pass guys in the air! LOL

Jerry
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:58 AM
  #5297  
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Originally Posted by jones8352 View Post
I should have gotten into 1/8 racing sooner, it's so much more fun than 1/10 for me any way. Real racing rather than playing 1/10 sc destruction derby with children! LOL Plus it still blows my mind that I can get a 10 to 12' run at a triple jump and make it with ease! Some of the guys had to double in single out, it sure was fun to pass guys in the air! LOL

Jerry
i agree it is more fun, but it is also more expensive with tires and such.
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jones8352 View Post
I normally don't use the brakes too much, I like to throw it sideways and get on the power to slide around the turn. But the rear was stepping out too far, sometimes resulting in a 360, looked cool but not a very fast way around a corner. I'll give the 5 5 5 a try my next practice day.

Thankyou
Jerry
try 5-10-5. I know sounds crazy. You will like it for racing though.
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisVorzaNinja View Post
try 5-10-5. I know sounds crazy. You will like it for racing though.
What surface did you run 5-10-5 on? I tried that on our dry slick track, one time. It did not work well at all for me.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:34 PM
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Default Rear Wheel Hub.

Broke a rear wheel hub the other day and lost the pin. I already the hubs so they should be on their way.

Is it a good idea to change to aluminums? I only bash.

Thanks guys
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by c0nr4d View Post
Broke a rear wheel hub the other day and lost the pin. I already the hubs so they should be on their way.

Is it a good idea to change to aluminums? I only bash.

Thanks guys
Just keep in mind that if you go to aluminum hubs. You will in turn break something else down the line, like a-arms.
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by badaml View Post
Anyone need the King pin bushings? Brand new Hot Bodies in the package, email me your address and I will drop them in an envelope and get them out to you, free.

This Vorza group is a great bunch, and has been very good to me, and very helpful. I no longer have a Vorza as some of you know, and keep finding random parts lol.

[email protected]

Email is preferred as it is easier to check from my phone
Bushings claimed by B. Cald. Will ship today, 6/14
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisVorzaNinja View Post
try 5-10-5. I know sounds crazy. You will like it for racing though.
Originally Posted by PorTX View Post
What surface did you run 5-10-5 on? I tried that on our dry slick track, one time. It did not work well at all for me.
I'm new to 1/8 racing so dif oil is a bit confusing. I need a bit more power going to the front tires. Wouldn't going with a heavier oil in the center put more power to the rear tires?

I talked to the fastest guys at the track and the #'s I kept hearing was 5 7 2. But that's in buggies that are lighter than the Vorza. I have an extra center and f/r dif so I think I need to spend a day experimenting. Another thing I was running med compound tires, I was spinning every where. I just ordered two sets of soft compound tires. That should help some.

Thanks for the input guys!!
Jerry
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by PorTX View Post
Just keep in mind that if you go to aluminum hubs. You will in turn break something else down the line, like a-arms.
True.
I like the price of the stock too lol.
Thanks PorTX
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:13 AM
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just to chime in here on the racing...

ive found that right before the start bell, reach over and snap off the guys antenna that is standing next to you. at least you beat that guy.
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bigben1165 View Post
just to chime in here on the racing...

ive found that right before the start bell, reach over and snap off the guys antenna that is standing next to you. at least you beat that guy.
I laughed so hard my wife thought I was losing it! That's a great idea Ben, I can see a few flaws in your plan though. LOLOLOLOLOL
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:01 AM
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thats probably why i dont race.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:30 AM
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Default Front Arm Pin

Im sure this has been discussed many many times so I hope you guys dont mind me asking again. This past weekend I went to the track for the first time with the Vorza. I loved it, but the joy was short lived. I would say within the first 45 minutes I cracked my front Diff and bent my front arm pin twice! lol

You must be thinking im a horrible driver or was just out bashing on the track but it was just a very competitive run. Both happened while on air. I was neck to neck with a RC8 on both incidents, both times we bumped while on the air. The only difference is he hit the fence, I hit a solid block wall. On that incident my front pin popped out causing my right arm to come off. The second time around same thing, pin popped out and thats when I noticed the diff housing was slightly cracked and well, the pin was out once again.

So my question is... how do you keep that pin from popping out besides avoiding hitting a wall lol.

I had already installed metal washers on the screw next to the pin to hold it in place but it still managed to pop out. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mysupratoy94 View Post
This past weekend I went to the track for the first time with the Vorza......... I loved it, but the joy was short lived.... within the first 45 minutes I cracked my front Diff and bent my front arm pin twice! lol ....but it was just a very competitive run. Both happened while on air........we bumped while on the air...... The only difference is he hit the fence, I hit a solid block wall.

So my question is... how do you keep that pin from popping out besides avoiding hitting a wall lol.

I had already installed metal washers on the screw next to the pin to hold it in place but it still managed to pop out. Any suggestions?
Post a picture of your car. If the washers you used covered even 1/3 of the hinge pin, the pin could not come out unless it ripped the screw and washer off, or busted an A-arm. Did you install washers on both the front and back of the A-arm? I would also say that, no matter what car, or brand. If you hit a solid object at speed, you any most likely going to bend something or break something.

Last edited by PorTX; 06-14-2011 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jones8352 View Post
I'm new to 1/8 racing so dif oil is a bit confusing. I need a bit more power going to the front tires. Wouldn't going with a heavier oil in the center put more power to the rear tires?
I am also new to the 1/8th racing scene. If you ask 3 people you will likely get 3 answers to the diff oil weight vs. power transfer.

Some will say....
thicker oil is more solid, so it would be more "direct" and apply more power due to the oil not "giving" as much as thinner oils.

Others will say....
thinner oil will provide less resistance, therefore allowing more power to be transferred in less time.

Here is a part of the "buggy set-up guide" from JQ's, The Car.
A good starting point that will work for all cars is, front-centre-rear, 5000-7000-3000. This is a popular basic set up and if your car is terrible, and you have this diff set up, you can be sure that it’s not the diffs. It will be decent everywhere. However, on THE Car, I tend to like to run a thicker diff in the front, to smooth out the aggressive steering, and a thinner in the middle, to smooth out the acceleration and punch, so 7000-5000-3000.

Diffs can make you fast or slow. Everyone has their own driving style, and it is good to try different diff combinations for oneself, to see what feels best, and what is the fastest combination. Normally thinner oils will make the car easier to drive. On slippery, bumpy tracks thinner oils are better. On smooth high traction tracks thicker diffs will be better. Thicker diffs give more acceleration, more cornerspeed, and help to make the car more stable on a high traction surface. On special tracks, that are really smooth and high traction, asphalt like, the car will be a lot more stable and fast in the corners if all diff oils are made thicker. Front and centre by about 10000 compared to the normal set up, and rear maybe 5000. Because the track is so smooth you can get away with it.

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