16LikesHPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
10-16-2010, 12:12 PM
#2401
Tech Apprentice
Thanks kennyrc for the info. But I'm still stuck on the servo & shock stuffs.
How to determine which type of servo to get?
What are the type of specifications to look for when getting one? How to know whether it's compatible with the receiver?
If i planned to get Hitec HS-7955TG, where to get the metal servo horn for this?
How about the servo programming?
As for the shocks, i already bought 112mm rear shock tower & 112mm big bore shocks. What does the spring colour means?
I want to fill 50wt in front & 55wt at rear, is it OK or too much for bashing?
Please help.
How to determine which type of servo to get?
What are the type of specifications to look for when getting one? How to know whether it's compatible with the receiver?
If i planned to get Hitec HS-7955TG, where to get the metal servo horn for this?
How about the servo programming?
As for the shocks, i already bought 112mm rear shock tower & 112mm big bore shocks. What does the spring colour means?
I want to fill 50wt in front & 55wt at rear, is it OK or too much for bashing?
Please help.
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/67168.html
If you are just bashing don't get too hung up on shock oil its cheap & easy to replace. I would go 45wt with 60mm grey springs up front & if using the 112mm shocks 55 or 60 wt with 68mm red springs in rear.
10-16-2010, 12:22 PM
#2402
Tech Rookie
so excited, just got mine today at Hobbytown going out of business sale for 20% off NIB for $520!
10-16-2010, 12:54 PM
#2403
i seem to need some help. i dont understand why does my vorza studders when accelerating. what is the problem?
once i go full throttle it studders and accelerate like its humping the ground. someone enlighten me please.
what are the problems that might cause the studdering?
currently using stock gearing, 7000wt rear diff 3000wt centre diff 5000wt front diff.
once i go full throttle it studders and accelerate like its humping the ground. someone enlighten me please.
what are the problems that might cause the studdering?
currently using stock gearing, 7000wt rear diff 3000wt centre diff 5000wt front diff.
10-17-2010, 03:37 AM
#2404
Tech Apprentice
i seem to need some help. i dont understand why does my vorza studders when accelerating. what is the problem?
once i go full throttle it studders and accelerate like its humping the ground. someone enlighten me please.
what are the problems that might cause the studdering?
currently using stock gearing, 7000wt rear diff 3000wt centre diff 5000wt front diff.
once i go full throttle it studders and accelerate like its humping the ground. someone enlighten me please.
what are the problems that might cause the studdering?
currently using stock gearing, 7000wt rear diff 3000wt centre diff 5000wt front diff.
10-17-2010, 05:23 PM
#2405
Tech Apprentice
1. Wheels, I allways use Proline V2. Tyres depends what the
surface/conditions are. Wing, I find the Losi 8ight wing or J-Concepts wing to work the best.
2. Diffs come filled at 5-10-5. Run the diffs in with this setup & change to suit. I currently run 5-5-3 or 7-7-3. WT or CST this depends on whose brand it is, use one brand & stick to it.
3. Pinion pitch is Mod 1. Buy the Hot Bodies VE8 pinions, good price & good quality. On 4S try 17 or 18 tooth pinion on standard 48T spur.
4. Servo saver horn, the numbers (26,25,24,23) relate to number of spines the servo output shaft has. Futaba 25, Hitec 24 & so on. A good quality high torque digital servo form Savox or Futaba allways top of my list.
5. Spare parts, shock shafts, rear hubs. Grease use Mugen Super Joint Grease.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MUGEN-SEIKI-B0...item1e5edba4c8
6. Shock springs, 68mm red on rear, 60mm greay or white up front.
7. Radio, DX3S & R good value, can't go wrong. 4PK or 4PKS the best in my opion.
Hope that helps..
surface/conditions are. Wing, I find the Losi 8ight wing or J-Concepts wing to work the best.
2. Diffs come filled at 5-10-5. Run the diffs in with this setup & change to suit. I currently run 5-5-3 or 7-7-3. WT or CST this depends on whose brand it is, use one brand & stick to it.
3. Pinion pitch is Mod 1. Buy the Hot Bodies VE8 pinions, good price & good quality. On 4S try 17 or 18 tooth pinion on standard 48T spur.
4. Servo saver horn, the numbers (26,25,24,23) relate to number of spines the servo output shaft has. Futaba 25, Hitec 24 & so on. A good quality high torque digital servo form Savox or Futaba allways top of my list.
5. Spare parts, shock shafts, rear hubs. Grease use Mugen Super Joint Grease.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MUGEN-SEIKI-B0...item1e5edba4c8
6. Shock springs, 68mm red on rear, 60mm greay or white up front.
7. Radio, DX3S & R good value, can't go wrong. 4PK or 4PKS the best in my opion.
Hope that helps..
Last edited by gikkoraj; 10-17-2010 at 10:58 PM.
10-18-2010, 07:03 AM
#2406
Tech Initiate
10-19-2010, 11:47 AM
#2407
1. Wheels, I allways use Proline V2. Tyres depends what the
surface/conditions are. Wing, I find the Losi 8ight wing or J-Concepts wing to work the best.
2. Diffs come filled at 5-10-5. Run the diffs in with this setup & change to suit. I currently run 5-5-3 or 7-7-3. WT or CST this depends on whose brand it is, use one brand & stick to it.
3. Pinion pitch is Mod 1. Buy the Hot Bodies VE8 pinions, good price & good quality. On 4S try 17 or 18 tooth pinion on standard 48T spur.
4. Servo saver horn, the numbers (26,25,24,23) relate to number of spines the servo output shaft has. Futaba 25, Hitec 24 & so on. A good quality high torque digital servo form Savox or Futaba allways top of my list.
5. Spare parts, shock shafts, rear hubs. Grease use Mugen Super Joint Grease.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MUGEN-SEIKI-B0...item1e5edba4c8
6. Shock springs, 68mm red on rear, 60mm greay or white up front.
7. Radio, DX3S & R good value, can't go wrong. 4PK or 4PKS the best in my opion.
Hope that helps..
surface/conditions are. Wing, I find the Losi 8ight wing or J-Concepts wing to work the best.
2. Diffs come filled at 5-10-5. Run the diffs in with this setup & change to suit. I currently run 5-5-3 or 7-7-3. WT or CST this depends on whose brand it is, use one brand & stick to it.
3. Pinion pitch is Mod 1. Buy the Hot Bodies VE8 pinions, good price & good quality. On 4S try 17 or 18 tooth pinion on standard 48T spur.
4. Servo saver horn, the numbers (26,25,24,23) relate to number of spines the servo output shaft has. Futaba 25, Hitec 24 & so on. A good quality high torque digital servo form Savox or Futaba allways top of my list.
5. Spare parts, shock shafts, rear hubs. Grease use Mugen Super Joint Grease.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MUGEN-SEIKI-B0...item1e5edba4c8
6. Shock springs, 68mm red on rear, 60mm greay or white up front.
7. Radio, DX3S & R good value, can't go wrong. 4PK or 4PKS the best in my opion.
Hope that helps..
so the stock gearing is 48/17? this thing is wickedly fast, but doesn't seem to have the top-end to match. the 18T pinon will increase the top end right...but will it overheat the motor/esc? i'm into nitro already, but this is my first electric.
10-19-2010, 01:50 PM
#2408
Tech Apprentice
hey guys. just picked up a used vorza. going to be getting some of the things discussed in this thread.
so the stock gearing is 48/17? this thing is wickedly fast, but doesn't seem to have the top-end to match. the 18T pinon will increase the top end right...but will it overheat the motor/esc? i'm into nitro already, but this is my first electric.
so the stock gearing is 48/17? this thing is wickedly fast, but doesn't seem to have the top-end to match. the 18T pinon will increase the top end right...but will it overheat the motor/esc? i'm into nitro already, but this is my first electric.
10-19-2010, 03:32 PM
#2409
10-20-2010, 06:47 AM
#2410
truggy wheels
quick question.
if i want to be able to switch the vorza to a truggy i know the wheels are bigger and the rears will rub on the chassis. what if the wheel are '1/2 offset'? it looks like these wheels sit out 1/2 farther from the the hub. would this take care of the rear tires rubbing?
thanks
if i want to be able to switch the vorza to a truggy i know the wheels are bigger and the rears will rub on the chassis. what if the wheel are '1/2 offset'? it looks like these wheels sit out 1/2 farther from the the hub. would this take care of the rear tires rubbing?
thanks
10-21-2010, 05:17 AM
#2411
guys i was wondering. when you change ur vorza's motor to 2650kv, do you get the motor from TORK or any brands would work with the ESC from TORK? cos i was thinking of getting a savage flux hp but the dealers in US said that i cant change the motor but instead purchase a separate motor. im thinkin of swapping the motor with the stock 2200kv motor in my vorza with the TORK 2650kv motor.
10-21-2010, 11:29 AM
#2412
i seem to need some help. i dont understand why does my vorza studders when accelerating. what is the problem?
once i go full throttle it studders and accelerate like its humping the ground. someone enlighten me please.
what are the problems that might cause the studdering?
currently using stock gearing, 7000wt rear diff 3000wt centre diff 5000wt front diff.
once i go full throttle it studders and accelerate like its humping the ground. someone enlighten me please.
what are the problems that might cause the studdering?
currently using stock gearing, 7000wt rear diff 3000wt centre diff 5000wt front diff.
Check if the distance between you and the car affects your studdering issue. If studdering gets worse when car is further away, swap RX/TX for a better one. This happened to a friend of mine. The stock Rx/Tx was causing the studdering.
10-21-2010, 06:03 PM
#2413
Does the Vorza use the 3mm and 4mm screws right?
I have been thinking about getting a Vorza... I want a basher. I also want something easy to repair. I like screws that tie parts together using bolts/nuts. Not screws that go into the plastic. I like the fact the RC8Be seems to have screws that use nuts to hold parts together rather then screwing directly into plastic parks(eventually strips).
What does the Vorza have to offer over the RC8Be? I noticed the Vorza uses those bog threaded machine screws. I was hopping for M3/M4 only.
I have been thinking about getting a Vorza... I want a basher. I also want something easy to repair. I like screws that tie parts together using bolts/nuts. Not screws that go into the plastic. I like the fact the RC8Be seems to have screws that use nuts to hold parts together rather then screwing directly into plastic parks(eventually strips).
What does the Vorza have to offer over the RC8Be? I noticed the Vorza uses those bog threaded machine screws. I was hopping for M3/M4 only.
10-21-2010, 06:25 PM
#2414
Tech Apprentice
guys i was wondering. when you change ur vorza's motor to 2650kv, do you get the motor from TORK or any brands would work with the ESC from TORK? cos i was thinking of getting a savage flux hp but the dealers in US said that i cant change the motor but instead purchase a separate motor. im thinkin of swapping the motor with the stock 2200kv motor in my vorza with the TORK 2650kv motor.
for instance on ebay the leopard brand version of the regular motor that comes in the vorza (even has same heatsink casing) is $59.50
the 2650 is designed for 16.8volt 4S buggies. according to the nue castle creations website. this motor's max power is only 2000w. At 4S you'll see a marginal 1-4mile an hour increase in speed. if you're looking for more speed at higher than 4S/16.8v then go with a 2000kv 2600watt 39mm motor. you'll need a larger pinion then you're using with the standard 2200kv tork/castle motor that comes in the vorza stock as the 2000kv will have more power.
FYI, the Leopard sell the 2650kv as a 2700kv if you're looking for the 4S solution and are comparing prices.
goto ebay and search "leopard brushless"
tork style heat sink black 2000kv $59.50+shipping (seller: kowloontown, hong kong, paypal)
smooth red Leopard 2200kv $84.87 w/ free international shipping (seller: szrcmodelshop, from hongkong, paypal)
you can also buy directly from leopard themselves. google them. you want a 4 pole/class inrunner 39mm brushless motor. 2000-2150kv for 26v/6s batteries and 2350-2700kv for 16.8v/4S.
10-22-2010, 06:28 AM
#2415
[QUOTE=ptv83;8105389]i use 6S and 18/42 gearing without any problems.
wouldn't that put you back around stock gearing?
wouldn't that put you back around stock gearing?