gulio

iTrader: (32)

Their NI packs were bad, the LI types are supposedly a bit better.

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

I've seen some swear by them and others swear at them.

They seem to be hit and miss. Venoms prob has been it takes too long from teh time their batts are made to get them to the customer. Complain where you bought them, see if they have anything thing to offer in the way of help.

ptv83

if your batteries are under 35C then there is a good chance that they are going to get hot and puff if you're running over 70% throttle alot for more than ~10seconds each time.

the flux system in the vorza will want to draw about (typically depending on castle link setings.. but stock) about 31~33C when a 25v battery is detected at startup. i always recommend running (for value) the blue turnigy 35-45C 5000mah. for only $50 each,, why not right? and turnigy nanotech 45-90C 5000mah's.. for just $67.. boo-yea!

the higher the voltage detected, the more the Mamba monster will draw (vorza uses rebadged mamba system).

if your batteries are not above 25C minimum, you should not be using them at all. even says so in the manual.

if your batteries discharge rate is high enough for your needs, then your charger and or balancer may not be properly performing. each of your battery cells should be no more than 4.22V when fully charged, and should never reach more than 4.25v during a charge with out of line balance chargers like the Passport, Triton1/2 EX, and most other ac/dc balance chargers.

after having your battery puff for the first time, be sure to charge your battery to 80%-90%(at 1C only!),
slow balance all the way to perfect balance,
then discharge(without balancing) to 3.6v per cell,
measure the balance(should be no more than 0.05v out)

_if it's out by 0.05v or more, recharge and repeat._ if it goes out by 0.02v MORE than before.. your battery cell is trashed. and must by warrantied, or removed from pack to make a safe lipo pack one cell smaller... or disposed of safely as hazardous waist at a battery recycling centre.

hope this helps.. cheers, eh! Phil.

bigben1165

iTrader: (9)

dang! thats not good!

bigben1165

iTrader: (9)

i talked to James at customer service and i told him the situation and he gave me an RMA# and told me to send BOTH of my packs back in to him. they are going to replace them with better packs! i will pay the difference but i wanted to run 6s from the start, not 3+3. the new packs he is sending are 50C! i was very happy with how i was treated by Venom. for what its worth!

bnangle

Does anyone know how the 2350 motor and esc would do in the vorza at 14.8 volts?It should be faster but Im not sure.

gulio

iTrader: (32)

I'm guessing that would be a "perfect" combo.

ptv83

i saw this answered in a thread somewhere, 1-5mph faster. depending on gearing of course. acceleration wasn't answered. i know somebody who's buying the leopard version shortly(leopard sell all of the castle/hpi tork(flux) motors at fraction of the cost in various colours). When he get's his motor i'll see if he'll let me run it in my vorza for you.

in other words not really worth the money(unless you buy the leopard version) if you don't need to spend it. but if all you're running is 14.8 volts then it may be worth while if you're looking to buy a motor anyways.

BUT, if you're looking to buy new electronices, keep in mind it's extremely unsafe to run more than 14.8v in the ESC that is normally paired with it when bought in combo. it's been known to be sold as a 6S system, but it's only a modified Mamba pro designed for 2S-4S.

horseteeth

I know the Kyosho inferno mp9 body fits the vorza like a glove but cant remember if anyone tried the Jconcepts Illuzion MP9 hi-flow body? would it work?

kennyrc

I use the JC body on my Vorza..

gikkoraj

Hi everyone. I'm new to RC world. I just bought my Vorza recently together with 112mm shock tower, 112mm big bore shocks & also bought four pieces of Turnigy 2-cell 5800Mah 28C Lipo. I haven't run it yet. So my questions are:-

1. I'm looking for nice wheels & wing for this kit. Should i get tires & rims separately or one that comes together & from which brand to get? For a good looking sporty wing, I've no idea which one & also where to get.

2. Does the stock vorza comes with diffs & shocks filled with silicone oil or is it empty? What weight to use for the front & rear shocks & also for front-centre-rear diff? By the way which one to follow, "wt" or "cst"?

3. For the gearing, what is mod1, 32p, 48p? What gearing to use for pinion & spur? My preference is to bash 60% and play on track 40%.

4. What is servo horn & servo saver. I'm shy to ask this but no choice I'm still in learning pace. Which one would you recommend? Whats the number for e.g. 26, 25, 24, 23 found on servo saver or servo horn? What's the specs to look for when buying a servo since there are so many types servos & many specifications to look it to.

5. For maintenance, which type of diff lube or grease should i look for? What are the common parts should i stock up that always breaks? How about the maintenance for bearings, diffs, shocks & other parts?

6. Shock spring - What type of spring & length to look for & how's the spring colours & rating numbers determines the spring strength?

7. For the radio system which one would you recommend, DX3R, 4PKS, M11X, 4PK or any other decent one?

Thanks in advance for the for the suggestions & inputs...

kennyrc

1. Wheels, I allways use Proline V2. Tyres depends what the
surface/conditions are. Wing, I find the Losi 8ight wing or J-Concepts wing to work the best.

2. Diffs come filled at 5-10-5. Run the diffs in with this setup & change to suit. I currently run 5-5-3 or 7-7-3. WT or CST this depends on whose brand it is, use one brand & stick to it.

3. Pinion pitch is Mod 1. Buy the Hot Bodies VE8 pinions, good price & good quality. On 4S try 17 or 18 tooth pinion on standard 48T spur.

4. Servo saver horn, the numbers (26,25,24,23) relate to number of spines the servo output shaft has. Futaba 25, Hitec 24 & so on. A good quality high torque digital servo form Savox or Futaba allways top of my list.

5. Spare parts, shock shafts, rear hubs. Grease use Mugen Super Joint Grease.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MUGEN-SEIKI-B0...item1e5edba4c8

6. Shock springs, 68mm red on rear, 60mm greay or white up front.

7. Radio, DX3S & R good value, can't go wrong. 4PK or 4PKS the best in my opion.

Hope that helps..

fievel

iTrader: (5)

I am having trouble finding the vorza servo saver for my Ve8. I believe the part number is hpi104156. none of the online stores seem to have it and hpi doesnt even have it listed. does anyone know of where i might be able to find it? Thanks

armoredsaint

tag

gikkoraj

Thanks kennyrc for the info. But I'm still stuck on the servo & shock stuffs.

How to determine which type of servo to get?
What are the type of specifications to look for when getting one? How to know whether it's compatible with the receiver?
If i planned to get Hitec HS-7955TG, where to get the metal servo horn for this?
How about the servo programming?

As for the shocks, i already bought 112mm rear shock tower & 112mm big bore shocks. What does the spring colour means?
I want to fill 50wt in front & 55wt at rear, is it OK or too much for bashing?

Please help.