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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

Old 08-29-2010, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by njmose1 View Post
finally had mine at the track today. everything is stock on it. biggest problem i had was the rear end kickin up over every little bump. several times it was enough to flip it over.

can anyone help with this?
I had the exact same problem. I've seemed to sort it out though (either with my driving or?). I am running the stock red springs and associated 50wt in rear. Also have the shocks on lower outside holes and middle upper. In the front I have stock gray springs and running associated 40wt, stock mounting holes on front. I did raise my ride height to 31 rear and 29 front. I saw some setup sheets with these settings for rough tracks and it seems to be working on mine. When I first started I was on my lid all the time now hardly ever.

Do you run any skid pads on your chassis? I have the de racing ones and it seemed to catch and bounce up on the rough stuff. Once I raised the chassis I don't seem to notice as much.
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:15 PM
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no i'm not runnin with the skid pads. i'll have to give that set up a try, thanks. i was thinkin about trying the red springs in the rear first though to see if that helped.
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:24 AM
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Default single lipo for vorza

hey, i just came from 10 years of helis, have a quick question. can i use a single 5s lipo in the vorza? can i split the battery connector into 2 deans connectors and use it that way? im waiting on some adapters to use my venom packs.

thanks. care to ask why i left helis?
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bigben1165 View Post
hey, i just came from 10 years of helis, have a quick question. can i use a single 5s lipo in the vorza? can i split the battery connector into 2 deans connectors and use it that way? im waiting on some adapters to use my venom packs.

thanks. care to ask why i left helis?
I'll bite. Did something get chopped off? That's always a fear of mine (I'm learning to fly helis now).

The ESC on the Vorza has 2 connectors out of the box. I cut them and combined them into a single deans, and made a "y-adapter" to connect to this single deans in case I ever wanted to run two batteries.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:51 AM
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thanks for the info on the speed control. Just about...

Logo 700 with new flybarless head, went crazy and hit me with 2000 head speed. broke my left forearm, wrist and hand. Lacerations on my wrist down to the bone, three on my chest and 2 on my right leg. 46 stitches. check out RCHeli mag either next month or the month after, Mike Velez is doing a safety write up on it.
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by njmose1 View Post
finally had mine at the track today. everything is stock on it. biggest problem i had was the rear end kickin up over every little bump. several times it was enough to flip it over.

can anyone help with this?
The problem is the rear of the chassis hitting the floor and bouncing up, the stock springs (which are actually orange but look red) are far too soft, change them for firmer ones, for example the red 68mm springs. now with the firmer springs it will be a bit over sprung, so it'll seem bouncy again, therefore up the weight of the oil to slow the movement down a bit. depending on the weight of your batteries; you will probably need around 8 to 10mm preload.

the springs can be seen here http://www.hpieurope.com/options.php...&partNo=103421
part number 67449 are stock orange ones and part 67452 are better red ones.

HTH
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben1165 View Post
thanks for the info on the speed control. Just about...

Logo 700 with new flybarless head, went crazy and hit me with 2000 head speed. broke my left forearm, wrist and hand. Lacerations on my wrist down to the bone, three on my chest and 2 on my right leg. 46 stitches. check out RCHeli mag either next month or the month after, Mike Velez is doing a safety write up on it.
Holy crap man, that's insanity! You're lucky to be posting on these forums today, and I'm starting to doubt my endeavor! I think I'll stick to the 150-200 size helis... eesh.

Not long ago, a friend of my dad's was starting his gasser plane when it throttled up out of nowhere and crawled into his lap... ate up his midsection and hands pretty good

But yeah.. Vorza... land vehicles... we have cake & ice cream... and it's almost completely safe!
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Lgbzone View Post
The problem is the rear of the chassis hitting the floor and bouncing up, the stock springs (which are actually orange but look red) are far too soft, change them for firmer ones, for example the red 68mm springs. now with the firmer springs it will be a bit over sprung, so it'll seem bouncy again, therefore up the weight of the oil to slow the movement down a bit. depending on the weight of your batteries; you will probably need around 8 to 10mm preload.

the springs can be seen here http://www.hpieurope.com/options.php...&partNo=103421
part number 67449 are stock orange ones and part 67452 are better red ones.

HTH

i have the red springs ordered. according to the book, there is 45wt in the rear shocks. do you think 50wt would be enough? the batteries i have are 281g each.
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Old 09-01-2010, 12:58 AM
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I use 600 oil made by "Edit", i think this is the equivalent of about 55 wt oil, so i'd start with 55.

my batteries are about 310g each and i'm using red springs, 600 oil and about 9/10mm preload, this gives me a slightly high ride height at the back, probably about 31/32mm, but i race on rough tracks so it isn't an issue. it's also far better than it bottoming out all the time. yours being lighter, you'll probably want a little less preload.

try that as a starting point and experiment, the red springs leave lots of scope to add and remove preload, to change the firmness of the spring, and oils are cheap.
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:33 AM
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Default logo 700

yeah they are dangerous, even the little ones! so...back to the cars!! these are a lot different from when i left! still have my gold tub RC10!
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:54 AM
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Default gearing

i want to increase the teeth in my pinion gear from 15. can i go all the way to 21 without having to change the spur? (ie) is there enough room to adjust the gear mesh?

thanks
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bigben1165 View Post
i want to increase the teeth in my pinion gear from 15. can i go all the way to 21 without having to change the spur? (ie) is there enough room to adjust the gear mesh?

thanks
As far as the manual says you can go up to 19t with stock 48t spur. you can go up to 21t with a 46t spur
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:18 PM
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If anyone is looking for a good cleaner go to lowes or home depot and pick up Paslode Cordless Tool Cleaner. You will find it by the power tools obviously. It is safe for internal electronic components, safe on plastic, and works great.

Last edited by kruser75; 09-01-2010 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 09-03-2010, 10:51 AM
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Default slop in the Vorza system

Hey guys
quick question for you all. i am coming from RC helicopters where slop in the mechanical system can make the difference between a perfect heli and one that wont even leave the ground. The Vorza rocks! but there is so much slop in the steering, wheel mounts and the drive train, i cant beleive the car can even drive straight! Is this something that all cars/trucks have? do i need to go in and start shimming and getting rid of all of the slop? Do i except it as the norm? any guidance would be great.

im afraid that if i solidify everything, ill find out that this is the reason it doesnt blow up when its going 60mph! there is probably +/-10 degrees of play in the front wheels!

thanks
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Old 09-03-2010, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bigben1165 View Post
Hey guys
quick question for you all. i am coming from RC helicopters where slop in the mechanical system can make the difference between a perfect heli and one that wont even leave the ground. The Vorza rocks! but there is so much slop in the steering, wheel mounts and the drive train, i cant beleive the car can even drive straight! Is this something that all cars/trucks have? do i need to go in and start shimming and getting rid of all of the slop? Do i except it as the norm? any guidance would be great.

im afraid that if i solidify everything, ill find out that this is the reason it doesnt blow up when its going 60mph! there is probably +/-10 degrees of play in the front wheels!

thanks
I'm curious also. I don't mind the play in the driveline as dogbones will always have a little play and there are many in the vorza. But the front steering is pretty loose. There is slop where the hub carriers and a-arms come together. Just wondering if anyone has shimmed these to tighten it up?
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