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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

Old 07-09-2010, 04:22 AM
  #2101  
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Originally Posted by jcbudny View Post
After reading through some posts on here I decided to go with the Mugen D8 3mm outer hing pins

http://m2cracing.com/product.sc?prod...&categoryId=-1

Hopefully it'll solve my problem as disqualifying for an entire evening's races due to one little pin stinks!
I have these and they are well worth it, no problems at all.
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by HYDE16 View Post
does this one go within the ESC fan shroud or does it bolt on top of the motor mount? how did you get it wired to the receiver?
It will work for either one Hyde. The demonsions are the same. It will also work with the CC Blower fan/shroud unit for the motor.

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Old 07-09-2010, 07:19 AM
  #2103  
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Thanks ben! I can't wait to race this Sunday.

I love this buggy so much I'm actually pricing out a D8T nitro build!
Anyone have one?
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HYDE16 View Post
Thanks ben! I can't wait to race this Sunday.

I love this buggy so much I'm actually pricing out a D8T nitro build!
Anyone have one?
I did a converted D8T. It is sick. My LHS owner drives a Mugen Nitro Truggy and I let him drive my D8T. He was really impressed with it. He even did some stuff on the track he could never do with his Mugen, mainly a quad triple through a huge rythm section that he normally triple double double. My tires weren't even hooking up because the track was dry.

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Old 07-09-2010, 08:13 AM
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The D8T looks awesome, I can't believe how similar it is to our Vorzas, check this out:

http://rc-racing.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=9589

What nitro engine and pipe should I strap in there?
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HYDE16 View Post
The D8T looks awesome, I can't believe how similar it is to our Vorzas, check this out:

http://rc-racing.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=9589

What nitro engine and pipe should I strap in there?
Page is blocked, can't see it at work. I know nothing about nitro stuff. I did use a ton of Vorza parts in my conversion though. Sometimes I rob parts from my Vorza or from the D8T to repair the other while I'm at the track. Only parts that don't work on both are the ones that are longer or shorter.

BTW, the Vorza steering set and servo saver are stronger than the stock D8T unit. I guess they used a different plastic or something. I'm using a Vorza unit on my D8T now after the stock broke.

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Old 07-09-2010, 08:30 AM
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Ben, what do you think the next best upgrade should be for my Vorza?

lightweight parts?
CVDs?
Elite motor mount? (although the recent feedback scares me)

Also, the main track I race at has some tight turns that I find myself really having to slow down for to avoid the pipe....any way to get a better turning radius on the car?
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HYDE16 View Post
Ben, what do you think the next best upgrade should be for my Vorza?

lightweight parts?
CVDs?
Elite motor mount? (although the recent feedback scares me)

Also, the main track I race at has some tight turns that I find myself really having to slow down for to avoid the pipe....any way to get a better turning radius on the car?
I'm not sure I can help with this one. I'm also trying to get tighter steering. That is why I'm playing with my droop settings. Might try less ride height in the front and or take out some droop to get more weight on the front under braking.

I try to come into the turns hot, coast through to the appex on the brakes (trail braking into the turn) then power out on the exit.

The Elite motor mount won't really improve the buggy, but it sure makes pinion adjustments, changes, etc much easier. The biggest issue with the mount is it wasn't really designed with the Flux motor in mind. Those heatsink bars get in the way. If I had easy access to a mill, I'd take them off completely.

I wonder what CC would charge to replace the shell with a CC unit instead? CC has a new 1800kv buggy motor. I need longer run times, and I may give this a try if I decide it is worth the money. I drove a Hyper 9 with one in it last week and it was smooth.

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Old 07-09-2010, 08:55 AM
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Is the 1800Kv motor a "slower" motor with less power?
I wouldn't mind trading the current motor for a less powerful one.

I wonder if it will bolt up the Elite mount without any modifications (shaving down the can).

How much for the new motor?
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:06 AM
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I'm not sure if slower is really the right way to describe it. The lower kv motors are more efficient. Typically you run these lower kv motors with 5S and 6S packs, which are also more efficient. Don't need as much mAh with 6S to get the same run time or better as you do with 4S.

Either way, if you put an 1800kv motor in, and continue to use 4S, you'll probably feel that it is slower when you drive it. It will have a similar top speed, but maybe not as much punch. To me, this is where that smooth feeling comes from. The throttle trigger on my friends buggy felt much more fluid and progressive, where mine is very touchy and light-switchish. With that motor, he could get more run time than me too.

I think he said it was $160 for the motor. If your Flux motor is in great shape, you can easily get $100 for, the put that towards a new motor. I hacked on my motor grinding off some of the heat sink stuff, so I don't know if I could sell it for $100. People like stuff that is like new.

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Old 07-10-2010, 12:53 PM
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Is it possibly to convert the Vorza to a truggy using D8T parts? Would it just be changing out the arms and drive shafts to accomplish this? Then gearing down for the larger tires and wheel base?

Our track is pretty small, rough, and very dust. We race one class with MT, Truggies, and Buggies and due to this my Vorza seems to get run over more often than not by the bigger boys, when this happens something usually breaks. I was wondering if a truggy conversion would help me a bit with getting knocked around by the other MT's / Truggies and give me better grip with the wider wheel base and larger tires for the rough dusty track.

Your thoughts?
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jcbudny View Post
Is it possibly to convert the Vorza to a truggy using D8T parts? Would it just be changing out the arms and drive shafts to accomplish this? Then gearing down for the larger tires and wheel base?

Our track is pretty small, rough, and very dust. We race one class with MT, Truggies, and Buggies and due to this my Vorza seems to get run over more often than not by the bigger boys, when this happens something usually breaks. I was wondering if a truggy conversion would help me a bit with getting knocked around by the other MT's / Truggies and give me better grip with the wider wheel base and larger tires for the rough dusty track.

Your thoughts?
It is possible. PM Vision, he did it for his road racing setup. You'll need the A-arms, axles, turn-buckles, etc. The chassis won't be as long as the truggy, and this could make it handle weird on the track.

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Old 07-11-2010, 05:56 PM
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What is a good Vorza body that has a bit more room under the hood? I have a hard time fitting my current LiPo's under the body and would like something with a bit more headroom. Has anybody got an recommendations on this?
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by jcbudny View Post
What is a good Vorza body that has a bit more room under the hood? I have a hard time fitting my current LiPo's under the body and would like something with a bit more headroom. Has anybody got an recommendations on this?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7114637-post1253.html
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:24 AM
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Hey,

I discovered this past weekend that the taller orange springs that I had been running were too stiff, even with no preload dialed in. The buggy was very loose in the rear. Tried a lot of settings before realizing that I needed softer springs.

All I had in my box was the stock white springs that were from the front of my D8T. Had to dial in all of the available preload to get the correct ride height with these springs, but boy did they make a huge difference.

This was combined with the right droop (98mm front, 100mm rear) and the correct ride heights (27mm front, 28mm rear)

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