HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread
#1921
#1922

thank you for the info.
#1924

Just ordered all the WCE cvds. $180 later just got to wait for half of them to come off back order.
Has anyone used the light weight spur gear yet? When I try to correct in air the buggy torques over and is hard to land properly.
Has anyone used the light weight spur gear yet? When I try to correct in air the buggy torques over and is hard to land properly.
#1925

I have the lightweight spur on one of mine, can't tell the difference but i needed a spur and they're the same price.
my race vorza is totally kitted out with the wce parts, be warned when assembling them; the pins in the wce joints don't have a notch in them, the second the slightest play forms they will come out, buy the standard universal joint rebuild kits and use the pins from them, they have a small notch, when the pin comes loose it can move a bit but not all the way out so that it gets lost, check them often and tighten the grub screw as needed. also cover them with heat shrink tubing, ensure you get thick stuff, the first time i did mine it was too thin and the pin went through it, i wasn't using a notched pin at the time.
another thing; be careful not to apply too much thread lock to the grub screw, it can foul the movement of the joint.
they look far better than the dog bones.
cheers
my race vorza is totally kitted out with the wce parts, be warned when assembling them; the pins in the wce joints don't have a notch in them, the second the slightest play forms they will come out, buy the standard universal joint rebuild kits and use the pins from them, they have a small notch, when the pin comes loose it can move a bit but not all the way out so that it gets lost, check them often and tighten the grub screw as needed. also cover them with heat shrink tubing, ensure you get thick stuff, the first time i did mine it was too thin and the pin went through it, i wasn't using a notched pin at the time.
another thing; be careful not to apply too much thread lock to the grub screw, it can foul the movement of the joint.
they look far better than the dog bones.
cheers
#1926

I have the lightweight spur on one of mine, can't tell the difference but i needed a spur and they're the same price.
my race vorza is totally kitted out with the wce parts, be warned when assembling them; the pins in the wce joints don't have a notch in them, the second the slightest play forms they will come out, buy the standard universal joint rebuild kits and use the pins from them, they have a small notch, when the pin comes loose it can move a bit but not all the way out so that it gets lost, check them often and tighten the grub screw as needed. also cover them with heat shrink tubing, ensure you get thick stuff, the first time i did mine it was too thin and the pin went through it, i wasn't using a notched pin at the time.
another thing; be careful not to apply too much thread lock to the grub screw, it can foul the movement of the joint.
they look far better than the dog bones.
cheers
my race vorza is totally kitted out with the wce parts, be warned when assembling them; the pins in the wce joints don't have a notch in them, the second the slightest play forms they will come out, buy the standard universal joint rebuild kits and use the pins from them, they have a small notch, when the pin comes loose it can move a bit but not all the way out so that it gets lost, check them often and tighten the grub screw as needed. also cover them with heat shrink tubing, ensure you get thick stuff, the first time i did mine it was too thin and the pin went through it, i wasn't using a notched pin at the time.
another thing; be careful not to apply too much thread lock to the grub screw, it can foul the movement of the joint.
they look far better than the dog bones.
cheers
#1929
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)

Here's an MP9 body on my Vorza, it's held on with velcro at the mud guards.

Unfortunately, I'm selling it because the whole 1/8 scale thing just isn't for me. I enjoy racing 1/10 2wd more, it has been a great buggy though and is very competitive at the track.
If you guys know anyone looking for a great deal let em know:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7429428-post1.html

Unfortunately, I'm selling it because the whole 1/8 scale thing just isn't for me. I enjoy racing 1/10 2wd more, it has been a great buggy though and is very competitive at the track.
If you guys know anyone looking for a great deal let em know:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7429428-post1.html
#1930
Tech Adept

I had a great time with my Vorza on a pretty wet track yesterday. Can you tell by the picture that I had fun?!

#1931

I wish they could design these buggies to have a fully enclosed shell/chassis akin to a sealed R/C boat. I guess efficient cooling is the main issue. Water cooling probably wouldn't work and would add too much weight. I know some people use chassis shells but they still have holes where dust can enter (e.g. Antenna hole, Spur gear hole...etc).
The mind boggles.

#1932
Tech Rookie

Hello!
Did anyone buy a cooling fan for the stock engine mount?
And where did u attach the power connector?
Thx
Did anyone buy a cooling fan for the stock engine mount?
And where did u attach the power connector?
Thx
#1933

Here's an MP9 body on my Vorza, it's held on with velcro at the mud guards.

Unfortunately, I'm selling it because the whole 1/8 scale thing just isn't for me. I enjoy racing 1/10 2wd more, it has been a great buggy though and is very competitive at the track.
If you guys know anyone looking for a great deal let em know:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7429428-post1.html

Unfortunately, I'm selling it because the whole 1/8 scale thing just isn't for me. I enjoy racing 1/10 2wd more, it has been a great buggy though and is very competitive at the track.
If you guys know anyone looking for a great deal let em know:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7429428-post1.html
#1934

Anyone know how we can get more caster than the stock 10 degree's ?
#1935

Shim the hub/ put shims under the front bulkhead mount.