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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

Old 04-27-2010, 06:29 AM
  #1756  
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Anyone looking for a sorted electric 1:8 Hot Bodies, check it out here....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7326287
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:23 AM
  #1757  
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Originally Posted by horseteeth View Post
Thanks for the pics and update... how much clearance do you have with your batteries fitted and what height batts do you have? Also do you think it would fit ok if you hadn't rotated the ESC? Post some more pics up when you have it painted please!

Thanks again.
I posted some pics of my D8 Shift body a few pages ago, Page 114 towards the bottom. I would post a link, but the forums apparently won't let me until I reach a certain number of posts.

The Losi hard-case 4S lipo I'm running is 48mm tall, and the corner hits part of the body. You can see where I had to cut a section out to clear that corner. Also, because of the battery height, I had to raise the rear body post. If you don't rotate your ESC, you end up having to trim around the switch. I didn't bother rotating mine, and just opted to trim around instead.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:05 AM
  #1758  
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All painted, If you leave the esc in its stock spot, slide the battery trays all the way back, the little "vent" in the front of the body will clear the smaller batteries. It does sit on a few fins on the fan mount for the motor, so ill grind it a bit or look at the aftermarket one.

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Old 04-27-2010, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bmitchell373 View Post
All painted, If you leave the esc in its stock spot, slide the battery trays all the way back, the little "vent" in the front of the body will clear the smaller batteries. It does sit on a few fins on the fan mount for the motor, so ill grind it a bit or look at the aftermarket one.
Look sweet man! D8 Shift body is where it's at!
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:02 PM
  #1760  
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Word of caution...

At the track this weekend my Vorza suddenly stopped. Investigating why, I discovered that the ESC switch wires had somehow come loose, and got wrapped around the center drive shaft. It literally ripped the wires, cut clean right where they enter the ESC shell.

To fix it, I had to open the ESC up. The remaining wires were very short. I twisted them together and covered them with heat shrink. Now my ESC is always on. Oh well...

Might want to look closely at your's if you like running the switch and make sure the wires can't migrate into a vulnerable location.

ben
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:17 PM
  #1761  
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Originally Posted by keebler_rc View Post
Look sweet man! D8 Shift body is where it's at!
For sure, I was looking too, put a front body mount on the rear. Maybe it woulnt break cause theres no room to flex.
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:37 PM
  #1762  
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Originally Posted by danulmer18 View Post
Not only is it necessary to locktite the crap out of them I suggest using a small slice of large diameter heat shrink tubing and seal in the pin. Even with red locktite mine keep coming undone. The heat shrink sorts this out.
Thanks. I think I'll try that heatshrink solution + some locktite. I've also seen online some people who use high-grade silicone as an alternative to locktite.

I wonder how the front joints aren't replicating this issue? I would think they'd be more susceptible to this due to the constantly changing axis they endure whilst turning
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:06 PM
  #1763  
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I looked into getting the universal joints (centre diff to rear, centre diff to front and both rear axles), which was a bit confusing at first, and have come to the following conclusion and options; A) buy the standard bits and assemble myself, B) buy the standard sets, C) buy the WCE sets.

A) buy the standard bits
1 * 67408 - Hot Bodies 105mm Center/Rear Drive Shaft (single standard universal 105mm shaft, centre diff to rear)
2 * 67405 - Hot Bodies 91mm Drive Shaft (single standard universal 91mm shaft, rear diff to rear axle)
2 * 67404 - Hot Bodies Universal Joint Rebuild Kit (each one does two universal joints, attaches shaft to axle or coupler, 4 in total)
2 * 67402 - Hot Bodies Axle (1) (axles to connect to the 91mm shaft using 2 of the rebuild kits above)
2 * 67406 - Hot Bodies Center Drive Shaft Coupler (2 of these, they attach to the 2 shafts that run from the centre diff to the front and rear diffs, using 2 of the rebuild kits above)
1 * 67407 - Hot Bodies 78mm Center/Front Drive Shaft (single standard universal 78mm shaft, centre diff to front)

Cost 79.22


B) standard sets
1 * 103691 - UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT 105mm (CENTER REAR) (essentially this is 1*67408, 1*67404 and 1*67406 from the list above, this goes into the holder on the centre diff and the coupler at the other end of it goes onto the shaft coming out of the rear diff)
2 * HPI-67518 - Universal Drive Shaft Set D8 (each one of these is essentially 1*67405, 1*67404 and 1*67406 from the list above, each one goes into the holder on the rear diff with the other end of it replacing the dogbone axle through the centre of the wheel)
1 * HPI-67824 - Front Center Drive Shaft Set D8T (1Pc) (as above, it's the 78mm shaft with coupler and rebuild kit to fasten onto the front diff and the centre diff)

Cost 66.45


C) the WCE sets
1 * HPI-67178 - Wce Center Drive Shaft Set (105mm/1pc) (same as the first item in the standard set but wce)
2 * HPI-67177 - Wce Universal Drive Shaft (92mm/1pcs) (same as the second item in the standard set but wce)
1 * HPI-67179 - Wce Center Drive Shaft Set (78mm/1pc) (same as the thirditem in the standard set but wce)

Cost 110.16

For me; standard sets are the cheapest, followed by standard parts, then WCE.
There is also a front universal shaft that has a fancy coupler which improves the angle of the shaft.
Most of the separate parts are also available in WCE editions, including steel and alloy ones.

The bits that hold the dogbones onto the rear and front diffs, facing the centre diff, are held with grub screws, once removed the coupler slides on and can be held with the same grub screws, or new screws are available; part # Z722.

I have found that the new axles are far tighter in the hub/bearings than the original ones, i assume this is down to wear. my wheels had gained a large amount of sidewards play in them and changing the axles has removed this, I also got new bearings etc while i was at it.

In the end I went for the WCE sets, I figure the parts that wear will be the axles and rebuild joints, which are easly and cheaply replaced. after seeing the WCE sets i'm glad I did.



Hope this helps anyone considering moving to universals.

Lee
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:47 PM
  #1764  
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What is WCE?
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:57 PM
  #1765  
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World Champion Edition

Essentially uses better materials etc, the standard ones are painted black, these are polished steel
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Old 04-28-2010, 02:23 PM
  #1766  
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Ah, I knew they were better, just didn't know what it meant, thanks.
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Old 04-28-2010, 06:18 PM
  #1767  
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Originally Posted by *BBB* View Post
Also vision, what all tires have you found to hold up to the 6s lol
Using slicks currently, they seem to be holding up well just as long as I don't try and do donuts LOL
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:48 AM
  #1768  
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With Guiness Book of Records officials present, a rookie pilot jumps an HPI Vorza (on 6S) a length of 26 meters on a British TV show (aka 86 feet).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY-jB...eature=related
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:51 AM
  #1769  
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Originally Posted by wrexxy View Post
With Guiness Book of Records officials present, a rookie pilot jumps an HPI Vorza (on 6S) a length of 26 meters on a British TV show (aka 86 feet).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY-jB...eature=related
By the way... Something tells me Vision could beat this on his first try.
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Old 04-29-2010, 09:31 AM
  #1770  
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Originally Posted by wrexxy View Post
By the way... Something tells me Vision could beat this on his first try.
Vision is more of a street racer he doesnt jump lol
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