TC_Tuner

iTrader: (34)

Anyone looking for a sorted electric 1:8 Hot Bodies, check it out here....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7326287

keebler_rc

I posted some pics of my D8 Shift body a few pages ago, Page 114 towards the bottom. I would post a link, but the forums apparently won't let me until I reach a certain number of posts.

The Losi hard-case 4S lipo I'm running is 48mm tall, and the corner hits part of the body. You can see where I had to cut a section out to clear that corner. Also, because of the battery height, I had to raise the rear body post. If you don't rotate your ESC, you end up having to trim around the switch. I didn't bother rotating mine, and just opted to trim around instead.

bmitchell373

All painted, If you leave the esc in its stock spot, slide the battery trays all the way back, the little "vent" in the front of the body will clear the smaller batteries. It does sit on a few fins on the fan mount for the motor, so ill grind it a bit or look at the aftermarket one.

keebler_rc

Look sweet man! D8 Shift body is where it's at!

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Word of caution...

At the track this weekend my Vorza suddenly stopped. Investigating why, I discovered that the ESC switch wires had somehow come loose, and got wrapped around the center drive shaft. It literally ripped the wires, cut clean right where they enter the ESC shell.

To fix it, I had to open the ESC up. The remaining wires were very short. I twisted them together and covered them with heat shrink. Now my ESC is always on. Oh well...

Might want to look closely at your's if you like running the switch and make sure the wires can't migrate into a vulnerable location.

ben

bmitchell373

For sure, I was looking too, put a front body mount on the rear. Maybe it woulnt break cause theres no room to flex.

wrexxy

Thanks. I think I'll try that heatshrink solution + some locktite. I've also seen online some people who use high-grade silicone as an alternative to locktite.

I wonder how the front joints aren't replicating this issue? I would think they'd be more susceptible to this due to the constantly changing axis they endure whilst turning

Lgbzone

I looked into getting the universal joints (centre diff to rear, centre diff to front and both rear axles), which was a bit confusing at first, and have come to the following conclusion and options; A) buy the standard bits and assemble myself, B) buy the standard sets, C) buy the WCE sets.

A) buy the standard bits
1 * 67408 - Hot Bodies 105mm Center/Rear Drive Shaft (single standard universal 105mm shaft, centre diff to rear)
2 * 67405 - Hot Bodies 91mm Drive Shaft (single standard universal 91mm shaft, rear diff to rear axle)
2 * 67404 - Hot Bodies Universal Joint Rebuild Kit (each one does two universal joints, attaches shaft to axle or coupler, 4 in total)
2 * 67402 - Hot Bodies Axle (1) (axles to connect to the 91mm shaft using 2 of the rebuild kits above)
2 * 67406 - Hot Bodies Center Drive Shaft Coupler (2 of these, they attach to the 2 shafts that run from the centre diff to the front and rear diffs, using 2 of the rebuild kits above)
1 * 67407 - Hot Bodies 78mm Center/Front Drive Shaft (single standard universal 78mm shaft, centre diff to front)

Cost £79.22


B) standard sets
1 * 103691 - UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT 105mm (CENTER REAR) (essentially this is 1*67408, 1*67404 and 1*67406 from the list above, this goes into the holder on the centre diff and the coupler at the other end of it goes onto the shaft coming out of the rear diff)
2 * HPI-67518 - Universal Drive Shaft Set D8 (each one of these is essentially 1*67405, 1*67404 and 1*67406 from the list above, each one goes into the holder on the rear diff with the other end of it replacing the dogbone axle through the centre of the wheel)
1 * HPI-67824 - Front Center Drive Shaft Set D8T (1Pc) (as above, it's the 78mm shaft with coupler and rebuild kit to fasten onto the front diff and the centre diff)

Cost £66.45


C) the WCE sets
1 * HPI-67178 - Wce Center Drive Shaft Set (105mm/1pc) (same as the first item in the standard set but wce)
2 * HPI-67177 - Wce Universal Drive Shaft (92mm/1pcs) (same as the second item in the standard set but wce)
1 * HPI-67179 - Wce Center Drive Shaft Set (78mm/1pc) (same as the thirditem in the standard set but wce)

Cost £110.16

For me; standard sets are the cheapest, followed by standard parts, then WCE.
There is also a front universal shaft that has a fancy coupler which improves the angle of the shaft.
Most of the separate parts are also available in WCE editions, including steel and alloy ones.

The bits that hold the dogbones onto the rear and front diffs, facing the centre diff, are held with grub screws, once removed the coupler slides on and can be held with the same grub screws, or new screws are available; part # Z722.

I have found that the new axles are far tighter in the hub/bearings than the original ones, i assume this is down to wear. my wheels had gained a large amount of sidewards play in them and changing the axles has removed this, I also got new bearings etc while i was at it.

In the end I went for the WCE sets, I figure the parts that wear will be the axles and rebuild joints, which are easly and cheaply replaced. after seeing the WCE sets i'm glad I did.



Hope this helps anyone considering moving to universals.

Lee

bmitchell373

What is WCE?

Lgbzone

World Champion Edition

Essentially uses better materials etc, the standard ones are painted black, these are polished steel

bmitchell373

Ah, I knew they were better, just didn't know what it meant, thanks.

Vision

iTrader: (41)

Using slicks currently, they seem to be holding up well just as long as I don't try and do donuts LOL

wrexxy

With Guiness Book of Records officials present, a rookie pilot jumps an HPI Vorza (on 6S) a length of 26 meters on a British TV show (aka 86 feet).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY-jB...eature=related

wrexxy

By the way... Something tells me Vision could beat this on his first try.

Justpassedu

iTrader: (118)

Vision is more of a street racer he doesnt jump lol