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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

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HPI Vorza Flux 1/8 E-Buggy Thread

Old 04-08-2010, 10:44 AM
  #1606  
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Originally Posted by armourbl View Post
I put some duct tape on the inside of my SC10 rear wheels, and it did help prevent ballooning.

I never had ballooning issues with the stock Vorza wheels and tire on 6S, but I was also running the stock diff setups then too. Haven't tried them after changing my diff fluids.

ben
I'm going to try it next set. Cant hurt right?
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Old 04-09-2010, 04:59 AM
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Does anyone know the EXACT dimensions of the battery box when its fully extended? I have a bunch of 6s lipo's, but if none of them fit i'm not gonna get it.

Also has anyone put the 2650kv motor in there and run on 6s? That's what I plan to do for maximum speed, although I wont drive full throttle a lot.

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gdavis17 View Post
Does anyone know the EXACT dimensions of the battery box when its fully extended? I have a bunch of 6s lipo's, but if none of them fit i'm not gonna get it.

Also has anyone put the 2650kv motor in there and run on 6s? That's what I plan to do for maximum speed, although I wont drive full throttle a lot.

Thanks
I don't have the dimensions for you, sorry. But I can tell you I haven't had any issue fitting any of the batteries I have in it. Sometimes I lay them flat stacked on each other, and sometimes I stand them up side by side. There is a small piece in each tray that can be removed to give a bit more room, or adjusted to tighten things up laterally. You can also remove the rubber bottom for some added room.

I would recommend to give the 2200 motor a try before you do anything else. On 6S it is very insanely fast. Castle doesn't recommend using the 2650 on 6S also. With the added torque of the 2200, you can gear up for top speed runs. Just watch the motor and esc temps until you have consitant results. Mine gets warmer on 6S than 4S without any other changes, but still well within tolerances.

Also, on 6S you will likely find that keeping the tires attached to the wheels will become a challenge. So keep that in mind too.

ben
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by gdavis17 View Post
Does anyone know the EXACT dimensions of the battery box when its fully extended? I have a bunch of 6s lipo's, but if none of them fit i'm not gonna get it.

Also has anyone put the 2650kv motor in there and run on 6s? That's what I plan to do for maximum speed, although I wont drive full throttle a lot.

Thanks

The answer is in the Vorza manual. http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...420/103420.pdf Sorry I don't have the time to look it up right now. But the manual does show the size of the battery compartment.

Hope that helps.
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gdavis17 View Post
Does anyone know the EXACT dimensions of the battery box when its fully extended? I have a bunch of 6s lipo's, but if none of them fit i'm not gonna get it.

Also has anyone put the 2650kv motor in there and run on 6s? That's what I plan to do for maximum speed, although I wont drive full throttle a lot.

Thanks
I just got 2 of these 6s

http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-5000mah-6s1p-222-30c.html

And it barely barely fits.
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Old 04-09-2010, 02:27 PM
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I've got about 5 Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 40C Lipo Packs

So if they don't fit I won;t be buying one,

according to the dimensions in the manual the lipos are 1mm too wide

Last edited by gdavis17; 04-09-2010 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by gdavis17 View Post
I've got about 5 Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 40C Lipo Packs

So if they don't fit I won;t be buying one,

according to the dimensions in the manual the lipos are 1mm too wide
Im running with Turnigy 6S 5000mah 30C, and it fits.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:01 AM
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Hey guys, now that some of you have had a chance to race your vorza's could a few people post what oils and springs they are using? What is working for you on the track?

Thanks very much
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Old 04-11-2010, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by danulmer18 View Post
Hey guys, now that some of you have had a chance to race your vorza's could a few people post what oils and springs they are using? What is working for you on the track?

Thanks very much
Im wondering the same.

Also, Toe out/in, camber etc..

Ran my vorza on the local track yesterday. I thought it worked pretty well but the pro's complained about it being a bit bumpy and front heavy on the jumps.

Edit:

Just found this screw kit: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...teel-Screw-Kit
Might be something worth buying?

Last edited by Limpan; 04-11-2010 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 04-11-2010, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Limpan View Post
Im wondering the same.


Just found this screw kit: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...teel-Screw-Kit
Might be something worth buying?
I'm going to try it.
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Old 04-11-2010, 02:45 PM
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This weekend my local hobby shop VRP Raceways had an oval race going on so my son and I entered. We ran in the Open Electric Class.

First race, I came in second
Second race, I came in first
Third race, I came in third

A Main------- I won.....

Totally stock except for a 17t pinion gear running on 4s lipos....

I have pics but I am too new to post them....
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Old 04-11-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by VanillaTony
I'm going to try it.
Let us know what you think later

Originally Posted by skdd.morse View Post
This weekend my local hobby shop VRP Raceways had an oval race going on so my son and I entered. We ran in the Open Electric Class.

First race, I came in second
Second race, I came in first
Third race, I came in third

A Main------- I won.....

Totally stock except for a 17t pinion gear running on 4s lipos....

I have pics but I am too new to post them....
Stock setup too?
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:08 PM
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Stock setup too?
Yes sir... stock shocks and diff fluid... Spektrum remote and Hitech servo...

Man it ran great....
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:31 AM
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Has anybody cracked their engine mount at the base? The join linked to the right rear thread hole on mine has cracked clean across. Doesn't seem to affect alignment so far.

Also, one of my lower rear hub pins slipped out past the screw that's there to hold it in place. I am not a fan of e-clips but what's with this design? I ended up losing a rear dogbone because of it ...Speaking of which, I'm going to switch to Universals now. Any recommendations on this? Thinking of doing it for all drive shafts.

Lastly, can anybody tell me why they leave a hole in the chassis for spur gear clearance? Is this to lower CG as much as possible? I've heard of people using a section of polycarbonate or similar to guard it, has anybody done a mod for this on a car with an exposed spur? I'd like to avoid having the spur throw debris inside the car as it is currently doing.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by wrexxy View Post
Has anybody cracked their engine mount at the base? The join linked to the right rear thread hole on mine has cracked clean across. Doesn't seem to affect alignment so far.

Also, one of my lower rear hub pins slipped out past the screw that's there to hold it in place. I am not a fan of e-clips but what's with this design? I ended up losing a rear dogbone because of it ...Speaking of which, I'm going to switch to Universals now. Any recommendations on this? Thinking of doing it for all drive shafts.

Lastly, can anybody tell me why they leave a hole in the chassis for spur gear clearance? Is this to lower CG as much as possible? I've heard of people using a section of polycarbonate or similar to guard it, has anybody done a mod for this on a car with an exposed spur? I'd like to avoid having the spur throw debris inside the car as it is currently doing.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

They do it for two reasons:

1. To keep the c.o.g as low as possible.
2. To keep rocks and debris from wedging itself between the spur gear and the chassis.
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