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Old 10-27-2009, 06:41 AM
  #91  
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Ayone with a slash and the Tekin RS offroad med-high traction? I am running it in open core with a 13.5 I keep lowering the neutral setting down to 32 now on #3 profile, is that the best way to add punch without spinning the tires?

Last edited by arnie84; 10-27-2009 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:51 AM
  #92  
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Just bought an RS Pro/13.5 Redline combo and hope to get it soon. Wow this thing costs more than my Blitz.

Anyways, any recommended setups for this motor on a SCT platform?

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:50 AM
  #93  
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I just got a RS and paired it with my LRP Vector 13.5 (which I already had). My "Vegas 200" software (and the previous 198) doesn't seem to be doing much. In the "sensored" mode, there's no punch at all in the motor. Plus a bit of stuttering. I have the "current limiter" turned off. I don't know of any other settings that might impede the punch.

In "dual mode" with a sensor wire attached, it works pretty much fine, but then I don't have the "sensor mode" settings to adjust boost and turbo. In "dual mode" without a sensor wire, it's useless as it just doesn't respond at all (although I guess this might make sense since I'm using a sensored motor).

Any suggestions other than the obvious "buy a Tekin 13.5 motor"?

Thanks!
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:04 AM
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Dr Kenny
What boost and turbo settings are you using? Most people I have talked to that have complained about a lack of punch in off road with the Tekin are using a lot of timing. I have found personally that less is better in off road though all my testing has been done with a 17.5 which has a fair bit less torque than a 13.5 The one LRP motor I have had was pretty soft on the bottom end though so again overtiming may be your issue.
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:19 AM
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In "sensored" mode, I started testing with zero boost and turbo to get a base setting. Punch was very soft. Changing to "dual mode" gives enough punch to pull a wheelie from a standing start. I don't think it's the motor. There's definitely something happening when changing from dual mode to sensored mode.
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:54 AM
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Is your sensor working? Tried spinning the wheels with the controller turned on do you get the last 3 led's turning on dimly? Sensor problem is the only thing I can think of others may have some more suggestions.
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Old 10-30-2009, 12:40 PM
  #97  
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Dr K
you may have a bad sensor wire. with a 13.5 you only want to run in sensored mode. dual mode is for 8.5 turns and lower. do as marman suggested and with the system on rotate the rear wheels by hand an see if the last 3 leds are flickering on the speedo. 0 boost and turbo wont do much for you. what car are you running? you also may want to try another motor, preferably a 13.5 to see. it might be the motor. you shouldnt run the motor in dual mode only sensored. let us know if that works
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:29 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'm running a RS esc with a LRP X-11 13.5 motor in a T4 for off-road use on a pretty big track.

I turned on the radio, plugged in the car battery and turned on the esc. One LED light in the middle is constantly on as the neutral setting. I manually turned the back wheels in all directions, but the 1 LED stayed on - no changing to the 3 dimly lit lights. I did hear the motor making a high-pitched wine as I turned the wheels (which turned the motor) as opposed to strictly the sound of the gears turning when there was no power to the esc/motor.

I'm guessing your reply might be that the sensor wire is faulty. However, it is literally a brand new wire. And it is fully connected to the ESC and motor. Also, in dual-mode with sensor wire, the motor works pretty well. Without the wire, the motor is useless. So, the wire must be working or otherwise at least doing something.

Could it be possible that it's just not talking correctly with the LRP motor? I thought that sensored motors should all be the same, but maybe having two manufacturers is some issue.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:58 PM
  #99  
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No, the motor will work with the RS. The last 3 led's should cycle on and off and are A LOT dimmer than the standard led.

What software are you using? What radio?

A standard 13.5 setup should be 20 on the motor, 15 on timing boost with some turbo and should have a ton more power than the dual mode setup.

You've got to have a setting off...
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:18 PM
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Hey Randy used Tony Phalen setup that you suggested for sc10 rs 17.5 offroad dirt have 50 ft straight with lots 180 turns, used setup 12 timing on motor 25 timing boost and sensored mode, curent limter off and throttle profile at 5 with 198 software, with 75/27 which I was running with lrp speed and tekin 17.5 motor with 12* timing and motor came in at 180 not much punch not till end of straight, went to 75/25, kept rs speed same 12 timing 25 timing boost sensored mode 198 version , sc10 did have more speed and seem to be better more low end, temp on motor was 150 can I get more out of speed control, more boost or will turbo help, and up or down on pinion, throttle profile at 5, will it give it more punch, have plenty of tractio
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:27 PM
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AAAHHHH is that rc god speaking can you hear him...hes telling you that tekin is the king of all motors and esc's. God aka randy will get you going in the right direction... thats why we buy tekin!!!!!

randy are you sure you cant squeez away long enough to come to utah state champs. i promise i will find you an outlet to plug in your laptop and maybe jeff will give you the access code to his wireless. should be fun with jim and staff coming...by the way vegas rocks baby.
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:41 PM
  #102  
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Randy: I know you have probably answered this a thousand times but here goes. Is there any difference between 15 degrees timing on the motor + 15 degrees of timing boost as opposed to 0 degrees on the motor + 30 degrees of timing boost?
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:49 PM
  #103  
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Jdog, you just might see me at the Utah race. I was asked if I'd be interested in going which of course I replied "Hell freak'n yes!"

I love Ir-Cr and the track. Home of the famous moon dirt! If I can get out of one personal issue I'm golden and it's looking good right now.

So I'll be mounting up some Clay Switch's and it'll be on. Yes I'll bring my laptop. The wireless will strictly be a bonus!


Kcobra: yes it's different. Motor timing is ALL the time. Timing boost begins with the first few feet of car travel. Since this happens regularly in offroad in switch backs etc. we go in and out of timing boost.

A no motor timing setup can work good in offroad. It will give a bit more bottom end for a few feet and then come on pretty strong.

A half and half setup is what I run most of the time as I like the snap that a touch of motor timing gives me. I can gear down just a bit for this, maybe a tooth compared to the no motor timing setup.


On the SC setups: take the motor timing out, this will increase bottom end just a bit. Also stay out of TP 5 as this can overheat the motor prematurely in offroad. How's the speed of the car? Your temps are inline at 150 so I guess I'd ask if you feel your gearing is right? Does it top out on the straight or does it pull the whole way to the end?
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Old 10-31-2009, 04:17 PM
  #104  
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Randy. Hb pink beams or proline suburbs. bk are stil just ok let me know for sure if ur comin
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:48 PM
  #105  
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Guys, I'm in a real jam here. I need the lateest version, or at least one with the turbo delay function sent to me. I went and downloaded the one from the tekin site, and now it won't let me choose anything higher than 189. I also tried the version that the guy from tq cells has, that didn't work either. LOL, and before anyone asks, I uninstalled and re-installed the software.
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