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Old 01-24-2004, 07:21 AM   #1
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Arrow RPM valved shock pistons

Has anyone had a chance to evaluate the RPM valved shock pistons? I did a search and came up with all nitro stuff. I was wondering what you all thought of them, if you used them.

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Old 01-24-2004, 08:13 AM   #2
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What are you using them in? Personally the stock pistons are more than good to use in any vehicle. On most setups if your racing they use the stock pistons, and you may be off with your setup if you use a different brand of pistons, but its all preferance and up to u.
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Old 01-30-2004, 03:57 PM   #3
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Nobody has actually tried these out?
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:08 AM   #4
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They did an artical in an RC car action magazine. don't know which year or month though.
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Old 01-31-2004, 12:20 PM   #5
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I'm assuming you are talking about the 2 piece bypass piston. I just tried them the other day on my XXX-4. They worked pretty good. I tried the lighter dampening versions and really should have used the heavier ones, but my lhs was out. Seems like a sound idea. I can tell they do what they are supposed to. The rebound rate is much faster than the dampened up stroke. And thats without the spring attached.

I'm going to try the heavier versions and I'll let ya know how they work.

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Old 02-01-2004, 11:19 PM   #6
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I put a set in my 1/10 electric dirt oval truck and saw an immediate improvement-much easier to move up or down in mid corner and overall better control and response.This is on a hard packed dirt-no clay,no blue groove-scaly surface that's a little rough-small ripply bumps.I have spent a lot more to get a lot less with other products.
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:09 AM   #7
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I am thinking that in theory, it would allow the use of a lighter spring because the damping on reboud would be lighter. I was hoping to find a solution to our track that is now frozen solid (indoor), that would allow me to run a little heavier oil, but maintain good damping over the rutty stuff and keep the buggy from bottoming out as hard on the big jumps. The idea was to go heavier on the oil and bigger on the valve hole.

I was attempting to use them in my Yok, but the id is just a smidge too small, and they won't fit. I do have some hard anodized shocks on my RPM Stealth converted RC10 that have been recently rebuilt that I will try to transplant.
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:28 AM   #8
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I had to turn them down about .005" to get them in my shocks(Traxxas big bores).I just put the piston on an M3 screw with a locknut and chucked it in my drill and turned them down with a sharp chisel-a file works fine too.It worked out well because I got a better fit than the stock pistons.I also took a little off of the bottom of the piston to get more gap on the downstroke.Watch that they don't hang up on the top e-clip.I put Asssociated clips on the top and had no problems but the clip might need to be filed down a little on the O.D.It really didn't take that long and was well worth the effort.
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:39 PM   #9
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I run the duel stage pistons in the front of my Pede. They work will for that.
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:04 PM   #10
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I run the duel stage pistons in the front of my Pede. They work will for that.
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:55 PM   #11
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I run them in my xxx I'm useing the med/heavy stock oil wieght much better handling
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Old 02-05-2004, 05:54 AM   #12
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I've used these thing for years.....

First off.... They are designed oversize, so they can be hand fit to a variety of shock bodies. No problem there, just be aware of it before buying. Of course you need to have good attention to detail to sand them to the same size.... Very important.

They only work well in certain situations. If the track is smooth, high bite, I don't like them. Even with low bite, if the track is freshly groomed, and not very bumpy, I stay away.

When they really seem to shine is bumpy, rutty tracks. The faster rebound lets the wheels drop down between bumps to keep some contact with the surface. On tracks that have deteriorated a bit they work quite well. Some tracks that develop nasty bumps and ripples in the braking and acceleration zones are where you really want to try these. If you race at a track that runs 1/8 scale as well as 1/10, and the track goes to hell as the day progresses, these may very well save you at the end of the day.

Since I only really use them when traction is low, I've only really used the light ones. If you speak Associated ...... I offer this:
The blue pistons are a little less pack than #2's, the whites are a little less pack than #1's.
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Old 02-06-2004, 03:47 PM   #13
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This is the kind of info I knew was out there. Thanks.

I was thinking of a valve that opened wider but had a much faster closure would be cool to try out. I am devising ways to test these theories out. I am thinking that the amount of time that it takes the valve to open and close causes a dead spot on the smoother tracks.

Thing is that I will never really have to worry about our track getting too smooth. After a full nights racing, the mains come along and all the trucks have been on the track and dug whoops in the corners and halfway down the straight. I think my car/truck are good candidates for this treatment. (I also speak associated).
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