Lipo Heat during a race
08-10-2009, 02:25 PM
#1
Lipo Heat during a race
I am running a B44, LRP TC Spec w 6.5L motor, MaxAmps 5000 saddle pack.
Today racing I was watching the motor heat, because it was very hot and humid out. Race 1 about 171, Race 2 about 166, Race 3 about 162 all 5 minute races and in the Main which is 7 minute race I knew heat could be a factor.
The problems haddened about 3 laps from the end of the race, going down the backstretch I did NOT have the punch. Thinking it was motor heat isses I thought I was okay and it would thermo out.
After the race I notices the lipo had swelled a bit, and taking the temperature it was about 122, so yes thee was heat in the lipo.
Question 1, Does gearing play into heat transfer to lipo's? Previosly I was running 17/84 but yesterday for first time I was 18/84
Question 2, At what point should the Lipo cutoff have come on if the pack was going dead?
Thanks
Today racing I was watching the motor heat, because it was very hot and humid out. Race 1 about 171, Race 2 about 166, Race 3 about 162 all 5 minute races and in the Main which is 7 minute race I knew heat could be a factor.
The problems haddened about 3 laps from the end of the race, going down the backstretch I did NOT have the punch. Thinking it was motor heat isses I thought I was okay and it would thermo out.
After the race I notices the lipo had swelled a bit, and taking the temperature it was about 122, so yes thee was heat in the lipo.
Question 1, Does gearing play into heat transfer to lipo's? Previosly I was running 17/84 but yesterday for first time I was 18/84
Question 2, At what point should the Lipo cutoff have come on if the pack was going dead?
Thanks
08-10-2009, 02:42 PM
#2
Be careful running the LRP esc. It will NOT shut off if the motor gets too hot. It doesn't monitor the motor temp. It will keep going until the motor burns up. The esc will only thermal if the unit itself gets too hot, not the motor.
08-10-2009, 07:13 PM
#5
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If the pack swelled, it's trash.
For a good LiPo saddle I run the Thunder Power 5400 40C saddle. You can also check out the Fantom Racing 5400 40C saddle. They are the same exact packs. I think Thunder Power is the OEM supplier for the Fantom saddle packs.
For a good LiPo saddle I run the Thunder Power 5400 40C saddle. You can also check out the Fantom Racing 5400 40C saddle. They are the same exact packs. I think Thunder Power is the OEM supplier for the Fantom saddle packs.
08-10-2009, 07:21 PM
#6
08-10-2009, 07:47 PM
#7
I am running a B44, LRP TC Spec w 6.5L motor, MaxAmps 5000 saddle pack.
Today racing I was watching the motor heat, because it was very hot and humid out. Race 1 about 171, Race 2 about 166, Race 3 about 162 all 5 minute races and in the Main which is 7 minute race I knew heat could be a factor.
The problems haddened about 3 laps from the end of the race, going down the backstretch I did NOT have the punch. Thinking it was motor heat isses I thought I was okay and it would thermo out.
After the race I notices the lipo had swelled a bit, and taking the temperature it was about 122, so yes thee was heat in the lipo.
Question 1, Does gearing play into heat transfer to lipo's? Previosly I was running 17/84 but yesterday for first time I was 18/84
Question 2, At what point should the Lipo cutoff have come on if the pack was going dead?
Thanks
Today racing I was watching the motor heat, because it was very hot and humid out. Race 1 about 171, Race 2 about 166, Race 3 about 162 all 5 minute races and in the Main which is 7 minute race I knew heat could be a factor.
The problems haddened about 3 laps from the end of the race, going down the backstretch I did NOT have the punch. Thinking it was motor heat isses I thought I was okay and it would thermo out.
After the race I notices the lipo had swelled a bit, and taking the temperature it was about 122, so yes thee was heat in the lipo.
Question 1, Does gearing play into heat transfer to lipo's? Previosly I was running 17/84 but yesterday for first time I was 18/84
Question 2, At what point should the Lipo cutoff have come on if the pack was going dead?
Thanks
I bolded the problem...
08-10-2009, 08:35 PM
#8
Thanks everyine.. looks to be the poor quality pack is the reason it swelled more than anything. 
My new pack will either be the Reedy or Fantom pack (I just saw this pack at LHS and I was thinking about it, well looks like instead of thinking it is doing now lol)
My new pack will either be the Reedy or Fantom pack (I just saw this pack at LHS and I was thinking about it, well looks like instead of thinking it is doing now lol)
08-11-2009, 07:12 AM
#9
Best regards,
Jason
Last edited by JAM MaxAmps; 08-11-2009 at 07:47 AM.
08-11-2009, 03:52 PM
#10
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I'm running 18/84 with a Tekin Redline 5.5 motor. My motor temps are about 145* after 6 mins racing. Here's something I thought of, do you have the body properly ventilated? Check this out.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5930541-post3239.html
There's some pics of the vents in the body and the electronics layout. Hope this helps.
Hey JAM MaxAmps,
Don't take this personally, but this could have been an opportunity to extend a little customer service in some form. Instead you are showing a case of sour grapes. I'm not saying you do not have the right to be upset about ppl trashing your product, but ya could kill the nay sayers with kindness. Possibly offer the thread starter a little help in his quest for a replacement LiPo pack. Your call.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5930541-post3239.html
There's some pics of the vents in the body and the electronics layout. Hope this helps.
Hey JAM MaxAmps,
Don't take this personally, but this could have been an opportunity to extend a little customer service in some form. Instead you are showing a case of sour grapes. I'm not saying you do not have the right to be upset about ppl trashing your product, but ya could kill the nay sayers with kindness. Possibly offer the thread starter a little help in his quest for a replacement LiPo pack. Your call.
08-11-2009, 06:45 PM
#11
I'm running 18/84 with a Tekin Redline 5.5 motor. My motor temps are about 145* after 6 mins racing. Here's something I thought of, do you have the body properly ventilated? Check this out.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5930541-post3239.html
There's some pics of the vents in the body and the electronics layout. Hope this helps.
Hey JAM MaxAmps,
Don't take this personally, but this could have been an opportunity to extend a little customer service in some form. Instead you are showing a case of sour grapes. I'm not saying you do not have the right to be upset about ppl trashing your product, but ya could kill the nay sayers with kindness. Possibly offer the thread starter a little help in his quest for a replacement LiPo pack. Your call.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5930541-post3239.html
There's some pics of the vents in the body and the electronics layout. Hope this helps.
Hey JAM MaxAmps,
Don't take this personally, but this could have been an opportunity to extend a little customer service in some form. Instead you are showing a case of sour grapes. I'm not saying you do not have the right to be upset about ppl trashing your product, but ya could kill the nay sayers with kindness. Possibly offer the thread starter a little help in his quest for a replacement LiPo pack. Your call.
Thanks for the pics of the vents, I will add a few more. I guess we can never have enough lol
08-11-2009, 07:45 PM
#12
Problems with setup? I thought a 6.5 or even a 5.5 running in the 160s, or darn close to it, was pretty common for a 4 wheeler?
Please elaborate, my 'Team Driver'
keeps bugging me for a wheeler, I'm eventually going to have to give in.
Please elaborate, my 'Team Driver'
keeps bugging me for a wheeler, I'm eventually going to have to give in.
08-11-2009, 07:47 PM
#13
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To give you an idea how the vents and ESC placement affects temp here's some numbers.
Before opening the "gills" behind the side window, the small oval vents in the rear and removing the "flaps" at the front under the steering links. My motor was running 160* and the ESC was lighting up 6to7 out of 7 LEDs for the temperature. After the body mods, the motor runs between 145*-150* and the ESC only lights up 4 LEDs for temperature. Also note in the pics how the motor tabs are facing the side, not the top. This helped improve airflow thru the vent on the motor side. The wires going to the motor were blocking the vent when I had the tabs facing up. My pack never goes but a few degrees above ambient temperature.
08-11-2009, 08:02 PM
#14
Check your gearing. If you came off the track with a pack at 122 degrees (And yes air temp adds to the pack temp) chances are it was a lot hotter than that before you got to it. That tells me your over amping the pack. That's what causes the heat and if they get to hot they do swell and will puff. I find it funny how everyone is so quick to blame the pack and not look at anything else they have done. But it appears you have made up your mind based on the ramblings of some that clearly just have it in for us. Go ahead and try another brand and keep running the same set-up I bet you get the same results. But hey then you can go around and call them all poor quality packs as well. One other quick note stressing an older pack like that is also going to cause problems.
Best regards,
Jason
Best regards,
Jason
you still lost alot of customers buy selling junk packs at a premium price.
08-11-2009, 08:34 PM
#15
