sLaSh It UPP

iTrader: (1)

woa.

sokar

That looks like a damn good deal, but that's about $350 for brushless with no lipo. But then again, its a 1/10 scale truck, which means it can be raced at the local track against slashes. How much could I get for the motor the car comes with? Will I get enough to at least come close to paying for a lipo setup?

Tomeygun

iTrader: (1)

regarding running all day on batteries:

I have batterys that I can charge at 4-5c, so I can recharge in 15-20 minutes with the 20amp capable charger... (A123)

So 3 batteries usually keep me running all day, I do allow time to cool the motor as well...

The newer hyperion Lipos can be charged quite fast I heard, more than 1c:
http://www.rcheliresource.com/breaki...on-3-vx-lipos/

jpoprock

If you want to go Traxxas (IMO they make the best all around veh's for any skill level), then I would strongly suggest getting a VXL Stampede. Why? Because even though it's similar to a Rustler, it is much more flexable in terms of "set up". You can make a Pede more like a Rustler by modding your shocks, or putting GTR shocks on it (the best of the two methods) to lower it, and you can put Maxx sized shocks on it to raise it (but sometimes the front can get weird as the shocks from a Maxx Truck are too tall for the front without modding them). You can also put any kind of 12mm 2.2 or 2.8 tires (traxxas tires only unless you want to do some modding) on the Pede (same as the Rustler), which means you can lower it and make it a street pede with street tires, or leave it raised, put some off road tires on it, and jump like crazy! FYI, the stock Pede tires are "ok", but something you'll probl want to replace eventually). The higher it sits, the more it tends to flip over though. The Rustler can't really be "raised" all that much, but can be lowered a bit. As a result, the Rustler has a lower center of gravity, so it handles like it's on rails! BUT, despite being able to jump with it, it's no where near the jumper that a Pede is. The Pede is a much better "basher", where the Rustler is much better on dirt and flatter terrain.

I'm not bashing the Rustler, because I have both, and I love both equally. But just because they are basically the same platform, doesn't make them at all the same type of vehicle.

I wouldn't even consider a "non-brushless" truck. You gotta go brushless (BL) for sure. With a Lipo, they are just GREAT! But even with a NiMH battery, they are pretty darn quick too. If you want to fit a longer 7 cell flat pack or Lipo in the stock Rustler or Pede, you've got to dremel out the rear stop under the ESC plate. The plastic is very hard, and it too me forever. Mostly because you don't have a very good angle to get at it. But I managed. Otherwise, a hump pack will work with no mods generally.

Both trucks are pretty durable out of the box. My Pede was like a squirell gone mad! The Rusty too. Both trucks can benefit from hop ups, and FLM and racersedgemachine.com have the best ones. addicted2RC.com sells both brands.

And btw... the Pede out performs the HPI Wheelie King, no matter what you hear. The Wheelie King pop's wheelies like crazy, but doesn't handle as well as the Pede.

So, my vote is to get a PedeVXL.

That being said, the 1/16 ERevoVXL is a demon. I want one BAD.

Oh, and a lotta guys here are suggesting the new 1/16 VXL Slash or maybe one of the other 1/10 CORR Style trucks. Those are great trucks, no doubt. But those are really meant for the track, not bashing. I think you would LIKE ONE, sure, but I don't think it's going to be exactly what you're looking for based on what you've said you want to do with it. Get a VXL Pede or the ERevoVXL and you'll be thrilled. (or even a used E-Revo too). *** and please guys, don't flame me telling me how your SC10 or Slash can do it all. I'm sure it's very capable at doing all kinds of things. But the fact remains, it's really not the same kind of "basher" as a monster truck is, and is really built for the track.

I'm big on Revo's, and have three of them. One 2.5R, one 3.3 Platinumish one, and a superbad bullet proof ERevo Brushless (ERBE). Once you go to a Revo, you'll never look back! They really don't need any hopups like the E/T Maxx trucks do, which is why you don't see a lot of hopups for the Revo. Not to say you can't hop them up though. Mostly swapping out the buckles to alum, and hingepins to Ti, and maybe experimenting with diff shocks is all you really need to do. The ERevo (non brushless), is pretty decent, and can be converted to Brushless later if you wanted. Same exact platform as the Nitro and ERBE basically. But you can't run the ERevo with Lipo's I don't think. I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure that the ESC doesn't have a built in Low Voltage Cut off like the VXL's do. And I'm not sure that the Titan's can handle it. I just can't remember to be honest. I do know that making an Emaxx or an ERevo brushless is much more of an expense than some, because if you want to go all out, you need a single motor plate, a new ESC and motor, BL ready tranny, steel CVD's, and shimmed differentials, and really.... you'll want a better radio too. So it's a lot of dough. That's why I haven't converted my UE-Maxx over to BL just yet. But plan to.

If I were you, I'd join the Traxxas forum. If yer planning on going Traxxas, they are an invaluable resource. And there are always TONS of dudes selling stuff cheap there. It's a buyers market for RC cars right now. No one is buying unless you're giving it away, and that's a real shame. So keep that in mind. I'd rather buy a used, hopped up veh and pay a little more, than to buy one new and hop it up myself. Because later if you want something different, you will lose so much money on it, that you won't want to even sell it. That's the reason I have about 9 trucks when I really only want 4 or 5 tops!

Good luck!

jpoprock

BTW... SICK Rusty JATODriver!!! My Pede looks like that for the most part. It's all FLM and REM parts.. but not nearly as "shiney"!

jpoprock

What is it you have to sell? You are going to be stunned at how rotten the market is right now for sellers.

jpoprock

Also... what headaches are you having with Nitro? I've found that most "headaches" are due to one's inability to tune. It takes a lotta time, reading, trial and error, and patience to learn to tune. But once you get a good feel for it, you shouldn't have a problem at all. I've only been running Nitro for a couple years, and that first year was pure misery and frustration. I vowed to sell all my Nitro stuff, and never ever look back. But stuck it out, getting tons of advice in the Traxxas forum, reading, etc, and come to find out... there was ALWAYS a reason why I was having problems... and usually it was MY fault.

The biggest lessons I've learned with Nitro:

1. When in doubt, go back to the factory settings and start over.
2. If the Factory settings aren't working, then it can be a number of things, but generally it's:
a. Bad glow plug
b. Bad clutch shoes
c. AIR LEAKS (learn how to check for them... and btw, I've never sealed a motor).
3. Learn to read your glow plug. There are tons of resources out there.
4. Find a "troubleshooting Flow Chart". I have one if you need it.
5. Buy a temp gun, but learn to tune by ear and feel too.
6. Make sure all your bolts are tight around the cooling head and motor mount.
7. Check the bearings in your motor block/crankcase. If they are bad, tuning will be difficult.
8. Ask lots of questions!

In general, air leaks are usually the biggest problem. They tend to occur mostly at the gas tank lid. If the seal is old, replace it. If not, tighten it. And after you refuel, get in the habit of pushing down on it after closing it. Carbs can leak air too, particularly at the boot. Learn how to check for air leaks. It's really simple and can save a lot of headaches. You can't tell when the car is running, as it's not something you'll generally hear.

If you keep blowing glow plugs, then you need to learn to read your plug to see what's going on. If the coil is broken, the most obvious thing to assume is that something inside the motor is slammming into it like an asteroid. Pull the engine, take it apart, and clean and inspect it. I used to take handling motor parts with a grain of salt, and learned my lesson. You absolutely cannot set stuff down on a dirty work bench, drop it on the floor or carpet, or leave your motor sitting around without a glow plug in it. Get some denatured alcohol at the hardware store (found in the paint thinner section usually), as it's the best cleaner. If you drop a part, or before you put it in the motor, blast it all with canned air just in case. Even if a small hair gets in your motor, it's going to end up flying around inside at crazy velocity. Sometimes your connecting rod can throw little chunks of debris if it's getting old, so pull your cooling head off, and see if there is anything at all gathered around the top of your piston sleeve. If so, you need to take it apart and clean it really good.

I've had the most headaches with debris in the engine due to my not handling with as much care as I should have, simple air leaks, and bad crankcase bearings. You'd be surprised how much a bad bearing will wreck your tuning ability. I take the motor off the truck, hold it in my hands, and with the cooling head ON, I check the pinch. When the crankshaft reaches that little "divot point" in it's rotation, check to make sure it doesn't have too much "play", and also take hold of the flywheel and try to move it up and down. If there is any play in it, chances are the inner or outer bearing is bad. You can replace them yourself, but for $20 on ebay, It's easier to just buy a new crankcase with bearings. Otherwise, you have to buy new bearings, which are sorta expensive, then bake your crankcase in the oven to heat it up, then the bearings will fall right out. Then to put the new bearings in, you have to bake it again to get it hot, and put them back in as fast as you can after taking it out of the oven. The cooler it gets, the harder it is to get them in. And getting the inside bearing totally flush where it should be is the key. If you wait too long messing with it, the case cools and you have to bake it again. $20 on eBay gets my vote at that point!

Just knowing how rotten the market is to sell stuff right now, I figured I'd ask what the problem was, and why the frustration. Because I hate to see you lose money.

BTW... please pardon me if I have somehow insulted your intelligence or experience level. There is no way for me to have known. So this is just a blanket post, assuming the worst!

Good luck!

J

sokar

Jeez, thank for taking the time to write so much! I'm hoping to sell my OFNA Hyper 8 with upgraded big bore shocks, dish wheels, full Hyper 8.5 upgrade kit (including chassis), and an upgraded Hitec super torque metal gear steering servo. But, the engine is shot (or at least I think it is). We'll have to see. If I get around $300 I'll be happy. Nitro has just been a pain in the ass for me. First, getting the engine started. Sometimes it doesn't want to start. Sometimes the starting mechanism fails, etc. When it is started, tuning is a bitch and I'm always worrying about the engine overheating. Then you gotta worry about it running out of fuel or stalling while its far away, so you gotta run out and get it and run back.

Nitros are just too unreliable and expensive. I wish my nitro could behave as well as my friend's Jato (which has never had a problem starting, running, tuning, etc. and he's a complete noob). In the two nitros I have owned in the past (T Maxx Pro .15, OFNA Hyper 8) they have given me nothing but problems. I literally cannot get through the day without something breaking, whether it be the pull start cord randomly snapping (despite being treated well), the starter motor burning out, the engine seizing up, the spur gear stripping, etc. SOMETHING always goes wrong. It never does for him though. I love the roar of the nitro as you gun the throttle and the crowds it attracts, but its just not worth it anymore. From what I hear, once you go brushless you never go back. If I can break even or stay within $60 when buying a new car, I'll be happy. No more tuning problems, no more break in, no more oiling, no more cleaning, no more smell, no more mess, and most importantly no more constant breaking.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

With that price range, 1/8 scale will be out of reach. You can't go wrong with the Slash. If you want better handling, then go with a AE T4, B4 or Losi XXX-T.

JATOdriver

iTrader: (23)

+1

ae rat

i get something to bash with but maybe down the road you might want to race get a slash.

RC-Crazy

iTrader: (55)

+1 on Slash, you won't go wrong w/ it..... I got TWO!

sokar

I'm kinda down to Slash, e-revo, or rusty. The Rusty is fast as heck, and I love doing high speed passes. The slash is durable, fast, and I can still drift a bit on the dirt or concrete with it. But, the e-revo gets much higher ratings than the slash because it goes the same speed but handles much better off road. Exactly how much faster would the rusty go compared to the trucks?