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Old 06-07-2010, 03:28 PM
  #5566  
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Originally Posted by SaladFork
The problem with the bumper setup is the little lip that hits against the chassis where the screws go in. It works as a fulcrum and when the bumper pushes up or forward pressure is applied to the lip causing the screws to rip out. The best thing would be to remove the stock bumper, take the new T-bone bumper and cut it to slip in between the chassis and diff case like the stock bumper does. The material is way tougher than the stock bumper and without the slip it should flex enough to not pull the screws out.

I ordered a couple of those early last week and the guys slower than Santa to ship, I am expecting them any day and I will toy around with one and the idea I posted above.
Saladfork, good point. In my opinion the upper mount will be the first thing to break. But as you mentioned the lower bumper can and does pull out from the chassis (the plastic piece is really thin). The original Jammin SCRT10 bumper design was just an extension of the CRT.5 bumper which only stuck out about 1/2" so it did not suffer from upper mount breakage or getting pulled out. Someone needs to come out with a better solution.
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:51 PM
  #5567  
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forget all this talk about the stock bumper...OFNA is not making another one...

go with the Associated SC10 bumper and call it a day. It takes 5 minutes and a reamer, or drill two holes...It holds up to over shoots, larn darts and t bones.
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:23 PM
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Is there a how-to on the associated bumper somewhere with some detailed pics?
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by HiVoltg12
Is there a how-to on the associated bumper somewhere with some detailed pics?
Take a bit and drill the existing Jammin Bumper location (where it fits on the shock tower) all the way thru. Now you can run a cap head screw all the way thru from the inside forward and thread into the AE Bumper Mount

You will need to Cut the AE Bumper mount (first pic) so you can spread the attachment locaters to meet the Jammin factory width.

Trim the skid portion (second pic as compared to oem bumper) of the AE Bumper so it can fit into the original slot between the Chassis and Diff Case. Ream new holes to match the OEM location and install screws.

I trimmed mine to allow clearance of the suspension so full droop could be maintained if necessary.

Of course this is a temporary solution until ___ ___ sends me his upgraded solution for the SCRT10.

If you prefer the bumper to extend further forward, just add appropriate spacer between the shock tower and trim the skid accorndingly.
Attached Thumbnails Jammin SCRT10 Thread-sc10-bumper-brace.jpg   Jammin SCRT10 Thread-sc10-skid-mod.jpg  
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:57 PM
  #5570  
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___ ______ has yet to start on the project......

But will after the rest of his projects are done. (Soon)
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:10 PM
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Im still thinking the HPI Blitz front bumper, mounts, and skid have good potential as well.
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
___ ______ has yet to start on the project......

But will after the rest of his projects are done. (Soon)
Crack That Whip....

Ive noticed from analyzing all the US Dept of Transportation Crash Data, that there is a higher correlation of front bumper failure when vehicle is running a 550
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JDCrow
Crack That Whip....

Ive noticed from analyzing all the US Dept of Transportation Crash Data, that there is a higher correlation of front bumper failure when vehicle is running a 550
Funny you mention the rate of failure.....

I have found that my likelyhood of finishing a race around said competition decreases everytime one is sold....

(Then they have the nuts to come ask me if I have bumper parts.....)

YGPM by the way....
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-racer
Here's a video of my Jammin. The track was pretty beat up so it didn't handle very well but on a prepped track its great. I highly suggest going to 2k in the rear as it makes the car alot more stable and going to the inner shock position on the front arms, it gives the front end more droop.

It was 110 degrees that day and the 4.5HV motor got up to 175 and the GTB Spectrum ESC got up to 150 with a 13t pinion. My Novak Ballistic 8.5 hit 200+ degrees in that heat with a 12t pinion.

Looks like your handling the truck very well. Most racers would try and clear the 5 pack ending up casing/tumble/roll, instead of making it a consistently fast double triple like your doing.
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:30 PM
  #5575  
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Some shots of the T-Bone bumper... Finally someone came out with something worthy looking. 3.5mm thick nylon, includes the top piece as well. I will work on the sandwich mod later tonight and see if I can get that to work.



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Old 06-07-2010, 07:05 PM
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[QUOTE=SaladFork;7511667]Some shots of the T-Bone bumper... Finally someone came out with something worthy looking. 3.5mm thick nylon, includes the top piece as well. I will work on the sandwich mod later tonight and see if I can get that to work.

mine just came in today, im going to mod it somehow its ugly but im sure it wont break!!!


What tires and compound is every one running at the indoor tracks wcrc/ocrc...
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:31 PM
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[QUOTE=bmsgangster;7511860]
Originally Posted by SaladFork
Some shots of the T-Bone bumper... Finally someone came out with something worthy looking. 3.5mm thick nylon, includes the top piece as well. I will work on the sandwich mod later tonight and see if I can get that to work.

mine just came in today, im going to mod it somehow its ugly but im sure it wont break!!!


What tires and compound is every one running at the indoor tracks wcrc/ocrc...
Super Soft AKA's

If you like to drive on velcro use the Wishbones. If you like the truck a little "free" then go with Enduro's.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:38 PM
  #5578  
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[QUOTE=Racecrafter;7512009]
Originally Posted by bmsgangster

Super Soft AKA's

If you like to drive on velcro use the Wishbones. If you like the truck a little "free" then go with Enduro's.
ok thanks, I also have a new set of caliber M3's will they work?
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:50 PM
  #5579  
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Originally Posted by JDCrow
Looks like your handling the truck very well. Most racers would try and clear the 5 pack ending up casing/tumble/roll, instead of making it a consistently fast double triple like your doing.
Thanks, I have never tried the 5-pack section because I dont want to break the car, and that the section was designed for 8th scale buggies to clear, but if the jump angle was fixed I bet I could clear it, just without any consistency.
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:23 PM
  #5580  
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Originally Posted by JDCrow

Ive noticed that there is a higher correlation of front bumper failure when vehicle is running a 550.
Wow, you're anti 550 agenda is getting old.

Face it, ROAR got it wrong. The 550 motors are becoming the class standard just as we told you they would.

But what do we know, we're just the peanut gallery and our opinions are not important are they?
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