Jammin SCRT10 Thread
02-07-2010, 01:12 PM
#1336
SS
02-07-2010, 01:43 PM
#1337
Well, in short, with the limited time I had to try all of the different things I wanted to the rear shock/tower mod works good.
It gave the truck a lot of down travel and allowed me to actually use the droop screws to be able to tune with them. They also did a better job of soaking up the large doubles and flat landings.
I ended up with 600 in front with #2 2 hole pistons and 500 in the rear with #2 2hole pistons. White springs all the way around.
I have previously tried taking the sway bar off and didn't really care for it. I tried it again just to try it with this set up and also didn't like it. The front dumps over too much allowing it to "3 wheel" and diff out in the rear making it difficult to stay consistent from corner to corner.
I'm also testing motors on 2s and have found a 550 size that was waaaaayyyy too much power.
But with a little speedo programming to tame the power, this motor makes the Novak HV look like a 17.5 
Details coming soon.
It gave the truck a lot of down travel and allowed me to actually use the droop screws to be able to tune with them. They also did a better job of soaking up the large doubles and flat landings.
I ended up with 600 in front with #2 2 hole pistons and 500 in the rear with #2 2hole pistons. White springs all the way around.
I have previously tried taking the sway bar off and didn't really care for it. I tried it again just to try it with this set up and also didn't like it. The front dumps over too much allowing it to "3 wheel" and diff out in the rear making it difficult to stay consistent from corner to corner.
I'm also testing motors on 2s and have found a 550 size that was waaaaayyyy too much power.
But with a little speedo programming to tame the power, this motor makes the Novak HV look like a 17.5 Details coming soon.
02-07-2010, 01:58 PM
#1338
Ok, made a post a few pages back that my hv 4.5 wouldn't be back in the truck until outdoor season. Weeeellllllll, that was forced to change last night.
The sleeve reducer for my pinions (3mm shaft) wouldn't allow the set screw
to fully clamp to the shaft and I ended up going to the hv to race last night. Tuned the esc down too #1 profile, 20 on punch control, dialed about 15% out of the end points and it was about the same speed as the 4x4 slashes(geared at 11 t). We're running on a 45'x65' dirt track indoors very chopped up and in need of a face lift. ( blown out would be closer) Truck was verygood early, but as things got rougher, I started having nose diving problems. The night ended in the semi when I tapped a tube and broke the steering tie rod. As I looked back, (before reading this thread last night) I felt the front droop was a big part of the nose diving thru the rockers and small jumps. Should of moved the front shocks to the bottom outside hole. I ordered about $100 in parts and didn't realize the #40834 wasn't available. Ended up making the piece out of some carbon fiber I had. The front seems pretty good on smoother surfaces but on the really blown out surfaces not so good. My sc 10 (with losi shocks) handled the same surface far better. I did turn the fastest lap of the night by 1.2 seconds. I can't wait to see this new front mod get figured out and available.... oh and the hv is stayin put!
The sleeve reducer for my pinions (3mm shaft) wouldn't allow the set screw
to fully clamp to the shaft and I ended up going to the hv to race last night. Tuned the esc down too #1 profile, 20 on punch control, dialed about 15% out of the end points and it was about the same speed as the 4x4 slashes(geared at 11 t). We're running on a 45'x65' dirt track indoors very chopped up and in need of a face lift. ( blown out would be closer) Truck was verygood early, but as things got rougher, I started having nose diving problems. The night ended in the semi when I tapped a tube and broke the steering tie rod. As I looked back, (before reading this thread last night) I felt the front droop was a big part of the nose diving thru the rockers and small jumps. Should of moved the front shocks to the bottom outside hole. I ordered about $100 in parts and didn't realize the #40834 wasn't available. Ended up making the piece out of some carbon fiber I had. The front seems pretty good on smoother surfaces but on the really blown out surfaces not so good. My sc 10 (with losi shocks) handled the same surface far better. I did turn the fastest lap of the night by 1.2 seconds. I can't wait to see this new front mod get figured out and available.... oh and the hv is stayin put!
02-07-2010, 02:10 PM
#1339
I am running a MMP/HV5.5 in mine. I have punch control at 30% currently (left over from the 6900kv I tried), custom LiPo cut-off, and custom power/brake curves. I have ran a few packs through it like this and haven't experienced any issues. Should I be looking to turn down the timing as you suggest? Sorry, just a little confused.
SS
SS
02-07-2010, 02:15 PM
#1341
Ok, made a post a few pages back that my hv 4.5 wouldn't be back in the truck until outdoor season. Weeeellllllll, that was forced to change last night.
The sleeve reducer for my pinions (3mm shaft) wouldn't allow the set screw
to fully clamp to the shaft and I ended up going to the hv to race last night. Tuned the esc down too #1 profile, 20 on punch control, dialed about 15% out of the end points and it was about the same speed as the 4x4 slashes(geared at 11 t). We're running on a 45'x65' dirt track indoors very chopped up and in need of a face lift. ( blown out would be closer) Truck was verygood early, but as things got rougher, I started having nose diving problems. The night ended in the semi when I tapped a tube and broke the steering tie rod. As I looked back, (before reading this thread last night) I felt the front droop was a big part of the nose diving thru the rockers and small jumps. Should of moved the front shocks to the bottom outside hole. I ordered about $100 in parts and didn't realize the #40834 wasn't available. Ended up making the piece out of some carbon fiber I had. The front seems pretty good on smoother surfaces but on the really blown out surfaces not so good. My sc 10 (with losi shocks) handled the same surface far better. I did turn the fastest lap of the night by 1.2 seconds. I can't wait to see this new front mod get figured out and available.... oh and the hv is stayin put!
The sleeve reducer for my pinions (3mm shaft) wouldn't allow the set screw
to fully clamp to the shaft and I ended up going to the hv to race last night. Tuned the esc down too #1 profile, 20 on punch control, dialed about 15% out of the end points and it was about the same speed as the 4x4 slashes(geared at 11 t). We're running on a 45'x65' dirt track indoors very chopped up and in need of a face lift. ( blown out would be closer) Truck was verygood early, but as things got rougher, I started having nose diving problems. The night ended in the semi when I tapped a tube and broke the steering tie rod. As I looked back, (before reading this thread last night) I felt the front droop was a big part of the nose diving thru the rockers and small jumps. Should of moved the front shocks to the bottom outside hole. I ordered about $100 in parts and didn't realize the #40834 wasn't available. Ended up making the piece out of some carbon fiber I had. The front seems pretty good on smoother surfaces but on the really blown out surfaces not so good. My sc 10 (with losi shocks) handled the same surface far better. I did turn the fastest lap of the night by 1.2 seconds. I can't wait to see this new front mod get figured out and available.... oh and the hv is stayin put!
02-07-2010, 03:18 PM
#1342
Those settings are fine/personal preference. My previous comment was specific to the MMPro default motor timing default which is 10 degrees. Fine for 4-pole motors, but will cause 2-pole motors (HV series, etc.) to generate heat. Maybe not an issue in short qualies, cold winter ambient temps, etc. Generally speaking, 2-pole motors don't like advanced timing. Castle link supports eliminating this by selecting "lowest" (zero) for the "Motor Timing" setting.
02-07-2010, 05:45 PM
#1343
I've heard of/seen a few Novak HV motors having the magnets separate from the motor shaft. Best thing to do is, if this happens, is repair it yourself. Clean the motor shaft and inside the magnets really good with some acetone, then get some sleeve retainer grade permatex/loctite. Coat the motor shaft/inside the magnets with it and slide them back together. Try to get the magnets back on the same distance from the back end of the shaft as it was originally. Let it set for a few days before putting it back in the motor. Permatex sleeve retainer loctite has a shear strength of something like 60,000 psi, so I doubt it will fail again. And you'd have to heat up to about 500*F to get it apart again.
02-07-2010, 06:42 PM
#1344
Was told to boil the front bumper to prevent it from breaking too easily. Anybody try and for how long? Any other weak spots to warn me about? The only one i've seen up close is driven by a Jammin team member that still runs it the way it came out of the box. Well, + electronics of course!
02-07-2010, 07:00 PM
#1345
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Boil
Was told to boil the front bumper to prevent it from breaking too easily. Anybody try and for how long? Any other weak spots to warn me about? The only one i've seen up close is driven by a Jammin team member that still runs it the way it came out of the box. Well, + electronics of course!
Boil it for about 2 1/2 to 3 mins. Did that to mine on my hyper and it is still in one piece.
02-07-2010, 07:39 PM
#1347
My SCRT will be here in a few days.
Without reading the whole thread, anyone wanna tell me what parts I should have in my toolbox? Sounds like the front bumper. What, like the whole bumper? or just a certain piece of it. I will have my crt.5 with me as backup to strip parts if needs be. Are all the turnbuckles and rods the same size on both cars?
Any help what needs to be sitting in the toolbox would be awesome to know. Thanks!!
Without reading the whole thread, anyone wanna tell me what parts I should have in my toolbox? Sounds like the front bumper. What, like the whole bumper? or just a certain piece of it. I will have my crt.5 with me as backup to strip parts if needs be. Are all the turnbuckles and rods the same size on both cars?
Any help what needs to be sitting in the toolbox would be awesome to know. Thanks!!
02-07-2010, 07:49 PM
#1348
My SCRT will be here in a few days.
Without reading the whole thread, anyone wanna tell me what parts I should have in my toolbox? Sounds like the front bumper. What, like the whole bumper? or just a certain piece of it. I will have my crt.5 with me as backup to strip parts if needs be. Are all the turnbuckles and rods the same size on both cars?
Any help what needs to be sitting in the toolbox would be awesome to know. Thanks!!
Without reading the whole thread, anyone wanna tell me what parts I should have in my toolbox? Sounds like the front bumper. What, like the whole bumper? or just a certain piece of it. I will have my crt.5 with me as backup to strip parts if needs be. Are all the turnbuckles and rods the same size on both cars?
Any help what needs to be sitting in the toolbox would be awesome to know. Thanks!!
02-07-2010, 08:09 PM
#1350