Wease

iTrader: (77)

CRAP, so did I and I got it just yesterday . Oh well, the Jammin screw kit looks pretty good from that I can see in the pack. Although I really like the individual labeled packets from Tony's, they make finding exactly what you need a snap.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Exactly! And Tony's screw quality is second to none. Oh well.

cbrociuos

iTrader: (8)

+1

Wease

iTrader: (77)

Does anyone want the stock tires/wheels from the Jammin kit? I mounted and glued the tires to the wheels and installed the beadlocks. The are masterfully glued if I do say so myself. I ran them for two packs and decided to go with GooseBumps and Calibers on Slash Rulux wheels. They were only run on an indoor clay track, so they are still like new. I can take pictures if anyone likes Make me an offer, any offer and someone can have them.

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

I took the rear tower and installed it on the front after modifying it to fit the upper arm bushings. I used the rear body mount and rear shocks.

However I'm not 100% sure about the geometry that it will now provide as the front upper arms sit lower and shorter than where the front tower placement was. Though what it should do is provide more responsive steering. I'm afraid it might end up too twitchy.

We'll see today as I will be at WCRC tonight.

warpig

iTrader: (7)

Let us know! This would be a big help!

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Did you consider using a turnbuckle as the upper arm in the front? That is what I was planning to do on mine.

Let us know how it works.

gcosio

I'm still waiting for these trucks to come in stock. But while I wait, I wonder if any of you are running your truck without the skid plate. In my experience these skid plates can cause the back end to buck on jumps. Anybody having this problem??

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Haven't had any problems. I use DE skids on all of my 1/8 stuff and never have a problem with those either. The skids really do save the chassis too.

gcosio

Good to know. Thx.

I also have a Novak HV 5.5 on order and I've seen some recommended gearing on it but wonder what the recommended gearing would be with Bow-Ties. With the large difference in diameter I'm sure it would affect gearing. I'm thinking 15T to start. Any thoughts?

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

Front shocks:

Could you just use rear bodies and some limiters to get the desired volume of oil up?

The rear shock tower being placed up front seems interesting. Let me know how that goes.

I'm going to be running my car mostly at an 8th scale track, so I'm already wanting the extra cush and don't even have it yet .

13mm shocks and 8scale wheels:

I'm opposed to this. This is a 1/10 scale car. I bought the SCRT over the SC8 for a reason. But whatever floats your boat people.

Battery tray:

I will be using 3S to keep the heat down. Obviously the car (wheels) can only handle so much power to them. Hyperion makes a 3S 2950 that I think will fit perfect.

nitroexpress

Not an expert by any means. I'm running a 16T with bowtie rear and caliper fronts. Might even try a 17T down the line.

gcosio

How are temps with the 16T?

Shark413

iTrader: (24)

I finally got around to installing the Novak HV 4.5 motor and MMP esc. One question for those that have HV 4.5's are you running the heatsink? Does it need it or does it run cool (with proper gearing) without the heatsink? I could mod the stock heatsink to work or use one of the Integy on-road heatsinks I have laying around, but I like the clean look without a heatsink. Looks like I'll be rained out this weekend so I won't be able to test the new motor/esc setup.

CAK

iTrader: (1)

last lap first 5 min qualifyer truck started acting like LVC was kicking in. Knew this was wierd as I can run 12 minutes easy and the hotest I've seen the motor is 118. Checked the motor and it was at 102. Qualified 2nd non-the-less.

Thought maybe the esc freaked out so I reprogrammed the esc between heats. Truck acted like it was working correctly on pit stand. Half way through the first lap of second qualifyer truck would hardley move on it's own. Sounded like it was diffing out. Took the lid off and inspected. Diff's appeared to be fine. Motor was making a screeching sound and would just spin without the pinion moving when creeping on the throttle. If I hit the gas it would spin some but could be stopped easily (yes, pinion is tight).

Something weird going on with the motor...I suspect the rotor possibly. Will call Novak Monday. Kind of a bummer as this is only the 4th or 5th pack through the Nitrohouse 4.5/Havok Pro combo.