mytwocents

My problem is that my local track currently only runs slashes and 1/8 nitro. I run the slash class but am getting the need for their speed I know enough people are interested in running an additional electric class. I'm a newbie so I need opinions on what would be the best choice for a new class with emphasis placed on durability, ease of maintenance, performance, and price in that order. Since this would be for an existing 1/8 size track I am currently thinking 1/8, brushless, . . . . but after that lots of choices buggy...truggy...monster truck...short course...conversion or not...mmm or tekin... thanks

OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

Im not quite sure what your looking for as an answer. Usually its the majority of what people own, who go to your track, is what they base the classes off of.

I find it odd that they would only have 2 classes.

Your only true option is to talk to the track owner or manager, ask him if he would be willing to run an additional class and to survey what others want to race.

As for your other question

Durability, 8th over 10th,

ease of maintnace 10th 2wd,

performance 8th or 10th 4wd,

price slash.

mytwocents

3 classes - stock slash, novice 1/8 nitro and pro 1/8 nitro, what everyone currently has can not make a class because there are not enough of the same thing, i am looking for an answer of 1.Kind of 1/8 E (buggy, truggy etc) 2.Brand 3.Electronics all based on my preferences mentioned above, sorry maybe too elaborate of a question

Track owner/operator is willing but before we survey I need help formating my opinion

scwrod

iTrader: (2)

You can either adapt to the classes currently running or start some interest in a new class. Maybe a mod/open SC class or 1/8 Electric. Either way you want to make sure if you put a new ride together you will be able to run it. If it is 1/8 Electric it is not cheap to build a reliable, race ready 1/8-E.
1/8-E is a class that is slowly developing in my area but it is a lot of fun. I believe this time next year it will be a common class at most tracks/races.

mytwocents

adapting will not be an option for me with current classes because I do not want to run nitro, price difference not that significant between competitive 1/8 nitro and 1/8e, open sc was a thought, in fact I have a BL slash w/buggy wheels and big bores, fun, but difficult to get the power to the dirt w/2wd

EVILGRAFX

iTrader: (36)

Find out if they'll let you race 1/8 electric with the nitro class. We do it at our track all the time. Just let them know up front that you're not necessarily competing with the rest of the class. Tell them you just want to race with them to have fun. You can have them separate you after all the racing is done. After the nitro guys get a load of much easier it is and eventually eat a plate of electric-whoop-ass, they'll begin to convert.

Then you'll have enough people to run your own class.

Cain

iTrader: (291)

I agree, go 1/8 scale electric and till numbers build up run with nitros. Advise that you will not count towards nitro points, etc. so they don't feel jaded by it. This goes a long way.

Out here, so far what seems to be working well since people have a variety of chassis out there we do 1/10 2wd open (fits stadiums, buggies, SCs, etc) and then 1/8 buggy open to nitro and electrics with certain rules for electrics. same with truggies when available (no one here runs electric truggy at this time).

You will get the benefits of a 1/8 durability and ease of electrics if you do 1/8 electric.

As for motor and battery options, first decide on what vehicle you want as you may find a different motor gearing option that works better with a certain KV range than others. In general, KVs in the 1900 - 2200Kv range work well on 4S in most 1/8 electrics. Vehicles like the Hyper 9E would do better with a lower KV motor, say a 1900Kv so you have more gearing range.

Very good options right now out there for electronics and vehicle choices.

jmcvicker

iTrader: (2)

If you end up running 1/8 elec. with Nitros for long mains (20-30 minutes) you want to go with a motor that will take the length of race along with batteries that will last too. Consider one of the following:

2000-2200+KV motor with two 3S1P LiPos in parallel -or-
1100KV motor with one 6S1P battery

The mAh for above can be 5000mAh or 6000mAh (or bigger). Two 3S1P 5000mAh wired in parallel is close to 10000mAh in terms of runtime. Ease of wiring and charging for a single 6S1P would lead me to go with 1100 to 1300KV type motor. Either that or be prepared to pit and change LiPos to make the end of the longer races. Imagine going 22 minutes into a 30-minute main and then needing a battery change to finish.

Either should be fine performance wise to keep up with the Nitros - and should last through long mains.

vannon

iTrader: (6)

How would you wire in parellel? Is there an adapter to hook up 2 - 3s packs off the shelf? or is there more to it as far as connections?

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

There's stuff off shelf - either parallel or series thats available. This is an example of one thats available -

http://www.maxamps.com/Deans-Parallel-Adapter-16.htm

jmcvicker

iTrader: (2)

That's one - but I won't use a 16ga wire. Here's a better one for any application.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNKY8

Basically - with parallel, you "halve" the current draw between the two batteries. You end up with a 10,000mAh 3S in a 2P configuration by using two 5000mAh 3S1P. So, a hot motor will not make your batteries hot - if you pull 30C now from batteries, you'll pull 15C each from two in parallel.

mytwocents

thanks for all the help . . . first post here, was worried at first but all questions answered . . . thanks again