foamslayer

iTrader: (3)

Threw out the MIP ball diff and put the gear diff back in. Tried contacting Matt at MIP about it and can't even get an answer to my problem. No more MIP products for me anymore.

EskimoGangsta

iTrader: (1)

Ball diffs are finicky. you really HAVE to build them spot on. or was your problem with the dogbones not fitting? i ran into that problem when i ran 0Deg blocks in the rear. i had to buy Associated universals and had to change the bearings and oh god that was a mess lol. Now i just run whatever is in the truck. i'm to lazy to mix and match parts to get the truck how i want it to be. settling is much better :P

EskimoGangsta

iTrader: (1)

^^ also which is why i went back to the OLD dogbone - gear diff setup lmao.

theblitzkidd

iTrader: (11)

Roger that...I never had any luck with the other dog bones or difs.....since I went back to the stock stuff I have had not 1problemo.

foamslayer

iTrader: (3)

I would have liked to at least try it but thier cs sucks. Can't get them to answer any questions lol.

dracy69

iTrader: (5)

I just lost my MIP diff tonight after 3 race nights (9 heats 3 mains). It isn't slipping but it is very gritty. I didn't build this one I bought my truck second hand from a guy who assembled it brand new then sold it . I'll rebuild it myself and see if I have any better luck.

Might as well buy a gear diff and leave it in the tool box just in case.

tksnobords

iTrader: (36)

i found the stock gearing. 18/88. i am putting a viper 1900kv motor with a mamba max pro ESC. i am going to be running on a small indoor track...what do you guys think i should for a pinion?

edit: i finally found some posts in here regarding the pinions...looks like guys are going with a mid to upper 20's pinion

this is a video of the track, but not the current layout...but the current layout is very similar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZQHcNgGeJg

tksnobords

iTrader: (36)

hey guys. i bought a used blitz rtr. (black chassis). the guy i got it from said its good to go for brushless, but i heard sometimes the trucks that are originally brushed run different gear ratio's than the brushless ones. do i need to check or change anything to run this truck brushless? like my post above...i have a mamba max pro and a viper 1900kv motor with 2S batteries

LunchboX3904

iTrader: (8)

You should always assume you'll be changing gearing with a different motor. Also, with that motor (17.5 turn) you'll have to gear it up to get the most out of it. You'll probably be in the range of a 25-28 tooth pinion with the 78 tooth spur gear, but check with a thermometer to verify the motor and esc are within safe temps.

Scottypiper

Real quick question that I need answered asap...

what kind of battery connections does the newest Blitz version have? Not the brushless flux...but the regular brushed version. Thanks.

ratrod0

Whats the best shocks to use on my blitz

tksnobords

iTrader: (36)

+1

tksnobords

iTrader: (36)

so i havent had a chance to read all 105 pages of this thread yet, but i will. what mods have you guys done to your blitz's? any mods i should stay away from? so far i have read about guys shaving something down to increase steering throw and guys tightening down the servo saver all the way....

Blacktiger355

iTrader: (81)

A good strong servo and tighten the servo saver and it should be good for steering. And if it is an older blitz, check and see if it still has the small bearings in the rear hubs. The stock rtr Blitz uses 5x10's in the rear hubs and they wear our real fast. The ESE version has upgraded 5x11 bearings. Also RPM makes some for the blitz with the larger bearing. Worth the upgrade for sure. The Blitz is a pretty tough truck. So just drive it for a bit and see how it does for you.

foamslayer

iTrader: (3)

I didn't shave my a arms down. Doesn't make sense to weaken a vital part when all you gotta do is shim up the ball stud.