5Likes*****YOKOMO BMAX 4*****
04-21-2015, 04:59 PM
#2327
The body is thin because as a carpet/turf car, it's a very easy way to lower the CoG. In fact, I found the car to immediately get tipsy on the other bodies available for it. I'm not going to say it's a special material as I can't verify that but in 25+ race days since I built the car last fall, it has a small crack behind the front body post and that's it. The part# for the thicker Yoke body is B4-101H and it's been out for a while but I don't think a-main is even going to import it. One of the "hot" things to do with the YZ-2 is buy the thinner body like what this comes with.
At my local track it's Friday night carpet as our closest dirt track is 2 hours away in the winter, and since it's Friday they open at 5 racing starts at 6:30. Basically everyone practices at once, everything from Spec Slash to 4wd SCT to 2wd 17.5 and 4wd Buggy, and my cars have taken a beating.
My stock BMax4 body has been pounded so hard you can see the motor mount shape depressed in it from the inside out, and it's still not cracked.
I'll admit it's not as tough as the HD thickness one, however it's a representation of what this car is. It has EVERYTHING in the box to compete.
If this was a 22-4 or 44.3 you have to spend hundreds of dollars more to fix their issues.
04-21-2015, 05:03 PM
#2328
haha, the 22-4 and b44.3 were never even given consideration. We dont have a hack fest in practice. we just have pipes and pipe nails. Trust me, I cant wait for saturday to get on the track. the car is a sexy machine.
why does no one seem to run the center gear covers? heat? seems like protecting the electronics would be great. I loved that featured when I was eyeing the car.
why does no one seem to run the center gear covers? heat? seems like protecting the electronics would be great. I loved that featured when I was eyeing the car.
04-21-2015, 05:14 PM
#2329
To change castor you change the c-hubs.
Kick-up is the same as the angle that is bent on the chassis, if you lean the front bulkhead back, it's more kickup and tends to jump and land a little easier, but sacrifices steering and reaponsivness. Lean it forward and it will handle more like a sedan, more responsive but it will be much more sensitive to jumping and rough sections.
If you want, you can run the inner hinge pins farther in to narrow the front end OR run 2wd front wheels and be the same width as stock with the hinge pins out and 4wd wheels. 3 different front width setups, all with pluses and minuses.
The good and bad of this car is that it has SO much adjustability that you can get yourself lost real quick. But once dialed in, this car is very, very good. Low grip or high grip.
04-21-2015, 05:19 PM
#2330
This setting is not for caster, it changes kick-up (angle of the arm movement in relationship to square), front width, and front roll center.
To change castor you change the c-hubs.
Kick-up is the same as the angle that is bent on the chassis, if you lean the front bulkhead back, it's more kickup and tends to jump and land a little easier, but sacrifices steering and reaponsivness. Lean it forward and it will handle more like a sedan, more responsive but it will be much more sensitive to jumping and rough sections.
If you want, you can run the inner hinge pins farther in to narrow the front end OR run 2wd front wheels and be the same width as stock with the hinge pins out and 4wd wheels. 3 different front width setups, all with pluses and minuses.
The good and bad of this car is that it has SO much adjustability that you can get yourself lost real quick. But once dialed in, this car is very, very good. Low grip or high grip.
To change castor you change the c-hubs.
Kick-up is the same as the angle that is bent on the chassis, if you lean the front bulkhead back, it's more kickup and tends to jump and land a little easier, but sacrifices steering and reaponsivness. Lean it forward and it will handle more like a sedan, more responsive but it will be much more sensitive to jumping and rough sections.
If you want, you can run the inner hinge pins farther in to narrow the front end OR run 2wd front wheels and be the same width as stock with the hinge pins out and 4wd wheels. 3 different front width setups, all with pluses and minuses.
The good and bad of this car is that it has SO much adjustability that you can get yourself lost real quick. But once dialed in, this car is very, very good. Low grip or high grip.
04-22-2015, 01:08 AM
#2332
I think I got my front set from futaba pro shop, even banzai hobby is out of stock of Yokomo parts. It's like that site doesn't bother anymore.
Not all run the gear cover removed... Though it's easy to think. many probably run carpet, Astro
04-22-2015, 02:15 PM
#2334
I actually have my capacitor sitting on the spur cover for outdoor... Then again I don't race competitively
04-22-2015, 06:19 PM
#2335
Tech Adept
I decided to get one, just finished the build. No missing parts, everything went together great, awesome quality on the parts. Instructions need to be upgraded, it is nice that they include all parts old and new, but it can get a bit confusing figuring out what was from the original kit vs what is the upgrade. That being said, for me it was not a big deal, just looked at the diagram or pics from finished cars and figured it out easily enough. Only have to install electronics and will be ready to roll.
Question, car seems to have quite a bit of bump steer on the bench, is this normal on this car?,, or should I add a shim or two somewhere on the steering?.. thanks.
Question, car seems to have quite a bit of bump steer on the bench, is this normal on this car?,, or should I add a shim or two somewhere on the steering?.. thanks.
04-22-2015, 06:29 PM
#2336
I decided to get one, just finished the build. No missing parts, everything went together great, awesome quality on the parts. Instructions need to be upgraded, it is nice that they include all parts old and new, but it can get a bit confusing figuring out what was from the original kit vs what is the upgrade. That being said, for me it was not a big deal, just looked at the diagram or pics from finished cars and figured it out easily enough. Only have to install electronics and will be ready to roll.
Question, car seems to have quite a bit of bump steer on the bench, is this normal on this car?,, or should I add a shim or two somewhere on the steering?.. thanks.
Question, car seems to have quite a bit of bump steer on the bench, is this normal on this car?,, or should I add a shim or two somewhere on the steering?.. thanks.
04-25-2015, 10:06 PM
#2337
first outing... cracked front tower, 2 broken arms, 2 bent hinge pins, 1 bent ballstud and 3 ball cups popped off. that is more broken 4wd parts than I have had in a year, lol. on the upside the car handles great. very nimble corners awesome. could use a bit more rear bite. I ordered some yz4 rear arms to try out with the +6mm rear hexes and yz2 bones. I was really struggling with one jump section, and the car was taking a beating. so i plan to shrug this off and run a better track next weekend. the car is more durable than a b44 and 22-4, but seems less so than an xray, teamc or d414
04-26-2015, 02:09 AM
#2338
Never have I heard anyone break so much on their first go haha. I came off a jump and landed onto incoming traffic into an associated truggy, they broke an arm but I came off fine. Felt bad for the guy
04-26-2015, 07:58 AM
#2340
nah, 10.5 25/84 gearing. the 22-4 jumped the pipe and it was a high speed head on crash. unavoidable. that crash broke the tower, arm and a hinge pin. the last arms broke going over an off camber double where I clipped the pipe. they way it broke, makes me thing the plastics are soft. the pin was pulled through the plastic, but no plastic broke off. the car drives great. i just need to dodge 22-4s better. also, the ball studs seem like crap. I replace the ones in the rear hubs with AE studs and cups. I was definitely faster in the tight corners than the other wheelers. the car turns on a dime.