Team Associated B4
#16
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Slash it up - definitely listen to the answers here in terms of motor. In fact, you probably shouldn't buy anything until going into the shop/track, talking with the guys who run the racing, find out the class(es) available and consider motor choices. When you "start racing at a track" - you need to at least know what classes are available and what kind of setups are good there. If your first question is a concern (what breaks more) - maybe also consider the T4 as they tend to be a little more forgiving and some tracks have a "Mod" class which would allow you to use your 5700 that you say you already have.
Measure twice, cut once.
Measure twice, cut once.
#19
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Like someone said in the LIR thread. Come down to LIR to purchase your car and one of the fast AE guys would be more than happy to help you get your stuff dialed in.
#22
would it be better to purchase it at my LHS because i know them there and they give me deals and i have a friend that works at my LHS that is going to give me his spare stuff wheels shocks and other things but everyone has been telling me to purchase it at the LIR is it better to support the track than go to my LHS?
#23
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
There is no "golden rule" to only buy the cars you race at the race track you race at. You can buy your spare parts, broken part replacements and tires at the track you race to support them. Your LHS is also an important shop to help out. Now, if the LHS is giving you stuff at-cost or at discounts, though, is that really helping them out much?
If you haven't yet raced at LIR, don't worry about where you buy your initial stuff. But when you're there, make sure that they know you'll be there racing and hanging out and maybe buying stuff. You don't buy friends, you earn them. Lots of sponsored drivers don't buy much at all from the tracks they race at (keep that in mind) but they're there every week racing 1-2 or 3 classes (thus helping out by paying entry fees).
If you haven't yet raced at LIR, don't worry about where you buy your initial stuff. But when you're there, make sure that they know you'll be there racing and hanging out and maybe buying stuff. You don't buy friends, you earn them. Lots of sponsored drivers don't buy much at all from the tracks they race at (keep that in mind) but they're there every week racing 1-2 or 3 classes (thus helping out by paying entry fees).
#29
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (520)
Plastic chassis seems like the way to go, it flexes more and offers more forward bite and some handling forgiveness. I cant speak for your local track, being up here in Minnesota. IMO, aluminum bulkheads (arm mounts) frt and rr is ok, but arms seem chunky and restrictive. Ae sells the fr pivots, rear pivots can be found from Chedda bob here on RCtech. I have had a B4 for a while now and have only broken a trailing arm, but I have been indoors on a tight track and top speed was low. Speed crashes can wreak havoc. If you are new, dont jump in w/ the big boys till you have learned the ropes, it may be a frustrating and costly learning experience. The B4 is a good car, turns great, jumps good and is pretty easy to drive. Pay attention when building shocks, so that they are the same left to right, and it will be very fun to drive..Have fun