Body Post Location Dimples
 

I asked the AE Product Managers to confirm the Body Mount Dimple location indicators today. My body is off getting race paint so I couldn't confirm.

I received the following response to share with you as you build.

"The rear posts and mount are very flexible… which means if the part has some warp to it, you could appear to be out of alignment to the location dimples

We checked and the holes are maybe 1-2mm off. With the round body posts and flexible body mount, it hasn’t been a problem at all for body mounting. They usually drop right on."


Hope that helps everyone as you prepare to mount your painted SC10 Bodies.

JD

I went ahead and slotted my rear mounting holes a little (front to rear), and it made mounting a little smoother/easier and allows for little give in case of the inevitable crashes or getting on its roof so as to take some stress off the body and the mounts. :D

just wondering and did not see if anyone asked. if there will be a conversion kit from the T4 to this truck. They look the same with most of there parts. The price is a good for the truck anyway, but just asking.

thanks

I saw that question asked the other day, ftfl99.

Someone did some research and came back with about $170 in parts.

So, it's probably better to buy new.

ok, thanks groundhogg. did not see it. hard to work and read this thread at the same time. lol. thanks for the info..

Kinda new to off-road
Looking at the build instructions. (haven't started building it yet)
The gear diff calls for black grease but looks to be well sealed. Would it be better to use a #3000 or #5000 diff lube?

Yes it would be better to use silcon oil than grease. It wont break down like the grease will. Plus the silcon is very repeatable and easy to make adjustments.

DK

We have found that this diff gives the most traction when using grease. It seals well and can be adjusted with oil but I would start with grease and play with light oil to start.

I have to call the LHS in a little bit. They only had one of their two cases showing up so he is calling the people on the list to see if they want theirs today or not if they don't he is passing them up. 2 more people to call and if one is left after them I get one. WOOT

Most of the guys that have run oil liked between 20 and 40 wt shock oil so far. Will keep you posted.

Hey Rick,

We were using 30,000 sil. diff lube in the Slash. I was thinking of using it in the SC10 when I start building tonight. What's your thought? to thick? We run on a small indoor hard clay were slicks work the best.

Just finished building mine! Can't wait for some WOT action. Only one hick-up Orion batts wont fit because the batt strap is in the way:cry:. I could cut part of the strap but I'm a little afraid of making it too weak. Any thought anyone?

Picked one of these up at the LHS (for those of you in St. Louis I believe Mark Twain Hobbies has a couple more in stock). I've almost got the full front end built so far :) Quick question, how freely should the steering setup move ? There is a tiny tiny bit of friction in the steering and I just wondered if this was normal since the parts haven't been broken in yet (as opposed to my T4 where there is no friction whatsoever). Thanks,

Doug

just picked one up today gonna build it tonite. great site.

Has anyone from this forum ran a SC10 yet? also I'm curious about the SC10s gear diff vs T4's ball diff and what one seems to run better. I'd like to convert my FT T4 to a SC10 and get a SC10 kit and set them both up the same and see what works better.